Do you have audio questions?

[HextallS550]

[MENTION=19179]BDMACH1[/MENTION] Bob, I'm off at 4:15 give me a call if you have time

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[BDMACH1]

[MENTION=19179]BDMACH1[/MENTION] Bob, I'm off at 4:15 give me a call if you have time

I will do that!

 

[Evo_Rob]

Yes. More like an as built diagram
Not sure you will find one unless someone on here took the time to draw one out.

On a base car:
ACM > Front Door Speakers > Tweeters (in-line capacitor)
ACM > Rear Speakers

No external amp or DSP

This is pretty much what I'm looking for. Now, where in that equation, would the crossover and amp be. Assuming the HU can handle it. I'm not really wanting to upgrade that because it seems like a huge pain

 

[SQ_S550]

This is pretty much what I'm looking for. Now, where in that equation, would the crossover and amp be. Assuming the HU can handle it. I'm not really wanting to upgrade that because it seems like a huge pain

On a base car:
ACM >Xover (DSP)> Amplifier> Front Door Speakers > Tweeters (in-line capacitor)
ACM > Rear Speakers

No external amp or DSP

Here is a very crude flow chart depicting the base OEM VS. adding an amp and replacing the front components.

 

[mustank]

Here is a very crude flow chart depicting the base OEM VS. adding an amp and replacing the front components.

If you are going straight to your amp from the base radio, make sure your amp can accept Hi level inputs. If not, you will need a DSP or Line Out converter before the amp.

I personally swapped to an aftermarket head unit because I wanted the cleanest source without correcting the factory processing and hi level out (also the other option disappeared).

 

[HextallS550]

You dont need to swap out the factory HU to get a clean pre-amp, just change your ABD in the ACM. We know from testing that the factory ACM has more line out voltage nominally than an aftermarket unit.
This is what I've been saying from the beginning. This isn't 1997 anymore, aftermarket HUs are not as far ahead of factory HUs as they used to be. Clarion, Alpine, Panasonic are all doing OEM stuff and if you look at where factory systems are compromised it starts with the speakers because they are the hardest thing to get VPs to invest in.
HU or Human Machine Interfaces have to look great and be easy to operate, they're seen as value added features, that's why Premiums have a touchscreen and base cars have that 1987 Porsche cell phone HU, yet the speakers are the same $2/unit Pioneer junk no matter what you buy.

 

[mustank]

I agree that it is not necessary. I just said to make sure his amp can handle the hi level out. Not everyone wants to go through the hassle to dig into the Hex codes and the "programmer" isn't available. My amp has the Hi level selector but I still wanted a better interface and a HU that handles FLAC files.

 

[mumbles]

My background, similar to SQ's
Youngest MECP certified First Class installer in 1995 (age 17)
Local competitor and installation specialist in Cincinnati 1995-1999
Started building sub boxes at age 15 using early Wayne Harris software
Graduate of GM ASEP at Sinclair College
Specialized in Electrical and drivability at a GM dealer for 3 years
Moved into engineering at GM after more school and was responsible for creating custom harnesses for test transmissions
Now working at Honda R&D doing "stuff"
Besides racing engines car audio is my second passion.

Ahh Wayne Harris... I was just discussing him at a car stereo event last weekend. The "father" of the Symmetry system
http://www.termpro.com/asp/pubs.asp?ID=129

When that system came out in 1991, I was working at a major airline in the simulator dept, and I amazed my coworkers with that article which showed the exact same Motorola "computer rack" we were using to run several of our older simulators...

 

[BDMACH1]

You dont need to swap out the factory HU to get a clean pre-amp, just change your ABD in the ACM. We know from testing that the factory ACM has more line out voltage nominally than an aftermarket unit.
This is what I've been saying from the beginning. This isn't 1997 anymore, aftermarket HUs are not as far ahead of factory HUs as they used to be. Clarion, Alpine, Panasonic are all doing OEM stuff and if you look at where factory systems are compromised it starts with the speakers because they are the hardest thing to get VPs to invest in.
HU or Human Machine Interfaces have to look great and be easy to operate, they're seen as value added features, that's why Premiums have a touchscreen and base cars have that 1987 Porsche cell phone HU, yet the speakers are the same $2/unit Pioneer junk no matter what you buy.

Morning brutha! I got tied up yesterday, and by the time I got free, it was after 7 o'clock and didn't wanna bug ya.

What does ABD stand for??? I'm assuming it has something to do with changing a setting to get rid of all the processing via software like FORScan. This would be the same thing as what Jessie(OEM Radio) harness/flash tool is supposed to do?

