SYNC 3 swap, It's all in here

[Rich of So Cal]

In midst of MFT to sync3 wNav upgrade

OK I couldn't wait a week to see if this is gonna work. Tore my dash apart in the carport in 106 degree heat. Only 2 skinned hands so far.

Lost a dash clip. It popped into the dash when I tried to remove it. Think it is down the side panel. Also, I noticed a clip missed above the ac ducts. Guess it wasn't needed, as I haven't heard any rattles.

I followed the OEM video (see post 108) for removal, as it does not require removing parts of the lower console...you just pull the bezel forward, but don't remove it [NOTE: the video is for a nav upgrade on a 2016, but the removal was exactly like my 2015]. It was tricky to get to the lower screws behind the bezel, but fortunately I had a deep 7mm and 1/4" ratchet in my bike shop. Slow, but worked perfectly. I was able to use the nut driver on the top ones.

Had to search around for a #10 torx wrench, but found one on a bicycle multitool for the brackets.

So I have the brackets switched from the old unit to the new one. The screen frame on the old MFT is pristine, not bent up like the one I received today. Even if this works, I am going to replace it next week with the one they send. I will just leave my dash open until then.

OK...back to the heat to put in the gps antenna and new hub. later dudes/dudettes

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[Rich of So Cal]

done for now

Alright, it is all installed, but the dash trim, bezel and speaker cover are loose for now, while I wait for the replacement screen. I don't like the fit with the mangled frame edge, so I am going to replace the screen next week, as I mentioned earlier.

So far everything seems to be working as it should. I had a bit of struggle getting my iPhone paired. It helped after I did the "forget this device" for the old synch. Once paired, it worked flawlessly.

I have synch 2.2, CarPlay came right up. And with the cable adapter they supplied changing the hub is a 5 minute chore, only because I struggled getting the plugs unlocked. When I plugged in my iPhone CarPlay came up and running.

Climate controls work normally on and off the screen, as does the radio, cd player, apple music, pandora, slacker radio, bluetooth iPhone, as well as CarPlay iPhone. Apple maps looks good, as does sync3 maps. All settings seem to be available and working.

I plan to drive around later and see how well the gps and map systems operate, since this is an all new nav replacement to my MFT nav. Below I am including a screen shot and a pic of where I placed my gps antenna...per the 4Dtech install video. It was a tighter fit than the video, partly because they do not have a center vent. I was not able to push the plug thru that tiny hole, so I loosened the speaker and slipped it inside. I am hoping the speaker magnet won't cause any errors, that's why I want to try it out.

So if you don't mind spending the extra $$$ this is definitely an easy way to go. The dash tear down is the hardest part, but very doable if you take your time and watch the 2 videos I referenced previously.

 

[Rich of So Cal]

driving test

Took the mustang out in the heat (111-116 today) to test the system. Went out using sync3 nav and returned with CarPlay/apple maps. They both got me where I needed to go, but sync3 is more versatile and has easier to use voice commands. Totally different than the old sync2/MFT. It worked ok, but was very slow and precise, voice-wise. Apparently apple maps will not let you set a waypoint, just a destination. Also while running apple maps you don't get to see much else, like outside and inside temps. It does do well with phone calls and text messaging, and of course it lets you use other apps.

Sync3 will let you call out a station freq and tune to it, when you are in the radio. Siri just tells you to use your radio controls LAZY (implied).

If you have CarPlay running sync3 NAV defers to apple maps.

Bottom line: everything is working as it should, I think, ... but I am glad I got NAV with sync3 and am not total dependent on apple maps! :ford:

 

[wilkinda65]

Took the mustang out in the heat (111-116 today) to test the system. Went out using sync3 nav and returned with CarPlay/apple maps. They both got me where I needed to go, but sync3 is more versatile and has easier to use voice commands. Totally different than the old sync2/MFT. It worked ok, but was very slow and precise, voice-wise. Apparently apple maps will not let you set a waypoint, just a destination. Also while running apple maps you don't get to see much else, like outside and inside temps. It does do well with phone calls and text messaging, and of course it lets you use other apps.

