2019 Bullitt Mustang Break-In and Oil Change

[rcl4668]

Hello! I will be getting my 2019 Bullitt Mustang delivered in roughly a week and had some questions about break in and oil changes. I assume that this would apply for any 2015-2019 5.0 Coyote Mustang GT:

First, what is the recommended engine break-in procedure? On p 202 of the 2019 owners manual it says only:

“Avoid driving too fast during the first 1,000 mi (1,500 km). Vary your speed frequently and change up through the gears early. Do not labor the engine.”

The dealer I purchased the car from added that I should not drive it too hard (above say 5k rpms) and do not keep it at a particular speed for long periods of time (IE cruise control at 70mph for a 2 hour trip.) They suggested around town and spirited back roads driving for the first 500 or so miles before you start leaving it at a set speed on the highway. I checked the forums here and I have seen some folks say they limited revs to 4500 rpm during the break-in period.

Any other recommendations for breaking in this engine for maximum power and longevity? Should the engine be babied or should it be revved and pushed a bit? And is there a consensus on what rev limit to impose during break-in?

Next, regarding oil and oil changes, I plan on having my local Ford dealer perform a preventative oil and filter change at approximately 1,800 miles using the 5w20 Synthetic Blend to remove contaminants from the 1,000 mile break in period. At 5,000 miles I will have the dealer perform another oil/filter change and switch over to the Motorcraft 5w20 full synthetic. I know, this may be overkill, but I am in the habit of doing frequent oil/filter changes for SCCA, NASA road racing and track days and I assume I would not be doing the engine harm by doing this. (And no, I do not have plans to track this car.)

Finally, I also plan to do at home oil and filter changes every other oil change at 2,500 mile intervals. The manual says to use 10 quarts or 9.5 L of 5w20. My local dealer recommended putting in nine quarts without checking the dipstick and then slowly add more oil from 10th quart until dipstick is at full mark by checking the dipstick at intervals. Does this sound right?

Thanks in advance for any feedback you can provide. I really appreciate it!

/Rich

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[Schwerin]

You will get 100000 replies and no way to verify that any of them are correct.

 

[CAL Captain]

Hello! I will be getting my 2019 Bullitt Mustang delivered in roughly a week and had some questions about break in and oil changes. I assume that this would apply for any 2015-2019 5.0 Coyote Mustang GT:

First, what is the recommended engine break-in procedure? On p 202 of the 2019 owners manual it says only:

“Avoid driving too fast during the first 1,000 mi (1,500 km). Vary your speed frequently and change up through the gears early. Do not labor the engine.”

The dealer I purchased the car from added that I should not drive it too hard (above say 5k rpms) and do not keep it at a particular speed for long periods of time (IE cruise control at 70mph for a 2 hour trip.) They suggested around town and spirited back roads driving for the first 500 or so miles before you start leaving it at a set speed on the highway. I checked the forums here and I have seen some folks say they limited revs to 4500 rpm during the break-in period.

Any other recommendations for breaking in this engine for maximum power and longevity? Should the engine be babied or should it be revved and pushed a bit? And is there a consensus on what rev limit to impose during break-in?

Next, regarding oil and oil changes, I plan on having my local Ford dealer perform a preventative oil and filter change at approximately 1,800 miles using the 5w20 Synthetic Blend to remove contaminants from the 1,000 mile break in period. At 5,000 miles I will have the dealer perform another oil/filter change and switch over to the Motorcraft 5w20 full synthetic. I know, this may be overkill, but I am in the habit of doing frequent oil/filter changes for SCCA, NASA road racing and track days and I assume I would not be doing the engine harm by doing this. (And no, I do not have plans to track this car.)

Finally, I also plan to do at home oil and filter changes every other oil change at 2,500 mile intervals. The manual says to use 10 quarts or 9.5 L of 5w20. My local dealer recommended putting in nine quarts without checking the dipstick and then slowly add more oil from 10th quart until dipstick is at full mark by checking the dipstick at intervals. Does this sound right?

Thanks in advance for any feedback you can provide. I really appreciate it!

/Rich

I'm fairly new here, too.

As the first responder noted, you will get approximately 3,000,000 replies, each one containing ancient Chinese secret to change oil and filter.

Since no one's car has yet exploded from any of these methods, all of them are correct enough for Mustang work. Except, maybe, for the one that goes: 1) Drain oil 2) Replace drain plug 3) Drive next 10,000 miles on rev-limiter.

 

[Bullitt0819]

This one stirred up a lot of fuss on the Healey forum (sorry if it's old news here):

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

 

[CAL Captain]

This one stirred up a lot of fuss on the Healey forum (sorry if it's old news here):

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

Huh... is this guy an Amsoil distributor or is Amsoil that good?

 

[BrettT]

You are going to get everything from baby it to Drive it like you stole it.

Do what makes you comfortable. For me it was as always varying engine speed, kept it under 4,500 rpm, hit 5K a couple of times, minimize cruising. Lots of gear changes and varying speed. I was probably at 1100-1200 miles when I redlined it.. This is what I feel is right, but other will say otherwise. Have 2,500+ KM (1,500 miles) on it right now, not doing much driving as it is a fair weather car. Plan on first oil change in April, and will put Castrol Edge 5W20 (supply my own) this time. Will talk to my service advisor at Ford, as I would like to go with Edge Extended Performance 5W30 for all other oil changes. It can get pretty hot in the interior where it will do a lot of is spirited driving, and thinking 20 weight oil is a little light. Not sure whether one or two oil change per year, as don't expect to do much over 5,000km (3,000 Miles) per year, but will play it by ear. Will probably do more this this summer because it is still new to me.

