Base System Powered Sub Install w/ Trunk Wiring and LOC

[carcinoid]

Are the powered subs pretty decent? Never used one. Would obviously be easier than getting a separate amp but don't now how drastic the difference between powered and non powered subs would be.

I installed a 12" Rockford Fosgate 300W sub with an Lc2i LOC and I couldn't be happier. Just use the remote to control it and you can fine tune it how you like.

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[plc268]

I had the 10" Rockford Powered sub, and it was fine while it lasted, but the amp stopped working after about 9 months.

 

[PatrickHenninger]

Does anyone know the measurements of that area under the rear shelf? The spot where everyone is putting their boxes, how tall is that spot? I just picked up a free powered sub (by a company that I've never heard of before) and trying to figure out if it will even fit in there, pushed up against the rear seat backs.

 

[KevinG]

What size ring terminal will I need for the seat belt bolt for the ground wire? 1/2" 3/8"?

 

[mumbles]

Does anyone know the measurements of that area under the rear shelf? The spot where everyone is putting their boxes, how tall is that spot? I just picked up a free powered sub (by a company that I've never heard of before) and trying to figure out if it will even fit in there, pushed up against the rear seat backs.

If you place it in the center, you have 16 3/8" to work with... if you push it to one side or the other, that drops to 15 1/8"

 

[mumbles]

What size ring terminal will I need for the seat belt bolt for the ground wire? 1/2" 3/8"?

The terminal I used had a 3/8" hole, but I had to drill it out a bit...

 

[Cobra Jet]

Just curious has anyone tried to add a factory powered sub (enclosure with the amp) in combination with a LOC? I know there was another thread with folks looking for the factory harness to add the factory sub to a Shaker9 system, but many have said Ford did not include the factory harness that would plug into the factory sub amp.

So I was thinking with the info here, it might be possible to somehow LOC in the factory sub with amp.... Possible or not possible?

 

[keltymd]

Anyone have a picture of a rockford powered sub installed? I dont want booming base just something to actually play the low end a bit

 

[mumbles]

Just curious has anyone tried to add a factory powered sub (enclosure with the amp) in combination with a LOC? I know there was another thread with folks looking for the factory harness to add the factory sub to a Shaker9 system, but many have said Ford did not include the factory harness that would plug into the factory sub amp.

So I was thinking with the info here, it might be possible to somehow LOC in the factory sub with amp.... Possible or not possible?

I think that the general consensus is that the factory sub/amp combo is pretty weak sounding and would not be worth the effort. I have the 401a package and have upgraded from the factory sub as there wasn't enough low end to satisfy me.

I am not a basshead, but when you know in a given song that there is supposed to be low frequencies and you can't hear/feel them, it's disappointing!

 

[PatrickHenninger]

If you place it in the center, you have 16 3/8" to work with... if you push it to one side or the other, that drops to 15 1/8"

Thanks, the setup I just got is 15.375" tall, so I may have to center it, unless I just squish it in there real tight.

 

[mumbles]

Thanks, the setup I just got is 15.375" tall, so I may have to center it, unless I just squish it in there real tight.

So the measurement I took is for the metal tab that sticks down on the right & left side of the rear deck... depending on how deep the top of your enclosure is, you may be able to slide it in behind that tab.

 

[sandpiper]

Anyone have a picture of a rockford powered sub installed? I dont want booming base just something to actually play the low end a bit

Rockford Fosgate p300-10. Small footprint big sound

 

[kenstewart2005]

First off I'd like to thank Edwin for the great info and the subsequent contributors. This is my first post and I'd like to add that I too installed the Rockford Fosgate P300 10" sub and wanted to add some additional info in hopes it will help someone.

This install was a breeze and here are some tips below to make it even easier:
1. I didn't cut any wires or solder, I used Posi Taps to tap into the rear speakers. Super fast taps, very secure, and just so so simple.
2. I used a LOC because I wanted to keep the proprietary RF plug in tact in case I decide to sell it someday.
3. I did not run a remote wire since this sub allows you other options and I used "Audio" on the sub panel settings and it turns on and off perfectly.
4. I created my own ground right behind the seat belt bolt in the center that others have used. Just preferred to make one and avoid the seat belt bolt.

Here are some pics of my install. I ran the power wire inside the car, through the grommet on the driver's side. I've seen others run it outside the car on the passengers side, but that just makes me super nervous.

 

[T-S550-X]

Hey all,

With the help of a good friend, we installed my powered sub this last weekend. The sub used was one that I had from 2004. Infinity Bass Link 8". It looks like this but is an 8" sub instead of 10" ----> https://www.google.com/search?q=infinity+bass+link+8%22&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=infinity+basslink+10%22&safe=off&tbm=shop&spd=14960806233747173091.

The amp has a turn on sense setting negating the need for a remote wire. We ran the power using a fuse piggy back in the fuse box on the passenger side kick panel ----> https://www.delcity.net/store/Mini-...XASeRE_5vY1lvpiYK6af8ceIgz6023C-vihoC-Rrw_wcB.