Sync3 will let you call out a station freq and tune to it, when you are in the radio. Siri just tells you to use your radio controls LAZY (implied).

I discovered that you have to plug in your iPhone BEFORE sync3 boots up to get CarPlay. If I do it after, it just gets charged, but your bluetooth connection is still good, so you can play music you have on the phone. That is not a bad thing IMHO, because I can see there will times I don't want CarPlay on, but I need to keep my phone charging. If you have CarPlay running sync3 NAV defers to apple maps.

Bottom line: everything is working as it should, I think, ... but I am glad I got NAV with sync3 and am not total dependent on apple maps! :ford:

Can you mirror Google maps from your iPhone?

 

[Rich of So Cal]

Can you mirror Google maps from your iPhone?

No. As far as I know, you can't mirror anything. It is limited to apps they have approved. You might be able to get the audio instructions, but not the maps. Even for that you are going to have to use it in bluetooth mode, since CarPlay blanks out your iPhone. I think there is a jailbreak out there for that, but it only stops the blank iPhone screen lock.

ONE EXCEPTION is if you use android, doesn't it use google maps? If so, that's what you get. But I have no interest in changing phones.

 

[Rich of So Cal]

I discovered that you have to plug in your iPhone BEFORE sync3 boots up to get CarPlay. If I do it after, it just gets charged, but your bluetooth connection is still good, so you can play music you have on the phone.

After watching many CarPlay videos, I don't think this is the norm. But I have seen complaints about the bugginess of CarPlay sometimes. I will keep trying both ways to see. Could be the heat yesterday, my old cable that has been baking in the car for a couple years now, or car gremlins. Or could be some obscure iPhone setting that I missed...that happens a lot. At any rate it isn't a big deal for me. I usually plug in right away to charge anyhow. :headbonk:

UPDATE: seems it was just a temporary glitch. Now if I start first and then plug in the phone, CarPlay comes on. I can still turn it off in settings and have the phone charging. I did that to play with sync3 more. APPS: This is a mixed bag for both CarPlay and sync3. Pandora works well on either, as does Slacker radio. Podcasts work on CarPlay, but not sync3.

Overall, I still like sync3 better than CarPlay right now. But as both get improvements, I may change my mind. I am an apple fanboy.

 

[djcwardog]

That is very cool, good job. I notice also that you get your seat heat and cooling up on the Sync 3 Home Screen. I think that they edited a line of code in your APIM to get that.

In the APIM, my car, bone stock, does not show me those settings. They probably coded APIM line 07D0-01-01 from

xxxx xxxx x0xx (what mine is) to xxxx xxxx x2xx to show both seat heat and cooling as yours does. I may change the code in my APIM next time I am using FORscan to do anything.

Drill down into your settings to get 911 Assist on and select two of your contacts as emergency contacts. There are many other cool settings you can make.

I agree with you, as Ford implements it, Apple CarPlay checks a block to sell the cars as loaded with tech, but their native Sync 3 interface looks and functions better. My daughter has a very nice, new, 2017 Focus with the 8" screen (no navigation though - maybe I can get an APIM and do a surprise retrofit for her!) and Sony audio system. Her CarPlay looks as underwhelming as in my Mustang GT. I have recently used CarPlay in a BMW and in a loaded Honda Accord - both cars have high-res screens and they really optimize the CarPlay interface and experience. Not so with our Fords - at least to this date. Maybe when the 2018 cars come out with that 12" all-electronic gauge cluster, which I am really hoping to be able to retrofit!, they will issue a Sync 3 update, that improves CarPlay? If you choose to, you can enable CarPlay but not have the screen automatically load it up. Instead you see it as a menu choice along the bottom. I now typically disable CarPlay and just use Sync 3. If I plug in my iPhone, I see it as both a Bluetooth and a USB music source - with album art.

