Mishimoto Tube/Drop-in Filter/Velossa Tech combo vs pmas vs mishimoto cai

[Red65]

TL;DR: Car still ticking on second engine, not tuning it as of now.

Before I get spit roasted for not immediately picking the Pmas, it needs to be said that I am not tuning my car as of right now. Maybe for a while. I have a 2017 Premium GT with 6,500 miles; 3,350 of those miles was on the original engine the car had when I bought it off the lot and it was plagued with the dreaded (and VERY loud) ticking noise. I brought it in at 3,350 miles and their inspection showed excessive clearance on the main bearings and piston wall scoring on piston 7 and 8. Received new shortblock which started ticking (no oil changes were made) after the first 300 miles. Until I am confident that the ticking will not cause any long term issues, my warranty expires, or I find a dealership that won't ream me for modding my car, I will not tune it.

Back to the thread, I am interested in upgrading from the stock airbox setup and I have my eyes on the 3 setups listed in the title. I've tried to compile dyno sheets on my own from other people using these setups but things such as weather and other supporting mods skewed it too much. I like how Pmas designed their CAI based on fixing the pressure issue that other CAI's have but because of the new heatshield causing some seriously high AIT's (I live in the deep south where it's insanely hot and humid), I have thought about the Mishi Tube/Drop-in Filter/Velossa Tech combo since owners have said the drivability and gains are really good. I am also curious about the mishimoto CAI kit as there's not many videos on it. For keeping the car on a stock tune, which route would you guys suggest?

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[Jay-rod427]

I have the Mishimoto complete system and love it. ZERO concerns with iat's, proven gains on logs, and looks great.

 

[Performance nut]

I have the Mishimoto complete system and love it. ZERO concerns with iat's, proven gains on logs, and looks great.

Second this. Was an easy install on my 2016 despite what some say about a tight fit. My only complaint is they haven't gotten around to making one for my 2018

Edit: if you go with Kooks 1 3/4" headers with green cats, you can gain some good power and not throw a code. Best non-tune build I have seen so far. Pair this up with a good cat back and the car sounds mean as hell. Mi dos centavos.

 

[udcvsean]

About to install the mishi tube, AFE dry filter, and velossa big mouth. Honestly I have the ticking issue too at 13k miles and it doesn’t bother me too much, but of course back of my mind I’m worried about potential engine issues later on... Should probably get it looked at as well.

 

[LETHAL]

If the dealer wants to be crappy about it, they can deny a warranty claim just as easily for a CAI or whatever Non-Oem combo you install as they can for a tune.

Spare the Moss/Mag speech...Just saying...they can try.

 

[Nuked]

If you are having ticking noises again, and it bothers/worries you, leave it stock or at most get a drop in filter. No way would I be messing with anything if I suspected there was an underlying problem with the engine.

 

[blackyote_317]

TL;DR: Car still ticking on second engine, not tuning it as of now.

Before I get spit roasted for not immediately picking the Pmas, it needs to be said that I am not tuning my car as of right now. Maybe for a while. I have a 2017 Premium GT with 6,500 miles; 3,350 of those miles was on the original engine the car had when I bought it off the lot and it was plagued with the dreaded (and VERY loud) ticking noise. I brought it in at 3,350 miles and their inspection showed excessive clearance on the main bearings and piston wall scoring on piston 7 and 8. Received new shortblock which started ticking (no oil changes were made) after the first 300 miles. Until I am confident that the ticking will not cause any long term issues, my warranty expires, or I find a dealership that won't ream me for modding my car, I will not tune it.

Back to the thread, I am interested in upgrading from the stock airbox setup and I have my eyes on the 3 setups listed in the title. I've tried to compile dyno sheets on my own from other people using these setups but things such as weather and other supporting mods skewed it too much. I like how Pmas designed their CAI based on fixing the pressure issue that other CAI's have but because of the new heatshield causing some seriously high AIT's (I live in the deep south where it's insanely hot and humid), I have thought about the Mishi Tube/Drop-in Filter/Velossa Tech combo since owners have said the drivability and gains are really good. I am also curious about the mishimoto CAI kit as there's not many videos on it. For keeping the car on a stock tune, which route would you guys suggest?

I’ve been having the same internal struggle between mishimoto and PMAS. My circumstances are similar but a littler different. I have a 2017 GT and had my long block replaced at 12k for similar symptoms as yours including piston wall scoring. Mine was making a ticking/rattling noise around 2k rpm. I had the PMAS intake and a 93 tune from VMP from ~6k – 12k miles.

