B&O 10" sub replacement guide

[ChipG]

Ok, so I did this install last weekend. Everything went well, thanks to all for the useful information. For those who want another step by step, here's what I did:

After removing the trim ring (and yes, it cracked despite carefully working around with trim removal tools, and 3 of the plastic retaining pins broke as well), grille, and stock subwoofer, I was able to depin the connectors. I also stuffed the enclosure with about 6oz of Polyfil (stolen from an old throw pillow).

I then decided I didn't want to modify the enclosure, I would modify the Pioneer subwoofer instead. So first I used a dremel to cut a relief for the plastic pin at the top of the enclosure.

Then I cut the mounting holes, removing enough of the edge for the grille to mount flush, but leaving as much metal around the original hole as possible to give the screws some clamping surface.

A test fit of the grille to the speaker and we're good to go (and yeah, the parts on the bench were for the brake work this weekend)!

Close up of the fit.

I ran the foam tape on the enclosure, wired the connectors, then fitted the speaker.

Stock screws through the stock grille in all holes, and everything fit perfect. I was also able to recover and glue back on all 3 broken plastic retaining clips.

I repaired the trim ring as well - just one crack at the bottom, not even noticeable. Replaced the ring and done!

While working on the sound system, I also clipped the green wire for the center speaker.

Result, sound is much improved. The bass is still a little boomier than I would like (due to the inability to customize crossover for the interior speakers, I'm guessing) but much better than the muddy mess from the stock subwoofer. Removing the center speaker also cleaned up the mids/highs. Overall, good results for under $100, not bad.

Chip

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[drummerboy]

Hey, nice writeup. Wondering if you can describe the improvement a little more. Some days I love that it sounds so much better than any other factory system, other days I just absolutely hate how loose and just generally terrible the bass is. It's like... there's bass there... with no intention. Just droning bassy sound. To be honest I turn it on maybe 1% of the time, but I might turn it on more if the sub sounded good. Does it sound good now? Tighter?

 

[Matthewstorm]

Hey, nice writeup. Wondering if you can describe the improvement a little more. Some days I love that it sounds so much better than any other factory system, other days I just absolutely hate how loose and just generally terrible the bass is. It's like... there's bass there... with no intention. Just droning bassy sound. To be honest I turn it on maybe 1% of the time, but I might turn it on more if the sub sounded good. Does it sound good now? Tighter?

You can turn off the sub?

 

[Gregs24]

Hey, nice writeup. Wondering if you can describe the improvement a little more. Some days I love that it sounds so much better than any other factory system, other days I just absolutely hate how loose and just generally terrible the bass is. It's like... there's bass there... with no intention. Just droning bassy sound. To be honest I turn it on maybe 1% of the time, but I might turn it on more if the sub sounded good. Does it sound good now? Tighter?

If you still have the stock sub fitting the Pioneer is night and day better. I really struggled to listen to the OEM system, but since I changed the sub I listen all of the time. The main difference is the bass has become tuneful rather than muddy and overwhelming. It is nothing to do with how much bass (I think the Pioneer gives more bass) but how controlled it is. Bass should not just be a tuneless boom.

My car is a daily driver so the sound system has to work properly. It is such a simple swap there really isn't any reason not to do it !

 

[Gregs24]

You can turn off the sub?

I think he means he only listens to the ICE for 1% of the time. No you cannot turn off the sub.

 

[RasJeremy]

I can see that sadly too many experiences that frame and/or the tabs breaks.
Don't know if this photo series can help others in the future but hope so!

Here you can see how the tabs are pushed in to the frame. I found the best way to start was to look at it as a watch and start with the 3 and 9 positions since the frame has a bigger gab and it is easier to get into.

I don't have any fancy trim removal tools so I used 2 flat head screwdrivers - one to apply pressure upwards while using the other (a rather thin one) to poke the pin towards the center.