My friend explained that the fuse box had plenty of power for the amp, also negating the need to run directly to the battery. The one power wire was run easily under the plastic trim to the trunk. We did not remove any paneling or trim.

We used a self tapper to make the ground on the bottom of the rear deck, making sure to sand off the paint first.

We also soldered directly to the wiring running from the connection on the rear deck speakers. Everything worked great, except for the sub having a very audible feed back once the car ignition was off. It would not occur immediately except after the car had been off for a couple of minutes.

We initially had the fuse jumped in spot #5 which is the factory sub fuse. In this fuse spot, the amp would stay powered even after the ignition was off which seems a bit bizarre. The amp itself is supposed to turn off within 5 minutes of not having a signal.

We later swapped to the fuse for the windows and noted that the amp power turned off immediately after the ignition was turned off. I don't have the fuse # handy, but so far it's working well.

Does anyone have a good explanation for why the sub was giving the feedback in the previous fuse location ? I would describe the feedback as if the sub was was still playing music and had a constant loud bass note.

So far I'm very happy with the amount of bass the sub is putting out. The S550 trunk has a ton of volume and the sound really can over power the rest of the system quickly. Adjusting the cross over and gain on the sub quickly fixes the issue. I haven't had a ton of seat time in the car, but so far am very pleased.


EDIT TO ADD:

Well, I'm finding this setup does not work as intended. I think there is either something up with my sub or the car really never shuts off as its supposed to because the fuse power does not shut off completely. The five amp fuse popped the other day causing me to lose power to the windows and the sub. Whats confusing is I drove 15 miles without issue while the sub was on and the windows were used intermittently.

The hard part is finding a fuse slot that shuts down with the ignition and also has similar amperage as the sub fuse. I haven't found one that fits the bill yet. I will end up having to run power direct to the battery and also install a remote wire to tell the sub when to turn on and off.

Otherwise, the sub is plenty for the factory sound system and fills in the mids and deeper bass nicely.

 

[kenstewart2005]

Hey all,

With the help of a good friend, we installed my powered sub this last weekend. The sub used was one that I had from 2004. Infinity Bass Link 8". It looks like this but is an 8" sub instead of 10" ----> https://www.google.com/search?q=infinity+bass+link+8%22&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=infinity+basslink+10%22&safe=off&tbm=shop&spd=14960806233747173091.

The amp has a turn on sense setting negating the need for a remote wire. We ran the power using a fuse piggy back in the fuse box on the passenger side kick panel ----> https://www.delcity.net/store/Mini-...XASeRE_5vY1lvpiYK6af8ceIgz6023C-vihoC-Rrw_wcB.

My friend explained that the fuse box had plenty of power for the amp, also negating the need to run directly to the battery. The one power wire was run easily under the plastic trim to the trunk. We did not remove any paneling or trim.

We used a self tapper to make the ground on the bottom of the rear deck, making sure to sand off the paint first.

We also soldered directly to the wiring running from the connection on the rear deck speakers. Everything worked great, except for the sub having a very audible feed back once the car ignition was off. It would not occur immediately except after the car had been off for a couple of minutes.

We initially had the fuse jumped in spot #5 which is the factory sub fuse. In this fuse spot, the amp would stay powered even after the ignition was off which seems a bit bizarre. The amp itself is supposed to turn off within 5 minutes of not having a signal.

We later swapped to the fuse for the windows and noted that the amp power turned off immediately after the ignition was turned off. I don't have the fuse # handy, but so far it's working well.

Does anyone have a good explanation for why the sub was giving the feedback in the previous fuse location ? I would describe the feedback as if the sub was was still playing music and had a constant loud bass note.

So far I'm very happy with the amount of bass the sub is putting out. The S550 trunk has a ton of volume and the sound really can over power the rest of the system quickly. Adjusting the cross over and gain on the sub quickly fixes the issue. I haven't had a ton of seat time in the car, but so far am very pleased.


EDIT TO ADD:

Well, I'm finding this setup does not work as intended. I think there is either something up with my sub or the car really never shuts off as its supposed to because the fuse power does not shut off completely. The five amp fuse popped the other day causing me to lose power to the windows and the sub. Whats confusing is I drove 15 miles without issue while the sub was on and the windows were used intermittently.

The hard part is finding a fuse slot that shuts down with the ignition and also has similar amperage as the sub fuse. I haven't found one that fits the bill yet. I will end up having to run power direct to the battery and also install a remote wire to tell the sub when to turn on and off.

Otherwise, the sub is plenty for the factory sound system and fills in the mids and deeper bass nicely.

Running power from the battery is very simple, see pics in above post. Also, you may not have to run a remote wire since you're tapped into the speaker wires. If your sub is set to auto, it will sense the signal from the wires when the car is on (also stated in your manual). As far as the hum, double check your ground or, depending on how old the sub is, might be a sub going bad but that may be the last reason.

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