Throttle cutting out in hard left turns !!!

[MaverickGT]

You could run a boost-a-pump and get the same results but it is hard on the pump to increase the voltage all the time.

Dave

Can you run a boost a pump with a switch to turn on for track days only? I'm not familiar with how they work exactly.

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[ddozier]

Can you run a boost a pump with a switch to turn on for track days only? I'm not familiar with how they work exactly.

I have not tested this so I do not know for sure that this will cure the problem 100%. We will need someone to be willing to try this option and test to see if it is a viable option. It is expensive and requires a significant install and setup time so in addition to the parts the labor will be something to consider.

This Boost-a-pump is throttle based so it will only turn up the voltage when you are at a set throttle position. Should work if you choose a half throttle position to add the voltage. Normal driving and highway cruising should keep the pump operating on normal voltage.
https://www.americanmuscle.com/jms-fuel-pump-voltage-booster-2015-cust-install.html

It will likely be cheaper to add a fuel pump controller and change the fuel hat to the GT350 hat but it will also take someone to spend the time needed to figure out the wiring so the car is happy with the added fuel pump control module. The GT350 pumps are $120.00 and the controller is $30.00. Just would need to figure out the wiring.

Dave

 

[Plimmer]

I have an aftermarket dual pump setup, and still have the stock pump module, think I'm going to pop the stock pump hat back in and run a pump in each side, will report back when I'm done in a few months of testing. Maybe I can modify to get the bypass fuel to feed other side, and when not bypassing, to feed the engine.

I had a BAP, but it can't supply enough fuel for 10psi of boost or more, so twin pumps needed.

 

[ddozier]

I have an aftermarket dual pump setup, and still have the stock pump module, think I'm going to pop the stock pump hat back in and run a pump in each side, will report back when I'm done in a few months of testing. Maybe I can modify to get the bypass fuel to feed other side, and when not bypassing, to feed the engine.

I had a BAP, but it can't supply enough fuel for 10psi of boost or more, so twin pumps needed.

You may run into issues with that plan, once one side is empty the pump will be pushing air into you fuel feed. I think the safest setup for your higher fuel needs seeing as how you are running boost would be to leave the dual pump to feed the fuel rail and add a small pump to the passenger side to keep as much fuel as possible in the drivers side tank.

Running a small pump on the passenger side to aid in the transfer of fuel would be the safest approach unless you are willing to put in a surge tank. If you were able to feed the output of the passenger side pump into the fuel hat you would maximize the use of that pump to ensure the drivers side pump pickup is always wet.

I think the passenger side pump with a Holey HydraMat would be the ticket. It could be a very small in-tank pump as without any back pressure there would be a lot of volume moved. I would look at a DW100 or something with the least amount of current draw.

Dave

 

[Plimmer]

You may run into issues with that plan, once one side is empty the pump will be pushing air into you fuel feed. I think the safest setup for your higher fuel needs seeing as how you are running boost would be to leave the dual pump to feed the fuel rail and add a small pump to the passenger side to keep as much fuel as possible in the drivers side tank.

Running a small pump on the passenger side to aid in the transfer of fuel would be the safest approach unless you are willing to put in a surge tank. If you were able to feed the output of the passenger side pump into the fuel hat you would maximize the use of that pump to ensure the drivers side pump pickup is always wet.

I think the passenger side pump with a Holey HydraMat would be the ticket. It could be a very small in-tank pump as without any back pressure there would be a lot of volume moved. I would look at a DW100 or something with the least amount of current draw.

Dave

Ok, thanks for your input, I'll follow your advice, don't need air pumped in, and I'm trying to avoid the surge tank route, to many extra fuel lines snaking everywhere and another $600 in fueling stuff.

Somewhere else the HydraMat was recommended, so thinking that will work too.

Dave, I also have the foam in my tank, but its causing issues, dislodges and gets stuck in sender or somehow messes with the inlet piping. Maybe the size you used stays in place better?

 

[ddozier]

Dave, I also have the foam in my tank, but its causing issues, dislodges and gets stuck in sender or somehow messes with the inlet piping. Maybe the size you used stays in place better?

I have not had to preposition the piece I placed in there and so far it is working for me. As far as I can tell I am not sure how it would mess with the inlet pipes as they are on the side of the fuel tank not in the center. There are vent lines to the Evap and Charcoal canister that could be impacted but so far I have not had an issue with mine.

The foam does work to limit the effect of fuel sloshing but the real issue I believe is not having enough fuel volume being bypassed to keep the venturi effect working to move the fuel from passenger to drivers side. The more time you spend in high fuel demand the less fuel is transferred.