The pin is split in 2 and the outer one has an edge to catch onto the frame - this is the part that should be pushed towards the center

In the picture I have the Pioneer replacement speaker underneath - again I didn't have any fancy tools for metal work so I cut out the wholes with a metal cutting scissors and bent the frame down with a flat nose pliers.

I hope that helps out some people in the future

 

[drummerboy]

You can turn off the sub?

The radio

 

[Matthewstorm]

The radio

Oh. Duh.

 

[ChipG]

Hey, nice writeup. Wondering if you can describe the improvement a little more. Some days I love that it sounds so much better than any other factory system, other days I just absolutely hate how loose and just generally terrible the bass is. It's like... there's bass there... with no intention. Just droning bassy sound. To be honest I turn it on maybe 1% of the time, but I might turn it on more if the sub sounded good. Does it sound good now? Tighter?

Yes, tighter and punchier bass with less "slop" - not as much midbass droning. It still has more than I'd like (I'd like to block more midbass from the interior speakers) but it's better. It's sad that a simple homebuilt system in my '95 F-250 still sounds better I still tend to balance it with bass turned a couple of clicks away from all the way down, but I've reduced the boost I've given the mid and treble bars. It's nice to hear/feel a more discrete "hit" from the bass rather than the muddy rolling thunder of the stock setup.

All in all, not a complete cure, but good improvement for a very reasonable investment of time and money.

 

[ChipG]

I can see that sadly too many experiences that frame and/or the tabs breaks.
Don't know if this photo series can help others in the future but hope so!

Here you can see how the tabs are pushed in to the frame. I found the best way to start was to look at it as a watch and start with the 3 and 9 positions since the frame has a bigger gab and it is easier to get into.

I don't have any fancy trim removal tools so I used 2 flat head screwdrivers - one to apply pressure upwards while using the other (a rather thin one) to poke the pin towards the center.

The pin is split in 2 and the outer one has an edge to catch onto the frame - this is the part that should be pushed towards the center

In the picture I have the Pioneer replacement speaker underneath - again I didn't have any fancy tools for metal work so I cut out the wholes with a metal cutting scissors and bent the frame down with a flat nose pliers.

I hope that helps out some people in the future

How did you get the grille off as a unit with the trim ring? The issue I had was I had to remove the trim ring to get to the screws to remove the grille and speaker. I had no access as you're showing in the pictures or I'd have been quite happy with the tip!

 

[RasJeremy]

How did you get the grille off as a unit with the trim ring?

Oh I didn't! Sorry I didn't mention that.

I had the same issue as you with little to no space to get underneath the trim ring. I had to get that trim off to get access to the screws to get out the grill. This is why I mentioned starting at 3 and 9 positions because there was more room for prying it up - also using rather thin screwdrivers.

The pictures provided with the grill and trim are just to show how I did
I hope that clears it up.

 

[ChipG]

Oh I didn't! Sorry I didn't mention that.

I had the same issue as you with little to no space to get underneath the trim ring. I had to get that trim off to get access to the screws to get out the grill. This is why I mentioned starting at 3 and 9 positions because there was more room for prying it up - also using rather thin screwdrivers.

The pictures provided with the grill and trim are just to show how I did
I hope that clears it up.

Ah, understood - you were just giving a visual to show what you were doing with the parts mounted. Hope that helps the next one to try this!

 

[Pero]

Ok, so I did this install last weekend. Everything went well, thanks to all for the useful information. For those who want another step by step, here's what I did:

Can you tell us please, which wire here is positive [+] and which negative [-] for each coil?

 

[RasJeremy]

Can you tell us please, which wire here is positive [+] and which negative [-] for each coil?

Exactly that has been pointed out in the very first post in this thread along with a picture of the wires

 

[ChipG]

Exactly that has been pointed out in the very first post in this thread along with a picture of the wires

Yup! Each of the pairs in this photo has one positive, one negative wire.

In the left pair, the black wire is negative, the green is positive. In the right pair, the purple is negative and the yellow is positive. Use one pair for each set of terminals on the Pioneer sub.

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