NEED MORE HP

[psssst]

So I went to the track this weekend and the best time I could get out of my car was:

R/T............ .082
60'............. 1.888
330............ 5.576
1/8............ 8.742
MPH........... 77.34
1000........... 11.488
1/4............. 13.823
MPH............ 96.32

What mod should I do next to help out my times?

Current set up is:

16' EB
FP CAI w/FP Tune
265/35-20 P-ZERO on all 4 corners.

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[Ebm]

- More aggressive tune
- Lightweight wheels
- Big turbo

Question isn't what's next. The question is... How big is your wallet?

 

[LuckyJerk]

My next step would be to get a better intercooler because the stock one is pretty bad.
Get colder spark plugs. Even on a stock car you can benefit form it.
Get some kind of Catch Can like a UPR dual valve.
These will make sure that your engine will be more reliable.
After that you can go with a more aggressive tune like Ebm stated. Do something like a Cobb AP and get protuned with Tune+ or whoever you feel comfortable with. Getting the spark plugs and intercooler with a protune you should see some pretty big gains.

 

[Maggneto]

The stock 2015 PP Premium Auto has the same 1/4 time and I would expect the FP tune would bring it down to GT time of 13 on a PP Auto. Do you have a manual or Auto? PP?

http://blog.caranddriver.com/perfor...mustang-gt-versus-2015-ford-mustang-ecoboost/

 

[jbailer]

The FP tune is not a good choice if your goal is 1/4 mile racing. Primarily because it severely limits any other power upgrades. If you really want to race the car, I'd suggest contacting Adam @ Tune+ and go with his lifetime tunes. That way as you build, he will update. You're just not going to be able to make changes on the FP tune that will make an appreciable difference. If you're spinning/hopping you can look into tires/suspension upgrades.

 

[EcoSwag1990]

The stock 2015 PP Premium Auto has the same 1/4 time and I would expect the FP tune would bring it down to GT time of 13 on a PP Auto. Do you have a manual or Auto? PP?

http://blog.caranddriver.com/perfor...mustang-gt-versus-2015-ford-mustang-ecoboost/

smh I told you it would not do that. My LMS tuned auto EB PP with upgraded IC, intake, catback and chargepipes ran a best of 13.2 on the stock tires. The FR tune won't even be as aggressive as LMS and they are probably the safest aftermarket tuner

 

[Maggneto]

smh I told you it would not do that. My LMS tuned auto EB PP with upgraded IC, intake, catback and chargepipes ran a best of 13.2 on the stock tires. The FR tune won't even be as aggressive as LMS and they are probably the safest aftermarket tuner

That is what I would expect from the Premium PP Auto with a mild tune, CAI, and catback. If he has a manual non PP or an Auto non PP there would be a difference in time due to different gears and user error? in any event, the FP tune should shave off some time from a stock Premium PP Auto that runs 13.9 1/4. Does the premium track mode make any difference?

There really isn't that much difference between the FP tune and Livernois. 35 peak HP isn't going to make a big difference.

Livernois Motorsports, already established as a leader for firsts and performance in the EcoBoost world, is proud to announce the release of our custom tuning for the 2015 2.3L EcoBoost Mustang. Utilizing our 93 octane performance tuning, you can see peak vs. peak gains up to 62 wheel horsepower over stock, and 90 additional Ft. Lbs of torque, with maximum gains of a staggering 109hp and 100 Ft. lbs of torque.

FP Tune

According to Ford, the Performance Calibration Kit will give 2.3-liter turbocharged Mustangs an increase of 25 horsepower, to 335, and a whopping 70 lb.-ft. increase of torque, to 390 lb.-ft. That's pretty good for what's basically an ECU tune.

Ford also says the new tune drastically improves the EcoBoost's power curve, increasing power output by 100 horses at 6000 rpm. The Ecoboost Mustang was already a good car, but with this upgrade, it sounds like it could be a seriously fast machine.

 

[Phil@JDM]

the biggest thing is practice and tires. Throwing more parts at a car isnt always the right way to get times down. a lot of times its the driving that needs to be perfected. also some better rear tires would help you stick better and allow you to leave the hole harder thus dropping your 60' times which will substantially lower your 1/4 mile time. if you could get your 60' to a 1.7 you will drop your 1/4 by .36 putting you under 13.5

 

[EcoSwag1990]

What was the 60ft? If it was above 2 seconds then traction was probably an issue. If it was below 2 and he still ran that time then I would think there is something wrong where it pulled power. I think the FR tunes are really just daily driver tunes in general

 

[PewterCam]

If you are looking to get the most out of the FP tune in the 1/4 I'd get some kind of scanning and logging tool. it would helpful to check on things like the Octane Adjust Ratio (OAR) which should be at -1 for maximum performance on 92/93 fuel. Also the Charge Air Temp would be good to look at. I bet the Charge Air temps were over 150 by the end of the run. As the Charge Air temp goes up past 120*F the load limit and timing drop considerably and will aggressively close the throttle. Get it hot enough and it will start to dump fuel as well. How hot was it on the day you ran it? An Intercooler would be the next place to go for mods to keep the Charge Air temps under control and probably be a good gain in power on the tune you have.

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

If you want to be fast buy an Evo

 

[tw557]

With the FRPP tune what is thought to be the best RPM to shift at?

 

[LuckyJerk]

With the FRPP tune what is thought to be the best RPM to shift at?

If you look at the Ford performance description:
https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-9603-M4

It says that there is a 100 HP increase at 6000 RPMs.

This big increase is due to the fact that on the stock tune after 5500 RPMs the power dies which is why you need to short shift then.

With that description I would say around 6000 RPMs would be the new shift point for getting the most out of the engine.

 

[jbailer]

Looking at the dyno sheet, it looks like about 5,800 - 6,000 would be good.

 

[LuckyJerk]

Looking at the dyno sheet, it looks like about 5,800 - 6,000 would be good.

That's the damn sheet I was looking for! Lol

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