 

[HextallS550]

What does ABD stand for??? I'm assuming it has something to do with changing a setting to get rid of all the processing via software like FORScan. This would be the same thing as what Jessie(OEM Radio) harness/flash tool is supposed to do?

Not everyone wants to go through the hassle to dig into the Hex codes and the "programmer" isn't available. My amp has the Hi level selector but I still wanted a better interface and a HU that handles FLAC files.

OEMRadio's programmer does the exact same thing that anyone with a lap top can do using FORScan to change ABD (As Built Data). I think that Ford Module Programming software will do the same with my VCM II. But until I get my bezel I'm stuck waiting.

As far as playing FLAC I use my phone with the Onkyo HF app to play any file I want including Hi-Res DSD stuff, now that the Helix DSP.2 will take straight digital asynchronously, the HU in my car will basically be a display. The more you avoid unnecessary A/D to D/A conversions the better.

Ahh Wayne Harris... I was just discussing him at a car stereo event last weekend. The "father" of the Symmetry system
http://www.termpro.com/asp/pubs.asp?ID=129

When that system came out in 1991, I was working at a major airline in the simulator dept, and I amazed my coworkers with that article which showed the exact same Motorola "computer rack" we were using to run several of our older simulators...

Harris is the smartest dude in car audio besides maybe Richard Clark.

 

[Evo_Rob]

[MENTION=27502]SQ_S550[/MENTION] that is exactly what I was looking for, thank you! I'm assuming it mirrors to the rear deck as well?
[MENTION=28081]HextallS550[/MENTION] I'm pretty sure playing with ABD is out of my league, so would you recommend going the LOC(not sure what DSP is/are) as recommended by [MENTION=24193]mustank[/MENTION]? Or are most amps nowadays capable of sensing the high level inputs?

Thank you to everyone in here, by the way

 

[HextallS550]

[MENTION=28081]HextallS550[/MENTION] I'm pretty sure playing with ABD is out of my league, so would you recommend going the LOC(not sure what DSP is/are) as recommended by [/QUOTE]

I DO NOT recommend LOCs of any type, if you can do wiring you can change two parameters on your ACM ABD. Trust me its not hard.

 

[mumbles]

@SQ_S550 that is exactly what I was looking for, thank you! I'm assuming it mirrors to the rear deck as well?
@HextallS550 I'm pretty sure playing with ABD is out of my league, so would you recommend going the LOC(not sure what DSP is/are) as recommended by @mustank ? Or are most amps nowadays capable of sensing the high level inputs?

Thank you to everyone in here, by the way

Before talking about DSP, lets talk about amps and speakers... are you starting out with any or are you starting from scratch?

 

[Evo_Rob]

[MENTION=28081]HextallS550[/MENTION] I'm pretty sure playing with ABD is out of my league, so would you recommend going the LOC(not sure what DSP is/are) as recommended by

I DO NOT recommend LOCs of any type, if you can do wiring you can change two parameters on your ACM ABD. Trust me its not hard.[/QUOTE]
I'll have to read through the ABD thread again, and have you hold my hand lol. What exactly would I be changing?

Before talking about DSP, lets talk about amps and speakers... are you starting out with any or are you starting from scratch?

Starting from scratch. I haven't ordered because I want to make sure i have everything I need first and know that I can get it done. Just want to change the cabin speakers for now. I haven't decided if I want subs again. If I did, it'd be 8's again. All I've been told that everyone agrees on is that I want component speakers. I'd really like a small amp like the RF PBR300X4 so I can mount it in the cabin. I'm planning on bagging next spring so I want to keep the trunk fairly open. That's about as far as I am now.

I'm not a huge audio person, but I hate how raspy the speakers get when I turn it up loud with the windows down at highway speeds. If you have any suggestions on what to get to get the best of my money, at say under $500, i'm all ears

 

[wjfawb0]

I'm in a boat similar to Evo_Rob. I have a 2015 base GT that I drive about as much as my 2015 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon. The wrangler's upgraded Alpine system and floor sub really put the mustang to shame. It's hard to listen to any music in the mustang after hearing all the low end in the jeep. I'm interested in better speakers for the OEM locations and 1 or 2 subs in the trunk in a slim box. I need to be able to get my mother in law's walker in the trunk when I pick her up from time to time.

I'm a total DIY guy and an electrical engineer with electronics R&D experience. I've installed several backup cameras and head units in wranglers lately, finished up a clutch install last night, and now I have some free time to mess with audio on the mustang. I drove it 900 miles over the weekend, and the sound sucked.

HextallS550, you don't happen to know any Hawryschuks, do you? It's a long shot, but I worked with a guy who knew someone who worked for Honda doing stuff with cars.

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