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Cardude99
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2016
- Threads
- 69
- Messages
- 2,473
- Reaction score
- 1,060
- Location
- Phoenix, AZ
- First Name
- Sam
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 Ecoboost
- Thread starter
- #47
Holy crap, I think I'm in love with your car lol. Awesome eco. I don't check the build threads often, but do you have one started? I would love to take a look, if not what all have you done?
Cobra Jet
Well-Known Member
X2...
Any additional pics of interior to show dash area and how the roll cage looks there?
Friggin great modded 2018 EB! :cheers:
SVO MkII
Well-Known Member
Yep, it looks good. I'd love to hear how these mods perform on track. Any overheating issues? Oil cooler? Differential cooler? How about the Wilwood brakes? What rotors are you using, any additional cooling?X2...
Any additional pics of interior to show dash area and how the roll cage looks there?
Friggin great modded 2018 EB! :cheers:
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The Baby Driver
Active Member
I don't have a build thread but I will put something together when I am done. This was just the first round to make sure it held up with these changes on the track. Aero hasn't been installed yet along with a handful of other parts.
It does great on the Road Course. I ran a race prepped Hellcat, Corvette and 5.0L last/this year so it has some interesting comparisons to each. What do you mean by a 2018 front end, the whole car is a 2018.
It's a Watson cage, they all look the same but I can grab some before painting I have. Door skins are gone and cut the steel for the side bars. Net isn't on it those pictures and the Power killed switch is mounted yet. This is all the small things we just really wanted to shake down the brakes and suspension. Then make sure everything else could take 12 x 20 min sessions without issues.....or something falling offX2...
Any additional pics of interior to show dash area and how the roll cage looks there?
Friggin great modded 2018 EB! :cheers:
Of all mod the 14" Wilwoods Aero 6's are my favorite. I raced a lot of cars with easily double the HP and fully built but these brakes were amazing. I can't spend the time to try and type out how this compares to many other things but this thing feels great coming into corners and braking is amazing. Power is down but we're working through that. Heat was fine with the upgraded cooling but I think some things will get switched as the car progresses just for better overall capacity but I'll update whenever I do that. Diff doesn't have a cooler yet, I have 3.73's in it and the exhaust is wrapped on both sides with the diff fluid changed. It has Fortune auto 510 6th gen and about every component that can be changed in the rest of the suspension.
Once I get the 2nd set of changes/upgrades done I'll post some more info but the car was barely ready to hit the track. It needs a lot of minor changes, suspension tweaking, engine tweaks, ect. The car is really raw and just needs more time spent on it, but there is only so much of that. Once again the Wilwoods killed it.
SVO MkII
Well-Known Member
"What do you mean by a 2018 front end, the whole car is a 2018."
I was looking at your signature that showed a 2016 EB, but the front in the photos obviously was a 2018. I didn't realize at that time that this was a different car. Got it now.
I was looking at your signature that showed a 2016 EB, but the front in the photos obviously was a 2018. I didn't realize at that time that this was a different car. Got it now.
The Baby Driver
Active Member
Oh I see, not sure why I had the year off on the car. It is indeed a 2018.
Rc18
Well-Known Member
Details man.
Having a highly modded 2018 eb makes you unique lol
Anything else besides those few pics and mod list. That you can share with us?
Having a highly modded 2018 eb makes you unique lol
TheLion
Well-Known Member
I have had a theory for a while that many of the after market tunes are inducing LSPI. Mazda and Hyundai suffered from LSPI death's as they were early adopters of small turbo TDI engines pushing high BMEP in a low RPM range. There are MANY influencing factors of LSPI from fuel spray patterns, to piston head designs to heat management. All of the LSPI resistant mechanical design considerations have been implemented, however Oil is also a component, but is only recently started to address the issue with the latest formulations from AMSOIL, Valvoline and a few others that are now GM Dexos 1 Gen 2 certified.
The failures are almost always a cracked piston. A few bent or snapped rods without cracked pistons, but if the piston fails first, the rod will eventually go as well once it separates and that's why so many had wholed 2.3L blocks and by far the majority of failures where from a piston going out first.