 

[Rich of So Cal]

[MENTION=30920]djcwardog[/MENTION] thanks for the comments. I am still getting used to the 2 new-to-me systems.

BTW do you know of an easy way to delete the siriusxm app icon from sync3? I don't use it and it would be much smoother when I change media sources from the steering wheel, if I didn't have go thru the sirius promo screens each time.

 

[djcwardog]

Remove SiriusXM from Sources menu?

I think you can use FORscan to edit the ACM module to do this. I don't know what your as-built car options are. You can get a data file from Ford online with your car's as-built data. That's a start but you still need to read the code in your ACM to see what 727-01-01 xxxx xxxx xxxx reads.

In my car it reads 1050 F800 44CC. For me, the first character is a 1 which means SDARS internal (Sirius XM) enabled, APIM Gen 2 & EFP CAN based & APIM available. Checking forum spreadsheets, of the sixteen choices for that character, choosing 9 would disable Sat Radio but leave everything else as-is.

The next character is for whether or not you have HD Radio (the ACM from a 401A car). With my old ACM, it was 8 for me until I retrofitted a 401A ACM. Now it's a 0 which enables HD Radio.

If you never had HD Radio then it is possible that your a ACM 727-02-01 now reads 1850 xxxx xxxx and that it should be edited to read 9850 xxxx xxxx to lose SiriusXM on your menu. If you do have HD Radio (401A option with trunk sub or a retrofit) then perhaps try 9050 xxxx xxxx.

 

[HextallS550]

BTW do you know of an easy way to delete the siriusxm app icon from sync3?

No, it has been tried and causes other issues.

Something else to mention is that while the F150 sheet is a good start for FORScan data in a Mustang there is still a lot of code that has yet to be ID'd as far as our cars go.

 

[Rich of So Cal]

No, it has been tried and causes other issues.

Something else to mention is that while the F150 sheet is a good start for FORScan data in a Mustang there is still a lot of code that has yet to be ID'd as far as our cars go.

That's what I was afraid of. I don't want to reprogram it, just hide the icons. But I will leave well enough alone for now. All my factory functions are working...climate, hd radio, back up camera, etc. I was hoping for an easy adjust through screen settings. But thanks for the info.

 

[HextallS550]

You need the WPT1239 pigtail (or a simple old floppy disk drive connector) spliced into the 2015's old hub connector as outlined in the fusion post a user posted above in order to get the new hub to work. The 2015 connector is mich bigger and the hub is not a direct swap (whereas Sync 3 itself is).

Seriously!?! Does anyone actually read the OP myself and others poured time and money into? That WPT1239 is a JST connector part. It's less than $2. Don't waste your money on the Ford parts.
I even show a picture with f'n part numbers on how to make an adapter if you have MFT and want to go to Sync3. I then post a schematic showing exactly what USB cables you need from Ford AND how to route them for a factory install. Yet people still come in here and cause confusion.

Not to shit on you mkenny28; but you guys have to realize that every time someone posts a "I heard this on fusion2g," "I saw this on an F-150" "My friend who's ex-boyfriend who knew a guy tha once took a ride on a Harley knew this kid that swapped Sync 3 into his Focus RS and he said..." I get 5 PM's for each of those posts because its confusing people. I have laid this out as simply as I can. If I could source enough units and had the time to put together kits at cost I would. But until then please PM me before adding information that could cause confusion.

 

[soldier989]

I imagine that once your video gets created and posted some of this confusion will get cleared up. A collection of questions you get PM'd, texted or called about may be helpful to review while making the video too. Then you can debunk or speak to the viewer.

I see repeat posts on "what do I need to upgrade from my base radio, or MFT". While yes its posted in the OP, maybe a quick reference list followed by your description will grab the attention of those who have short attention spans.

Example:
MFT -> Sync3
1. Sync3 Unit
2. HU5Z Hub

Base -> Sync3
1. Premium Bezel
2. Sync3 Unit
3. HD Radio ACM / HD Radio + SAT ACM / HD Radio + SAT + NAV ACM
4. The 20g wiring you mentioned, Tyco connectors, molex connector, JST connector
5. Necessary ABD info
- optional: SAT antenna, GPS Antenna, HU5Z hub (for apple carplay/AA), Ford cables to connect the Hub.


