Add subwoofer to Shaker System (9 Speaker setup) OEM way

[jsn1]

Hi everyone.

I've seen numerous post on adding a subwoofer to the base system, and also to upgrade the sub on the Pro Shaker system (the one that comes with the sub), but nothing for the 9 speaker system that comes with no Sub but with the Shaker amp.

Goal, to set up a subwoofer as OEM as possible.

Theory:

- Based on the diagrams, the Subwoofer signal does not come from the APIM/ACM, it is generated on the DSP (amp).
- Modifying the DSP/ACM with for scan should lead us to activate the Sub.
- Pins 1 and 2 from the DSP are the subwoofer signal.
- Pin 9 from the DSP is the 12v remote.
- Power can be obtained from the BCM pin 5, maybe the AWG wouldn't be enough but if you're planning on adding the Shaker one, or maybe one of those that already come amplified, that could do the trick.

That would provide the cleanest installation possible, just have to add the 12v from the battery and the ground.

Have someone gone this way, or is interested in investigating more?

The second option, as always it has been easier is tapping the HI signal from the speaker, however, this system has something interesting. There is a -woofer signal-, this signal that comes from the DSP is for your Woofer style speakers on the door, so I'm thinking about also tapping here.

What do you think?

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[mumbles]

Hi everyone.

I've seen numerous post on adding a subwoofer to the base system, and also to upgrade the sub on the Pro Shaker system (the one that comes with the sub), but nothing for the 9 speaker system that comes with no Sub but with the Shaker amp.

Goal, to set up a subwoofer as OEM as possible.

Theory:

- Based on the diagrams, the Subwoofer signal does not come from the APIM/ACM, it is generated on the DSP (amp).
- Modifying the DSP/ACM with for scan should lead us to activate the Sub.
- Pins 1 and 2 from the DSP are the subwoofer signal.
- Pin 9 from the DSP is the 12v remote.
- Power can be obtained from the BCM pin 5, maybe the AWG wouldn't be enough but if you're planning on adding the Shaker one, or maybe one of those that already come amplified, that could do the trick.

That would provide the cleanest installation possible, just have to add the 12v from the battery and the ground.

Have someone gone this way, or is interested in investigating more?

The second option, as always it has been easier is tapping the HI signal from the speaker, however, this system has something interesting. There is a -woofer signal-, this signal that comes from the DSP is for your Woofer style speakers on the door, so I'm thinking about also tapping here.

What do you think?

I'd be interested to know where you found these diagrams? Your sig says you have a 2017 S550, and maybe these are particular to that year...

I'm not aware of any real changes between the 2015-16 Shaker systems and that of the 2017, but there are subtle differences between the diagram you posted and the ones in the sticky. For example, the amp to speakers diagram shows the left/right/center outputs on plugs 2385A & 2385B, while in your diagram it shows them on 2385A & 2385C... all the wire coloring is the same.

I'm just suggesting that you might vet out your diagram to make sure everything matches, a number of folks on this forum have set their aftermarket systems up off the diagrams in the sticky... measure twice, cut once

I have personally measured the amp turn-on signal at +6v and not +12v

 

[jsn1]

I'd be interested to know where you found these diagrams? Your sig says you have a 2017 S550, and maybe these are particular to that year...

I'm not aware of any real changes between the 2015-16 Shaker systems and that of the 2017, but there are subtle differences between the diagram you posted and the ones in the sticky. For example, the amp to speakers diagram shows the left/right/center outputs on plugs 2385A & 2385B, while in your diagram it shows them on 2385A & 2385C... all the wire coloring is the same.

I'm just suggesting that you might vet out your diagram to make sure everything matches, a number of folks on this forum have set their aftermarket systems up off the diagrams in the sticky... measure twice, cut once

I have personally measured the amp turn-on signal at +6v and not +12v

I checked and everything matches.
I've compared the AsBuilt Values of the DSP, ACM and APIM of both, and found that it is necessary to change 1 bit on the DSP and 2 bits on the ACM.

At the moment, I'm going to work on measuring what comes from the DSP.

 

[jsn1]

I'd be interested to know where you found these diagrams? Your sig says you have a 2017 S550, and maybe these are particular to that year...

I'm not aware of any real changes between the 2015-16 Shaker systems and that of the 2017, but there are subtle differences between the diagram you posted and the ones in the sticky. For example, the amp to speakers diagram shows the left/right/center outputs on plugs 2385A & 2385B, while in your diagram it shows them on 2385A & 2385C... all the wire coloring is the same.

I'm just suggesting that you might vet out your diagram to make sure everything matches, a number of folks on this forum have set their aftermarket systems up off the diagrams in the sticky... measure twice, cut once

I have personally measured the amp turn-on signal at +6v and not +12v

I'll add the pins to the connector later today, do you know which are the female terminals used? Connectors say Molex.

 

[mumbles]

I'll add the pins to the connector later today, do you know which are the female terminals used? Connectors say Molex.

If you're talking about using the Molex connectors, the pins should be Molex Part #34803-3212 from Racemasters "Factory amp plug to rca's" thread
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77679

 

[jsn1]

If you're talking about using the Molex connectors, the pins should be Molex Part #34803-3212 from Racemasters "Factory amp plug to rca's" thread
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77679

I'm referring to the female pins (or terminals, the ones that are crimped to the wire)

 

[mumbles]

I'm referring to the female pins (or terminals, the ones that are crimped to the wire)

Then the part # listed is correct...

 

[jsn1]

Then the part # listed is correct...

Could you please verify on your diagrams which pins go from the DSP to the sub?

You might be right.

 

[TexasRebel]

Could you please verify on your diagrams which pins go from the DSP to the sub?

You might be right.

His diagram doesn't include the sub. Only the 9.

 

[mumbles]

His diagram doesn't include the sub. Only the 9.

^^^ This ^^^

 

[TexasRebel]

I think the missing piece(s) of the puzzle are the subwoofer amplifier and any connectors that go to it. On the OP connector C2385B from the DSP Module goes out to the SUB-AMP using pins 1,2,3, and 9.

The BCM connects to the SUB-AMP via C2280C pin 20.

The SUB-AMP then connects to the SUB at connector C4109B and is grounded by C4109A.

The woofer signal won't properly drive the subwoofer... too high of frequency.

 

[aarshad81]

I understood on the 9 speaker premium car that the ACM signal to AMP for rear is RCA level input. You can tap in to those and wire directly to amp.

 

[cking]

So has anybody got this working yet? I started a similar thread in the Gt350 section

 

[cking]

Was looking through the forscan page and saw a listing that would turn on the subwoofer output line from the head

 

[jsn1]

Was looking through the forscan page and saw a listing that would turn on the subwoofer output line from the head

I've made all the required software changes on the ACM and the DSP AMP and was unable to get any signal.

Based on the diagrams, the low level signal comes out from the DSP to the sub amp, but as far as I've tried, i got no luck.

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