Do you have any specific oil suggestions? I can't find much info on the internet, seems like everyone uses baby oil or mineral oil.
Lol. Jumped to end of thread and was skimming backwards. Without context, I was like ...wtf are these guys talking mineral and baby oil... Was afraid for a sec the thread had gone NSFW or new age hipster health care or something ...Hey suggest using baby oil. I would look for an alternative that will not gum up the intercooler or the MAF. There are oils or smoke oils designed for this.
For me? I'm bringing it to the dyno with a good local tuner here and we are going to go through it. Mine is very very little hesitation but I wanna just make sure it's not knocking it's brains out. Most likely I will end up getting him to correct it. I love things being perfect! I'm at 99% perfect but that damn 1% will drive me crazy:headbonk:Well, I thought the MAF fixed it, but it's back again. Datalog shows timing jumping around and KR bouncing from 0 to -2.x with some swings into positive numbers as high as 2.6. The stumbling coincides exactly with the real time graph showing negative KR (negative supposedly good)
It not fuel. I've tried multiple tier 1 stations. Torco doesn't help either. I don't have solid engine mounts or anything suspension related going on. My exhaust was checked from stem to stern and it's not hitting anywhere. It's like the car is very aggressively trying to add timing (good for power) but doing so abruptly and upsetting things.
Knock sensor 2 is showing some activity. Knock sensor 1 is very quiet. I find that strange since I'd expect to see some residue on KS1 from KS2 side activity if there was really something there.
The new Whipple tune made a lot of issues get better, but this still remains. Not sure what to do at this point. Aftermarket tune? Whipple has kinda gone silent in this thread so I'm not optimistic about getting any advice.
Anybody running a Lund tune? Was there any gains on the dyno?
John
Negative knock sensor values means the PCM does not see knock and is adding timing. Positive is the PCM seeing knock and pulling back. The knock sensor is programmed to find max power under certain load conditions, thus it will constantly go back and forth unless the gas octane is high enough to allow it only to add at all times.Well, I thought the MAF fixed it, but it's back again. Datalog shows timing jumping around and KR bouncing from 0 to -2.x with some swings into positive numbers as high as 2.6. The stumbling coincides exactly with the real time graph showing negative KR (negative supposedly good)
It not fuel. I've tried multiple tier 1 stations. Torco doesn't help either. I don't have solid engine mounts or anything suspension related going on. My exhaust was checked from stem to stern and it's not hitting anywhere. It's like the car is very aggressively trying to add timing (good for power) but doing so abruptly and upsetting things.
Knock sensor 2 is showing some activity. Knock sensor 1 is very quiet. I find that strange since I'd expect to see some residue on KS1 from KS2 side activity if there was really something there.
The new Whipple tune made a lot of issues get better, but this still remains. Not sure what to do at this point. Aftermarket tune? Whipple has kinda gone silent in this thread so I'm not optimistic about getting any advice.
Anybody running a Lund tune? Was there any gains on the dyno?
John
Flare tool software or any generic scan toolThese fuel trims you guys are talking about. Where do I even see his information?
Operating temps have little to do with fuel trims. It should be accurate at all temps. If you've updated to our latest cal (last 60 days) and you're seeing 20% fuel trims, most likely an air leak. Especially at idle, if fuel trims are off at idle more than 10-15%, you have a leak.These fuel trims you guys are talking about. Where do I even see his information?
The negative KR thing might just be coincidence. I see negative KR a lot while lightly accelerating. Are you transitioning to full throttle, or is this just part throttle acceleration stumbling? Does it happen in every gear?
I'm still chasing my own problems, but I don't think they are tune related. My smoke test was inconclusive, I couldn't see anything leaking except the airbox pre-MAF. In cold weather, my idle fuel trims are pretty well behaved. When the weather turns warm, I see the fuel trims start climbing. In one 40 minute drive I went from +3%/-1% to +8%/+4% at idle. I'm not sure if that's reasonable, but it still seems like I have a vacuum leak somewhere.