Had enough of aftermarket CAI & HIGH IAT's. So here's my fix.

[Htk084]

I wish someone would test it. The 15-17’s made good power and those were no tune required too

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[AZ18yote]

I wish someone would test it. The 15-17’s made good power and those were no tune required too

Keep in mind the large improvement in OEM intake from the 15-17 up to the 18+.

 

[Htk084]

Keep in mind the large improvement in OEM intake from the 15-17 up to the 18+.

yeah that’s true but proportionally aftermarket intakes have gotten bigger for the 18s as well

 

[Mustangpursuit]

Ok thanks for the info.. I'll just stick to there suspension components.

I did like my Steeda Fusion 3.5L CAI they had and used a Steeda 87 Octane no insert tune.... on a FWD version and caused the wheels to spin in 1st and 2nd gear if I went WOT from a dig.... had to put insert back and run with insert tune and keep it more conservative, I ran it for years with insert so I could easily flash back and forth to stock for dealer service, seems Steeda hardly makes non-tune CAI for most applications anymore. It was a metal housing so it got hot to the touch if I touched it after driving a while though. I would have expected Steeda to revise quickly and make things better for the issues especially for the Mustang since that is a larger consumer market for them than Fusions.

 

[jmeiers]

I run both the Steeda and 18+ JLT on my ported CJ setup and it runs like a raped ape on E85 on both setups. With that said, when comparing side-by-side, the 18+ top lid to the Steeda, it's easy to see why the MAF has turbulence issues. The 18+ has a smooth entry all the way around after the air leaves the filter and enters the MAF tube. The Steeda is not smooth at all, especially with the insert in place. There are huge pocket areas where the incoming air can go under the insert instead of all of it smoothly going into the MAF tube. Also, the way they made the insert sleeve is not the best idea either because it is slotted almost all the way thru so it can slide over the MAF itself but I don't see why they designed the sleeve this way because the MAF is slotted. They should have just made it a perfectly cut hole in the sleeve with just enough room for the MAF to pass thru after the sleeve is inserted.

Anyway, I have ideas on how to possibly correct the MAF turbulence issues. Use epoxy or something similar to fill in all the areas around the MAF insert sleeve and backfill it all the way back to the filter. Then smooth it all out so the air can go smoothly into the sleeve and nowhere else. Also, maybe Steeda makes the insert sleeves before cutting out any slots or holes in them, so I could make a hole in the sleeve just big enough for only the MAF to pass thru.

 

[Biggsy]

I fixed mine a while back. Works pretty well. Post #32 https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/jlt-cover.32895/page-3#post-2597682

did you notice any flex in your hood? I did this with a pool noodles and I guess it was too closer to the hood causing it to flex so I took it off

 

[zero_chance]

So after trying everything to combat high IAT's with aftermarket CAI's (cai.. haha), and not wanted to spend more moolah on another close box CAI (like airaid) I decided to modify what I had. So his is what I did.. JLT elbow (shortened to right before the MAF housing), rubber coupler, stock 17 box, K&N drop in, removed the forward silencer, removed the charcoal filter, sanded & contoured the inside of the lid Works pretty fricken awesome. Always within 5c of ambient when cruising, idling today (27°c ambient, in never climbed above 36°c (97°f). That's just 9°c increase, awesome. Better than the conical air filter JLT CAI including 17 thousands different ways to keep the heat out. The plastic JLT tub was just to thin and heat soak was crazy, took forever to cool down once moving as well, likely cause the air coming in from the grill goes under the conical filter, hits the back of the box, goes up, then finds its way out the hood vent, gap between the JLT box and fender, etc,. etc. Raced a couple of my favorite targets last night, I'd say it's making more power. Quite a bit more actually. I'm thoroughly convinced it's the ELBOW that's responsible for making power, and the straight shot of airflow past the MAF from the stock lid, plus the K&N drop in is a proven 5-6 hp gain. Same tune, just redid the MAF scaling for the stock housing. So, lower IAT's, better throttle response, and at the much more horsepower than the stock setup. Follow me for more redneck recipes. Cheers.

FYI OEM tune won’t give two shits until you’re 150+ degreees at speed. The “IAT” is reading from the MAF and if you’re throttle is closed you’re gonna get whack temp readings. Pull a log and check to see if timing is being pulled. Chances are it’s probably not.

 

[vanquishvzla]

anybody know if the 1318-9643HC cover from roush is somewhat adaptable to the JLT box??? i really regret selling my airaid elbow with the k&n drop in for the JLT...

 

[Htk084]

anybody know if the 1318-9643HC cover from roush is somewhat adaptable to the JLT box??? i really regret selling my airaid elbow with the k&n drop in for the JLT...

how come exactly? I was wondering about the Roush cover myself but it apparently doesn’t even do well to protect from heat on the Roush intake so would love to know more too

 

[Mustangpursuit]

how come exactly? I was wondering about the Roush cover myself but it apparently doesn’t even do well to protect from heat on the Roush intake so would love to know more too

It is an ok CAI which does well at higher moving speeds vs local driving, some do put insulation tape around the insert gap with the tub and some on the lid and it works decent.

 

[Dfeeds]

The next step is to figure out how to cool the incoming air on the hot summer days. Something like using the A/C condensor to have ice cold fins along intake path to cool down the incoming air. I just can't think of a way that would have a fast enough heat transfer and be efficient enough to be worth it at all.

 

[vanquishvzla]

how come exactly? I was wondering about the Roush cover myself but it apparently doesn’t even do well to protect from heat on the Roush intake so would love to know more too

that sucks... i was thinking maybe something DIY, adapting the cover to the JLT box...

yesterday i just went to lowe's and bought this:

just to try that option for now... it was only $7

 

[IamCDNJosh]

FYI OEM tune won’t give two shits until you’re 150+ degreees at speed. The “IAT” is reading from the MAF and if you’re throttle is closed you’re gonna get whack temp readings. Pull a log and check to see if timing is being pulled. Chances are it’s probably not.

Exactly, I'd love to see the data if any of these garage engineered solutions actually yield any actual results.

 

[IamCDNJosh]

Likely due to the fact that on a dyno the vehicle is stationary. In the absence of an air tunnel that could dynamically adjust to the wheel speed of the car it would be near impossible to replicate actual driving conditions. Hood up is about the next best and most economical option.

Too many variables for 1/4 mile times in which you can't control.

Again I believe you're chasing a non-existent problem.

 

[Eritas]

But my hot air intake looks so much cooler than your ugly box.

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