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Potential Head Issue - Need help please!

Andrewg

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So before we start, engine mods are P1 Procharger Stage 2 Beefcake Special package with a Lund tune. Got a UPR procharger specific catch can installed as well as the Lund Boost+ box.

All was going well until about a month ago when I got a P0300 misfire code after a clutch install. Figured it was the crank relearn so did that and it went away but every now and then the code came back. Couldn't figure out what was causing it so sent logs to Lund and he suggested spark plugs could be on the way out. Around the same time I noted I had a boost leak as my usual 10-11psi was down to about 6psi. Checked and tightened all piping but didn't make any difference. Been a little more rough recently and down on power. Had Brisk plugs so decided to swap in NGKs this time. Pulled the plugs just now and found some oil on the threads although the actual core looks ok.

All 4 plugs from the driver's side bank:
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Plug 1 (furthest from driver) and 2:
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Plug 3 and 4 (closest to driver):
260wndx.webp


First question is, has anyone seen anything like this or knows what may be causing it? My first thought would be a gasket leaking oil and causing the boost leak. Any ideas?

Next question is what to do about diagnosing it? I presume driving it right now is probably unwise although before i pulled the plugs it was ok. Not great but ok. Are there some tests or procedures I can do to troubleshoot before I take it to a shop?

Final question. Assuming it's a head gasket rather than a more serious head issue, what would everyone recommend to fix it? Just replace the head gasket? Obviously something caused some serious pressure to blow the seal so would breathers instead of the catch can make more sense and help vent pressure to atmosphere instead of re-circulating it?

Thanks for the advice guys. Totally gutted about this. Any help, thoughts or comments are welcome.
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dubster99

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None of those pics work. Upload them directly or use a different host than crappy photobucket.

I would do a compression test as this will tell you more info. If you have oil on the plugs, I'd bet on rings.
 

Tommy V

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Yep compression test the car.
 
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Andrewg

Andrewg

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None of those pics work. Upload them directly or use a different host than crappy photobucket.

I would do a compression test as this will tell you more info. If you have oil on the plugs, I'd bet on rings.
That should fix it.

Appreciate the feedback guys.
 

Tommy V

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Hey man what are those plugs tapped too,a few off them look really tight.I would use aa feeler gauge not one of those circle wedge gap tools.
 

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Andrewg

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That's a very good question. Now you mention it, they do look tight! I used feeler gauges for a .030 as per Lund's instruction before i installed them. Will have to check them out.
 

Bybotie

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Couple of things I see:
2 of those plugs are not burning the complete fuel mixture. Gap looks way too tight.
Oil looks clear in pic. Is it clear? Do the plugs smell like burnt oil or gas?
 

dubster99

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Yeah some of those gaps look really tight. I can't tell if they're black from fuel or black from oil. As Bybotie said, you should be able to smell them and tell if it's oil or fuel.
 

Crackerjack17

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Take the oil cap off with the engine running. Can you feel air puffing out? If so, welcome to the engine rebuild party.
 
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Andrewg

Andrewg

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Hey man what are those plugs tapped too,a few off them look really tight.I would use aa feeler gauge not one of those circle wedge gap tools.
Couple of things I see:
2 of those plugs are not burning the complete fuel mixture. Gap looks way too tight.
Oil looks clear in pic. Is it clear? Do the plugs smell like burnt oil or gas?
Yeah some of those gaps look really tight. I can't tell if they're black from fuel or black from oil. As Bybotie said, you should be able to smell them and tell if it's oil or fuel.
Take the oil cap off with the engine running. Can you feel air puffing out? If so, welcome to the engine rebuild party.
Thanks for the help guys. Glad you noticed that. So turns out I used an old set of feeler gauges from the UK and didn't realise that it was in mm and not inches so basically gapped the plugs to .030mm!!! No wonder it was misfiring, down on power and not burning the complete fuel mixture as Bybotie said.

Checked the oil cap and couldn't feel any air blowing out. Every plug was consistently blackened on the threads so I don't think it's the rings otherwise they wouldn't all be the same I guess. Re-gapped and the car's running great. Any idea if running too small of a gap could do any damage? Everything i've researched looks positive that i'll be fine but wondered if anyone had any experience doing something stupid like me. :doh:
 

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dubster99

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You should be ok!
 

Memphis9s

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Ford had some heads with bad valve seals come down the line. Usually on the driver side head according to the factory techs. Valves can leak on otherwise low mile and healthy engines. This was found after complaining about smoking exhaust and I had the dealer check the spark plugs.

 

Memphis9s

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It is a 2016, started after about 8,000 miles, finally fixed at 15,000 miles with new driver side cylinder head. From what I've been able to find out, Ford has had some valve seal issues on engines made in late 2015 into mid 2016. Not a bunch, but enough that they are aware of it. Typically found on driver side head.
 

dev1360

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The random misfire code is common and generally related to the IMRCs malfunctioning by breaking or sticking closed in some way. Double check that they are functioning properly. Doesn't explain the lower boost, but it's a very common issue with the symptoms you describe.
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