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LETHAL

From the D but in the NC
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That paranoid, sell the car.
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sigintel

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lol.
8k w turbos.
no problem.

Drive the stock motor 300 miles nice
500 miles like you stole it
do compression test
change oil
If any cylinder below 230#, keep it stock and drive it like stolen while in warranty till it breaks. If all above 230# and +/-5%, time for FI.

6-7psi turbos on 93 octane is reliable to 50-100k mile daily or 2 track season (22hr on track time).
above that you need E85 on at least two reliable pumps.
If you run EGT sensors on all cylinders, you can tune to EGT to avoid needing to open motor and open ring gaps. 'Supposedly', stock ring gaps do not allow for 1700F EGT as they expand and bind and blow your ring lands out. Can be solved by either opening gaps, or wear the rings down over time before shooting for the moon (8 cylinders at 220#?, perfect, up the boost another psi and run for 3 more months, rinse repeat).

For 8k+ rpm you need to upgrade the valve train and change the timing chains every 8-15hrs of track time.
8k+ you need tensioners, chains, phasers, lash adjusters, TG (TSS profile-my $0.02), and valve spring possibly if aiming for 8500 constant track abuse.
TG from TSS, rest from Ford including newly released lash adjusters and phasers, best FRPP tensioners, FRPP best chains, etc. There is also a new lower parasitic/low flow oil pump housing for those staying 6-8k on road course all the time.

Stick w stock motor and if you grenade its 4.5k after core/shipping to swap LONG BLOCK W HEADS. If you only need short block without heads, cut that cost in half. Basically, you can blow up 5x short blocks for the price of building one crazy motor that you are going to need to pull anyway after the rings are shot. Just keep the crank hp below 1000hp.

Now if you are going above 1000hp crank constantly, you need 10x wallet mod as the cost per hp goes up exponentially at that point.

This is just my thoughts after running a Whipple to 7800 on road courses around Texas for two seasons. Not the fastest car in turns, but certainly the funnest (most black flags and 'meatball flags' on day two for power drifting out of low speed turns). Of course, you can spend $20k on 'buiding', but make sure that you like 'building' more than 'driving'. Nearing the 3 yr mark, first motor cylinder 8 was 180-200 and had another motor lined up, so pushed it and got surprised by trans not holding a 2-3 shift (should have lifted more, ooops). Hopped timing above 8400 rpm and broke crank. Beef up the valve train for cheap, and Ford will provide substantial HP per dollar.
 

Nuked

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FFS 77 miles... rather than worrying about rebuilding the engine, lets focus on other things like filling it up with fuel the first time.
 

Souldriver

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What the hell is this post? Yelling you were going to do light mods but you "cant trust ford" acting like the car is a timebomb. But yet here you are with the car already bought.

And despite saying you wanted light mods you are now trying to go fully built right out the gate?

Calm down, figure out what you really want and go from there. Save the money and aus from the bad typing.
 

Zelek

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Go trade in your Mustang for a Camry if engine reliability is your biggest concern keeping you up at night.
 

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69mach1-395

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Maybe he's just trolling?
 

Choking_Victim

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I remember why I left the forums......holy shit has it become worse.
 

Zelek

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Yet you guys are currently viewing the forums and posting on it.

Brilliant!
 

Choking_Victim

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Had some parts to sell, figured I'd poke around while I was at it...thanks for the insight haha
 

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69mach1-395

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OP has 25 posts in 3 years...not even sure he has a stang.
 

bootlegger

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OP, I understand your concern. However, out of the 45+ cars on the forum experiencing the weird engine rattle, only like 4 had an engine replacement and 1 of those was a full failure (I believe). Instead of just replacing the engine, put money aside in case it does fail. That way, you can mod to your liking and know you have a backup. Personally, I don't have the cash for a built engine, so I am keeping my mods as-is until more information comes out about the cause of engine noise.
 

choate

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Mine has the BBQ tick. should I be worried?
 

Zinc03svt

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Stop giving stupid threads attention is a great plan of action right now. Car forums are turning into complete garbage with trolling and horrible mis-information. Don’t think for one minute that these muscle car forums which (unfortunately) steer buying decisions for a lot of people are not being watched and manipulated to some extent (paid trolls, unhappy psychopaths) by corporate interests. Lol.
 

choate

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You think this is bad, you should join the FB car groups and read the comments. it's brutal
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