Your in the same climate as me, so it doesn't get overly cold in the winter...

The other thing is gas, will only put Chevron 94 in it. It's actually not much more than 91.

This is what works for me...but as I said you will getting completely contrarian views from others.....

Enjoy your new "baby" when you get it...It's definitely a "feel good" car......

 

[rcl4668]

Thanks for the feedback thus far everyone!

 

[Shipey]

Had to park mine for the winter with 850 miles on the clock. It's down about 1/2 quart of oil. I kept it to 4,500 rpm for the first 500+, then hit 5,000-6,000 a few times since. I have not yet pushed it to the redline. I plan to change the filter to a Ford Performance FL820s in April, and top off the oil with Motorcraft 5W-20 semi-syn. I will make the first complete change at 5,000 miles. At that point I will most likely use Motorcraft 5W-20 fully synthetic and have the dealer change it. I bought the 8 year extended warranty, and think it's best to have the oil changes recorded in the dealer's computer.

 

[rcl4668]

Had to park mine for the winter with 850 miles on the clock. It's down about 1/2 quart of oil. I kept it to 4,500 rpm for the first 500+, then hit 5,000-6,000 a few times since. I have not yet pushed it to the redline. I plan to change the filter to a Ford Performance FL820s in April, and top off the oil with Motorcraft 5W-20 semi-syn. I will make the first complete change at 5,000 miles. At that point I will most likely use Motorcraft 5W-20 fully synthetic and have the dealer change it. I bought the 8 year extended warranty, and think it's best to have the oil changes recorded in the dealer's computer.

Thanks Shipey! Hey, i noticed your comment about using the FL820S filter as opposed to the factory spec FL500S filter. Can you tell me about that? What are the benefits of the FL820S?

 

[Schwerin]

Thanks Shipey! Hey, i noticed your comment about using the FL820S filter as opposed to the factory spec FL500S filter. Can you tell me about that? What are the benefits of the FL820S?

FL820S is a larger filter so you have more filtering media and can hold a very small about more oil. It has a 16SPI bypass while the 500 has a 8PSI bypass. In other words the FL500S is in bypass more often, especially on cold starts.

Not much of a reason to change unless ones cheaper than the other, or you're just REALLY anal about having a tiny bit better filtering. There is also a Ford Racing 820 that has even more media in it for more filtering.

 

[Shipey]

Thanks Shipey! Hey, i noticed your comment about using the FL820S filter as opposed to the factory spec FL500S filter. Can you tell me about that? What are the benefits of the FL820S?

It contains 50% more filtering media and the can has a higher burst rate (which doesn't matter to me). It's probably not necessary since I will change the oil yearly anyway, so the stock filter would be adequate. But because I really like my car I will buy it.

 

[Shipey]

I was referring to the Ford Performance filter and not the Motorcraft filter.

 

[Shipey]

I was referring to the Ford Performance filter and not the Motorcraft filter.

Look up Ford Racing FL820 and you will see that it’s a more robust filter than a Motorcraft FL500S or Motorcraft FL820S, but again IMO not really necessary. It just depends on whether you are racing or just want to buy the best Ford offers.

 

[rcl4668]

Thanks Shipey! Other than cost (which is not a factor), is there any downside to using the Ford Racing 820S? Also, is this the filter you have been referencing:

https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-pe...MIl6uv9-f63wIVeyCtBh3VQQWQEAQYASABEgL95fD_BwE

 

[Schwerin]

Thanks Shipey! Other than cost (which is not a factor), is there any downside to using the Ford Racing 820S? Also, is this the filter you have been referencing:

https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-pe...MIl6uv9-f63wIVeyCtBh3VQQWQEAQYASABEgL95fD_BwE

Ford Racing doesn't use the S it's just 820.

Other than price and some more media in it there is no difference from the S. Unless you are running your engine hard at the track often, it's not worth the extra money. I also imagine having the 8PSI bypass on the 500 vs the 16PSI on the 820 the may make the 500 better for you in your colder climate on cold starts being in the PNW.

They used to use the 820 on the 4.6L, I imagine they moved to the 500 for a reason, on the 5.0 Maybe due to the lower oil pressure at idle on the 5.0? If I remember it's only 20 PSI when at idle. That's barely over the 16 required to trigger the Bypass valve. I suspect they have a reason they want the valve to open sooner, or could just be trying to consolidate filters instead of having so many sizes similar to how Nissan does to save money. Like every performance i4, i6 and v6 by Nissan uses the same filter, I think some of their V8's use a filter that also fits on their smaller engines but just holds more filtering material. I suspect Ford may be trying to go to a similar model.

For Daily use I'd run the 500, if I was hitting a track night/day I'd put on a 820S with fresh oil then toss after the weekend with the oil, if the car was track focused I'd run the 820.

TLDR: Unless you are tracking the car regularly you will NEVER see any real difference in running the 500, 820S or 820 other than how light your wallet is.

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