Navigation and various Infotainment Upgrades

[plc268]

It's also worth noting, that only the hazards are actually toggle. The rest are buttons made to look like a toggle (they only work if you press up on the switch).

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[OEMRadio]

Question for you!

If I decided to jump to Sync 3 thru you, I would be receiving a new bezel correct? And in that case, the new bezel would be a premium one and thus have the toggle switches? And those would work like factory correct? I know if someone simply plug and play swaps the center bezel, the toggle switches only work one way (up). It's sort of like a momentary button. They don't discern between up or down like the factor premiums do.

Just a small but important detail for me. I'd like to have the functioning premium center stack with sync 3

The mode does not work.. and the second zone does not work

 

[Jww92201]

Pm'd interested in base to MFT upgrade.

 

[mustank]

I would like to upgrade to the 8" screen with the simple (recaro?) trim, and do the low line out adjustment.

I don't want nav or HD radio.

I am also looking to hook the audio output to a DSP. The DSP uses 4 molex inputs. Do you know what will need to be done to the harness to make it compatible. Here is a pic of the inputs.

I will then run RCA from the dsp to the amp.

Do you know how I will add the bass channel? Would I need to do it at/from the DSP, or at the amp? I am assuming I will have to add a Y connection from another channel.

Thanks in advance, and I look forward to getting one of your awesome kits.

 

[xraystyle]

Do you know how I will add the bass channel? Would I need to do it at/from the DSP, or at the amp? I am assuming I will have to add a Y connection from another channel.

If you're running a 5 channel amp you can just set it to send a full signal to the sub if you don't have a dedicated sub output coming from the head unit.

It just sums the front/rear left/right channels internally and sends the whole thing out to the subwoofer.

There are also DSPs you can get that will do channel summing and output to another set of RCAs. You'd want to do something like that if you were running two amps, one for your front and rear speakers, and a dedicated amp for a subwoofer. That's assuming the first amp doesn't have a set of passthrough RCAs, which would do essentially the same thing.

With what's available and what you're trying to achieve I see no reason to go with a Y cable and split a signal anywhere.

 

[Jww92201]

Just received my kit the otherday overall very very happy, can't wait to install it.

 

[mustank]

If you're running a 5 channel amp you can just set it to send a full signal to the sub if you don't have a dedicated sub output coming from the head unit.

It just sums the front/rear left/right channels internally and sends the whole thing out to the subwoofer.

There are also DSPs you can get that will do channel summing and output to another set of RCAs. You'd want to do something like that if you were running two amps, one for your front and rear speakers, and a dedicated amp for a subwoofer. That's assuming the first amp doesn't have a set of passthrough RCAs, which would do essentially the same thing.

With what's available and what you're trying to achieve I see no reason to go with a Y cable and split a signal anywhere.

So even if the amp isn't getting a sub channel input, it can still send a signal on the sub output? Same with the DSP?

I am completely new to car audio equipment. I have no problem dealing with power and cabling, just the way the audio components are designed/function.

Thanks for the help.

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I think I see on the amp where you choose 2, 4, or 6 channel. Is that how it manages the input vs. output?

 

[OEMRadio]

I would like to upgrade to the 8" screen with the simple (recaro?) trim, and do the low line out adjustment.

I don't want nav or HD radio.

I am also looking to hook the audio output to a DSP. The DSP uses 4 molex inputs. Do you know what will need to be done to the harness to make it compatible. Here is a pic of the inputs.

I will then run RCA from the dsp to the amp.

Do you know how I will add the bass channel? Would I need to do it at/from the DSP, or at the amp? I am assuming I will have to add a Y connection from another channel.

Thanks in advance, and I look forward to getting one of your awesome kits.

Hi.. sorry I haunt been on here.. The JL part really is not needed.. the way the ACM gets programmed it becomes a full range signal.. and low level.. so you do not need a line out.. you can add a processor but you do not need a unit to correct the output. The harness I have now.. I have the production ones.. and this week hope to start shipping the programmer along with it.. the harness has 4 channel out and they are female rca. it allows you to grab signal at the ACM as if it were an aftermarket unit.. you do not need a Y most amps have a way to chain RCAs out .. so if you run into a 4 channel you can come out of it into th sub amp or if you run a 5 channel then you can run only 4 channels in because the amp will allow the combining internally of the channels..

anyways.. the audio harnesses are in stock and the 4-8" harnesses are unstuck now also.. so anyone wanting to do the kit DYI.. I have harnesses ready for you ..

Thanks
guys.. I appreciate the ones that have helped to support me and hope to do a better job this year of being on the forums.. I am trying to get some help with the shipping and stuff to help free me up.. I have been having health issues.. but hopefully these will be cleared up and this has really kept me from being own top of the communication as much as I had been. I get very tired very easily.. and between work and my kid I get tied up..and I do not mean to be hard to get ahold of but here is my number 2148656794 if you really need help and want to get ahold of me feel free to call.. it really is easiest because I can work and talk.. Its hard to work and email.. and I can really get a lot covered in a conversation.


Everyone have a merry Christmas.. and a happy new year and hope to have more products out to help you with your cars and to get them how you want them!





Edit : I forgot to mention I have learned now how to make either the front or rear low level only.. so for example.. if you just want a sub.. I can make the rear low level only and the front can stay high to power the factory speakers. so thats nice for the ones that do Not want to amp the whole car.. now that does mean the rear speakers will be attenuated.. but you can eliminate them and have a sub.. but its still a nice option and adds some flexibility..

 

[mustank]

does the Hi to Lo reprogram keep even if the battery gets disconnected?

I will email you after the holidays to set everything up.

Merry Christmas

 

[OEMRadio]

does the Hi to Lo reprogram keep even if the battery gets disconnected?

I will email you after the holidays to set everything up.

Merry Christmas

Yes.. it keeps until someone changes it.. you just have to tell the service Dept to make sure to not do any updates to the ACM.. but if you get the OBD programmer its k.. because if it does go away from someone run the genie again.. and you're good

 

[mkenny28]

Has anyone successfully swapped out the USB on a 2015 with the Sync 3 retrofit and new 2.2 update? I got the USB hub part but the connected on the 2015 is fat and tall vs the long thin connector on the new hub. I am guessing I need to splice some wires to manage it but has anyone else done it yet?

 

[OEMRadio]

You need the WPT-1239 it's the correct plug for the new USB.. you just need power and ground.. you can tap into the wires in the old plug if you had a premium.. if you did a 4-8" you can just tap in the lighter plug

 

[scott_0]

[MENTION=20927]OEMRadio[/MENTION] if I turn off the processing and go with a 5 channel amp, would the factory audio settings still work? meaning the bass, mid bass, treble, fader, etc.

 

[OEMRadio]

Well.. that is where it gets a bit complicated.. with the base model yes.. but the premium I need to program the apim also for them to maintain functionality.. my obd programmer will do this

 

[mkenny28]

You need the WPT-1239 it's the correct plug for the new USB.. you just need power and ground.. you can tap into the wires in the old plug if you had a premium.. if you did a 4-8" you can just tap in the lighter plug

Thank you! Do you recommend wiring in a relay or just tap and go?

Also just read your post about being sick; Get some rest and we are all wishing you a speedy recovery. Happy Holidays!

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