I personalty's wasn't satisfied even with my Power Pack ATM / Ford Performance setup in the end even though it was very good compared to stock, so yes, I stepped up to the V8 with a Power Pack 2 making a little over 455 HP at the crank (or about 405~410 whp). But if the EB is somewhat close to the performance you find acceptable, the FP Power Pack when combined with a good inter cooler will certainly make it a contender to be reckoned with and one that you can beat on without breaking. Reliability trumps power every day. A performance car modification should prioritize #1 Reliability #2 Performance Gain #3 Economy of Use.
Don't forget there are other factors as well, even if it wasn't LSPI killing some of the 2.3's, knock surely was!
The best solution to resist LSPI / Knock isn't catch cans, it's Dexos 1 Gen 2 certified oils combined with proper cooling. If the oil isn't boiling off (cooling) and the little bit that does doesn't induce knock, there's NO NEED for a catch can....I beat the crap out of that car every day, I traded it in at 36k miles and there were no signs of any issues. No abnormal noises, no CEL, no sooty exhaust, no abnormal oil consumption etc. I had it dynoed that summer and made 315 WHP with the ATM inter cooler, Ford Performance Power Pack and 3.73 Torsend diff in 4th gear, not 5th. So that reading is about 1~2% lower than a true 5th gear pull as 5th is 1:1. With a 10% drive train loss that's 349.6 Crank HP (accounting for 1% additional loss of 4th gear over 5th) or 356 Crank HP with a 12% drive train loss and 1% 4th gear loss over 5th. FP claims 335 with just their power pack so perfectly within the realm of the real. Not bad for a FMIC and Power Pack....
That was on a Dyno Jet inertia roller dyno which is rated for +/-1% accuracy tolerance dyno to dyno. SAE corrected numbers, low 80's temps.
1. Inter Cooler
2. Dexos 1 Gen 2 certified Oil with low NOAC rating
3. Thermostatic Oil Cooler (I used MM)
4. 1 Step Colder Plugs
I ran Dexos 1 Gen 2 certified oils and 1 step colder NGK spark plugs. Obviously my setup was making good power for that tune. Drive ability was excellent. I would highly recommend the FP Tune when combined with a good inter cooler.
Garrett, while expensive, is a very well tuned stock location drop in FMIC if you want to keep your AGS and its CARB certified unlike the ATM i used if you live in Cali. Otherwise I'd recommend the ATM I had hands down for a more robust, high flowing alternative. Don't go too big though on the FMIC with the stock turbo, or you'll choke out the flow of the stock turbo at the top end, at least with the Ford P tuning strategy.
I had 3 runs with an ATM and 3 runs with a Levels Gen 3 Street Core on the Dyno. Levels cooling was actually a little better than the ATM (not by much), because it was simply a bigger core, BUT it dropped pressure too much at the top end where the turbo efficiency because more critical. It was cooling the charge air just fine, in fact a little better than the ATM, BUT it was dropping pressure. The stock turbo / FP tuning couldn't flow enough to keep the pressure up. The car, both on the dyno and very noticeably in the real world, would just run into a brick wall (torque drop off) past 5,800 RPM. It was very sudden it just went completely flat. Where with the ATM FMIC, it was more gradual taper instead of sudden torque drop at high RPM. The Top end was definitely stronger with the ATM and the car felt more balanced in it's power band even if the ATM made a small amount more down low, which NOT where the 2.3L needs help. That engine stock is nothing but low end....
I take the same approach with my GT, Ford Performance or bust. With only 17k miles on my 16 GT PP and a replacement cost of over $10k for the Coyote 5.0 if it was out of my pocket, I'm gonna put my trust in the warrantied FP Power Packs even if other tuners can make more power, even the NA 5.0's have seem failures from after market tunes. I also have grounds to stand on should something fail past that point. Unless it is directly caused by the FP modification, it is still a warrantied repair. Like a cam phasor going out for example, which has happened a few times from time to time on 5.0's once the miles rack up. With a 100k power train warranty, I don't want to risk loosing out on all that as well for another 10 HP I can't even discern....
All of the stock failures on this forum were covered under warranty and they always will be so there's no harm in just upgrading the FMIC as well, at least then you can get consistent performance and it's not half bad, specially as a daily driver.
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