^ Just a suggestion, don't want to interfere with your awesome write up!


Once mine gets installed, I'll be able to play with As-Built to figure out what us V6ers need to do. Until then, I can only compare hex and not know what it does. Happy and willing to help where I can.

 

[Spart]

I think you can use FORscan to edit the ACM module to do this. I don't know what your as-built car options are. You can get a data file from Ford online with your car's as-built data. That's a start but you still need to read the code in your ACM to see what 727-01-01 xxxx xxxx xxxx reads.

In my car it reads 1050 F800 44CC. For me, the first character is a 1 which means SDARS internal (Sirius XM) enabled, APIM Gen 2 & EFP CAN based & APIM available. Checking forum spreadsheets, of the sixteen choices for that character, choosing 9 would disable Sat Radio but leave everything else as-is.

The next character is for whether or not you have HD Radio (the ACM from a 401A car). With my old ACM, it was 8 for me until I retrofitted a 401A ACM. Now it's a 0 which enables HD Radio.

If you never had HD Radio then it is possible that your a ACM 727-02-01 now reads 1850 xxxx xxxx and that it should be edited to read 9850 xxxx xxxx to lose SiriusXM on your menu. If you do have HD Radio (401A option with trunk sub or a retrofit) then perhaps try 9050 xxxx xxxx.

If you're trying to figure out stuff to change in the ACM, make sure you check out my post here where I do a deep-dive on that stuff. As for what works for people who are swapping from a base unit, check this post.

We haven't yet identified if there are settings that can eliminate the Sirius option from Sync 3 without breaking other things. There was one I tried that broke TTS. I will say that you're probably looking in the wrong place - that setting is likely to be in the APIM (7D0), not the ACM (727).

 

[djcwardog]

If you're trying to figure out stuff to change in the ACM, make sure you check out my post here where I do a deep-dive on that stuff. As for what works for people who are swapping from a base unit, check this post.

We haven't yet identified if there are settings that can eliminate the Sirius option from Sync 3 without breaking other things. There was one I tried that broke TTS. I will say that you're probably looking in the wrong place - that setting is likely to be in the APIM (7D0), not the ACM (727).

Spart and HextailS550,

I have enjoyed reading your posts (and those on FORscan etc.) to get snapped in on how folks are editing modules in these cars. I am still in discovery learning mode, so please don't take anything I share as more than just a hobbyist posting up on the slope of his learning curve - trying to flatten that as quickly as possible.

You guys have it solid - I tried to get our ICM (center display between the tach and speedo) to give us a digital speedo, but that coding failed to take even though it apparently may work in a Focus or a Fusion. I just reverted that line out and all was fine.

No worries, I have a used Navdy coming my way which should provide me the speedo and tach as a HUD.

Also, here is another good example of trying to use your common-sense approach to do these retrofits. I contacted Mouser to try and find the generic plug for that subwoofer amp input that I posted on a few posts earlier in the Stereo thread. Even with my close up photos, etc. they replied that they have no matching plug. Bizarre and I plan to send them photos of that Ford plug if it ends up being a fit. Hell, with only 5 pins used, I may just attach the five leads directly on the subwoofer amp jack and then form my own plug around it by molding. Black bumper repair goo would work great I think. You just have to carefully brush some Pam (non-stick cooking spray) on the sides on the jack and seal the bottom inside with a thin piece of foam. The idea of course is to prevent any of that stuff from going where it should not go. That could be terminal for the amp, pun intended. Once it cures, carefully pull it out and voila! Instant custom formed plug... just a thought of course.

As always, I take any advice I read as "use at your own risk" and I share anything with the same caveat. That said, I enjoy the posts on this forum - everyone seems to really be pulling together to demystify modding these cars, awesome!

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