I really think the small pump in the passenger side is going to be the fix and for the DD guys I would wire it to a switch so it only runs when at the track. Ideally it would operate on a float system like a bilge pump to move fuel when it is present. My only concern with letting it run all the time is the fuel is used to cool the pump and it will quickly move all the fuel to the drivers side and continue to run even when the passenger side is dry. I may be over thinking it but once the tank is below 8 gallons the passenger side will be empty and the pump will still be running.

The DW100 moves 185LPH or .815 GPM with a 4amp draw, this means it can move 8 gallons of fuel in 9.8min, this should be more than enough on track to keep the fuel in the drivers side of the tank. If you do this I would remove the foam and let the fuel slosh over to the passenger side and only put the foam back in if the fuel slosh is still an issue. Allowing some fuel to slosh over will allow the passenger side pump to stay wet longer and avoid it running completely dry for prolonged periods of time. Also I would likely start with the venturi system left intact and push a small piece of fuel hose from the new pump outlet over to the drivers side by running it over the hump in the tank. I would secure it to the driver side fuel hat to keep it from working its way back to the passenger side, I would attach the new pump to the passenger side sending unit and add a HydroMat for the pickup on the pump. This way the pump and venturi could work together when needed and the pump could be left off when not at the track.

May have been more of an answer than you wanted but I have spent a bit of time considering the problem and although I have not tested this solution I think it is the one to try first and I will implement on the next build for testing.

Dave

 

[Plimmer]

Appreciate the input, going to follow your advice. We are all just after something that is fast and reliable and doesn't require a full tank of gas each session.

 

[chrisgonzales]

Appreciate the input, going to follow your advice. We are all just after something that is fast and reliable and doesn't require a full tank of gas each session.

Keep us updated how it goes would like to go with a simpler route myself since it's only a track issue on specific scenarios. And doesn't affect daily driving.

 

[Racerbox77]

This is why I love forums. Great information here.

I had similar issues at Charlotte Motor Speedway last week with my Whippled car. I have full Steeda suspension and R888r tires. First session was great then it started mid way through the second session. Third session it started on the second lap. I was thinking it was some kind of limiter caused by intake temps after the blower.
The fuel starvation fits my symptoms to the T. Ordering foam before my next event.

 

[ddozier]

This is why I love forums. Great information here.

I had similar issues at Charlotte Motor Speedway last week with my Whippled car. I have full Steeda suspension and R888r tires. First session was great then it started mid way through the second session. Third session it started on the second lap. I was thinking it was some kind of limiter caused by intake temps after the blower.
The fuel starvation fits my symptoms to the T. Ordering foam before my next event.

You need to take extra caution as fuel starving a NA car is not good but a boosted car could go terminal very easy when the car leans out. You can try the foam but any hint of the issue still being there and you should look for a more permanent solution.

Dave

 

[Racerbox77]

Not necessarily. No fuel no combustion no problem. The rev limiter in this car and most Ford's cut fuel.
I'm more worried about being safe cause coming out of a high speed turn with cars behind and losing all power could end up getting rear ended or spinning out due to weight transfer.

 

[lucasmelobr]

I'm having the same issue after using NT01 tires.
Happens after 3/4 tank, I'm positive it's fuel related.
This:
"start to straighten out the wheel and roll in the throttle the car acts like the engine is cut completely then within a second or so everything returns and is fine"

I guess I will have to keep on topping up the fuel....

 

[Racerbox77]

I used the foam suggested in this thread. It seemed a bit long and I couldn't get it to fit snug towards the rear of the tank. I tried to get most of it on top of the hump.
Well wouldn't ya know the day before a track event and I fill up to find the float only goes 1/2 way...... So I'll have to run it tomorrow and just fill up after each session. Then run it low and open it back up. I'm gonna try cutting about 5" off it long ways.

 

[Plimmer]

I used the foam suggested in this thread. It seemed a bit long and I couldn't get it to fit snug towards the rear of the tank. I tried to get most of it on top of the hump.
Well wouldn't ya know the day before a track event and I fill up to find the float only goes 1/2 way...... So I'll have to run it tomorrow and just fill up after each session. Then run it low and open it back up. I'm gonna try cutting about 5" off it long ways.

Did you get a full 16 gallons in there or fuel gauge only goes half way? Reason I ask is I had an issue filling at the pump and literally had to trickle the last 5 gallons into the tank.

The foam messes with everything in there. I pulled all mine out and then jammed as many pieces as I could across the hum. Haven’t tested it yet.

 

[Racerbox77]

Did you get a full 16 gallons in there or fuel gauge only goes half way? Reason I ask is I had an issue filling at the pump and literally had to trickle the last 5 gallons into the tank.

The foam messes with everything in there. I pulled all mine out and then jammed as many pieces as I could across the hum. Haven’t tested it yet.

I got a full tank but it's showing 1/2. I assume the foam slipped down off the hump and is preventing the float from going up.

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