I’ve put almost 1k miles on the new engine and everything seems great so far. I’m going to change the oil soon, put another 500-1k miles on, and then I’d like to tune it again because I’m really missing the power it had before, especially in the midrange. But, I’m not sure whether I want to go back to that intake and tune combo. The stock airbox keeps IATs low and I’m not really hitting the dragstrips much at all so max flow maybe isn’t what I need?

With that in mind, I’ve considered picking up a Mishimoto tube and green filter. There are claims of actually picking up 10-15 whp on stock tune with that setup. I’m not sure I believe it but if so, that would delay my mod addiction and I’d probably put off tuning a little longer to get more comfortable with the new engine. Can anyone verify? If I went this route, I would probably use a canned SCT tune for a bit and then get another custom tune for that setup.

I was pretty much sold on the above route but the PMAS and tune dramatically changed the car for me. I’m worried the Mishimoto and tune wouldn’t have the same effect. Idk if I’d actually be able to tell though lol. Might only be 5-10 hp different.

Basically what I’m saying is I’d love to hear people’s opinions on this comparison, as well. Is there a dramatic power difference between the two with tunes? Does the mishimoto and drop in filter make power on it’s own without a tune?

 

[SVT-DADDY]

Most of the HP in these tune CAI packages is coming from the tune.

I don't like open filters on these cars, the fan throws hot air directly over the filter. I'd do this especially since you have concerns about the dealer engine:

1. Remove maxi pad from air box
2. Install a panel filter
3. Install Velossa.

That will net you a true cold air system that looks stock and is easy on the wallet.

Another option would be the Ford racing power pack, they can't bust your chops for that.

 

[blackyote_317]

Most of the HP in these tune CAI packages is coming from the tune.

I don't like open filters on these cars, the fan throws hot air directly over the filter. I'd do this especially since you have concerns about the dealer engine:

1. Remove maxi pad from air box
2. Install a panel filter
3. Install Velossa.

That will net you a true cold air system that looks stock and is easy on the wallet.

Another option would be the Ford racing power pack, they can't bust your chops for that.

Yeah, I'm going to install a big mouth either way but you're the 2nd person I've not heard mention the turbulent air over the filter. I've considered the power pack 2 in the past. It's an option.

 

[SVT-DADDY]

You might want to go with options 1 and 3 for now and see if your happy about with it. The best intake mod I did was opening up the hex's in the grill and then later installing the Velossa.

 

[gameovergt]

I am running the Mishi tube, K&N, Velossa Tech combo. Seems to work fine for me!

 

[Performance nut]

Most of the HP in these tune CAI packages is coming from the tune.

I don't like open filters on these cars, the fan throws hot air directly over the filter. I'd do this especially since you have concerns about the dealer engine:

1. Remove maxi pad from air box
2. Install a panel filter
3. Install Velossa.

That will net you a true cold air system that looks stock and is easy on the wallet.

Another option would be the Ford racing power pack, they can't bust your chops for that.

The Mishimoto is a closed box as well. The difference is the intake tube on the Mishimoto has more volume I believe.

 

[texasboy21]

There is a thread floating around with a stock airbox and SCT canned tune dyno vs a Lund tune and JLT intake. The difference was 7hp.

If you are worried about the car/warranty you can:
1. Leave it stock
2. Go with a Ford power pack
3. Drop in a filter, do the free airbox mods, and maybe add an intake tube.

I opted for this combo (and am still running the canned SCT tune) and can say that it undoubtedly adds some HP. Every singe ounce of it? I dont know, but the car runs well and even in 100+ F ambient temps (120F+ road temps) my IATs are in check.

 

[Red65]

There is a thread floating around with a stock airbox and SCT canned tune dyno vs a Lund tune and JLT intake. The difference was 7hp.

If you are worried about the car/warranty you can:
1. Leave it stock
2. Go with a Ford power pack
3. Drop in a filter, do the free airbox mods, and maybe add an intake tube.

I opted for this combo (and am still running the canned SCT tune) and can say that it undoubtedly adds some HP. Every singe ounce of it? I dont know, but the car runs well and even in 100+ F ambient temps (120F+ road temps) my IATs are in check.

I agree that the stock airbox w/ tube, filter and velossa tech big mouth seems to be one of the simplest and most consistent setups. I’ve actually opted for the power pack stage 2 though. A bit more expensive overall but it also tunes the car (albeit it’s far from a Lund/ SCT tune but it’s still better than stock).

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