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adjustable or fixed

danny0441

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so im looking at steeda cyber monday sale and i see they have their fixed shocks and strut for 370 and adjustable ones for $670 i think my question is should i do the adjustable or fixed ones car is lowered on sportlines and its a daily driver not tracking it but my factory ones are starting to feel a little floaty and bouncy
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jstump2490

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I too an wondering this, I am thinking an inch drop all the way around so would these be suitable? I want a comfy DD that isn't floaty and still dropped an inch so I was thinking these shocks/struts and the Steeda linear ultralites.
 

MtnBiker

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...should i do the adjustable or fixed...?
I want sporty, DD shocks set up for Steeda Sport Linear springs. The odds of me adjusting something once it is right is about -10%. Maybe less. I figure I'd just get a tested and dialed in package the first time and just drive my car. Pulled the trigger on the fixed.
 

RonStang6G

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I have the Adjustable Pro-Action Shocks & Struts takes 15 minuets to adjust them. All you need is to open the hood to do the fronts and a scissor jack to do the rears. I recommend the adjustables because every spring combination has its own requirement. The extra $300 is money well spent. Buy the adjustables and you will glad you did. With fixed valve shocks & struts one rebound setting fits all, think about it how likely will you get it right with one setting fits all.
 

2015Etrac

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I have the Adjustable Pro-Action Shocks & Struts takes 15 minuets to adjust them. All you need is to open the hood to do the fronts and a scissor jack to do the rears. I recommend the adjustables because every spring combination has its own requirement. The extra $300 is money well spent. Buy the adjustables and you will glad you did. With fixed valve shocks & struts one rebound setting fits all, think about it how likely will you get it right with one setting fits all.
How do you like the Steeda's? I'm torn between the Steeda adjustables and Koni's. Right now they're both about the same price. I plan to run BMR 082/089 springs.
 

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Saving that kind of money, naturally, I would suggest adjustable over fixed.

Just my .02 ;)
 

2015Etrac

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Saving that kind of money, naturally, I would suggest adjustable over fixed.

Just my .02 ;)
Just placed an order for the BMR 082/089 springs about 5min ago, now the hard part is choosing shocks. I'm glad the OP asked this question, I've been curious about it as well.
 

RonStang6G

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How do you like the Steeda's? I'm torn between the Steeda adjustables and Koni's. Right now they're both about the same price. I plan to run BMR 082/089 springs.
I like the Steeda Pro-Action Adjustable Shocks & Struts a lot better than the OEM shocks & struts. Read post # 167, 177 in this thread http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56302&page=12 where I written two reviews. There is review by member Bluemustang on the Koni's where disliked them enough to switch over to Ford Racing shocks & struts.
 

Performance nut

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Just placed an order for the BMR 082/089 springs about 5min ago, now the hard part is choosing shocks. I'm glad the OP asked this question, I've been curious about it as well.
I'm questioning what springs to get on these as well. I spoke with Steeda and got their input, waiting on BMR to see what their recommendations are. I was thinking the same BMR combo as well though.

I like the Steeda Pro-Action Adjustable Shocks & Struts a lot better than the OEM shocks & struts. Read post # 167, 177 in this thread http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56302&page=12 where I written two reviews. There is review by member Bluemustang on the Koni's where disliked them enough to switch over to Ford Racing shocks & struts.
You are the king of adjusting these. I don't think I'd have the patience you had on the standard GT springs. I'm skipping installing the adjustable pro-action shocks/struts on the base GT suspension and waiting for springs.
 

Ugly John

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I went with the fixed - I spoke with Rodney at Steeda, and he told me they spent a year developing the adjustable, then another 6 months playing with the settings on various combinations of cars and springs to get the settings where they worked best. Of course, if you're serious about tracking the car, then the adjustable may be better for you. If you're looking for something to put on the car and drive, you should consider the fixed.

My fixed arrived today. Holy cow! A much bigger box than I expected! I was out of town last week, and had a neighbor lady bringing in mail. I'm glad they didn't arrive then and her have to lug them in the house! Unfortunately it'll be after the new year before I get them on...
 

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2015Etrac

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I'm questioning what springs to get on these as well. I spoke with Steeda and got their input, waiting on BMR to see what their recommendations are. I was thinking the same BMR combo as well though.



You are the king of adjusting these. I don't think I'd have the patience you had on the standard GT springs. I'm skipping installing the adjustable pro-action shocks/struts on the base GT suspension and waiting for springs.
I shopped around and listened to reviews and for $169 shipped the BMR 082/089 fit what I needed. If you just want a slight drop that will work well for street and the occasional track trip, they seem to fit the bill well. My buddy is a mechanic and says he really likes the Koni shocks and uses them a lot on customers cars, but the new Steeda's seem comparable and are slightly cheaper. I've heard the Steeda's will pair better with the softer springs though.
 

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You are the king of adjusting these. I don't think I'd have the patience you had on the standard GT springs. I'm skipping installing the adjustable pro-action shocks/struts on the base GT suspension and waiting for springs.
Adjusting shock and strut damping on adjustables really isn't as hard as reading through other peoples' experiences and even mfr tuning suggestions may make it out to be.

I'd say in the beginning just set everything full soft or only a little firmer and drive around more or less normally. This will give seal friction/stiction a little time to taper off, so that extra friction forces aren't getting confused with overly enthusiastic damper settings.

Stiffer springs may well require adjustments in finer steps than softer (OE) springs. But either way, the general procedure is to work from soft up while paying attention as you drive, and backing off when you've reached some definition of "too firm".

On the street, this'll be mainly ride comfort, and you'll back down the adjustments without going so soft that significant tendency for bounciness returns (a little suspension motion being OK and generally street-preferable to harsh slam-bangs over short bumps).

There shouldn't be much need to re-index the adjusters every time and repeat the procedure from scratch, once you've found that the adjustments do stay put once set. Though you might when you've found all the happy places just so you don't have to go through the entire procedure, such as if you're establishing more than one set of adjustment specs (ex., track, street with you only, street with passengers more comfortable with softer damping than you). I've been known to hop out and adjust things down while waiting for my wife to come out of the house, or even mid-trip if the road turned bad enough.

Most of my experience here is also with Konis (yellows), but I have worked with other brands (non-coilover).


Norm
 

yellowstangatl

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How do you like the Steeda's? I'm torn between the Steeda adjustables and Koni's. Right now they're both about the same price. I plan to run BMR 082/089 springs.
Koni makes them both. The Steeda's have a larger adjustment range.
 

West TX GT

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At the sale price you might as well spring for the adjustable. I am pairing them with BMR handling springs. Seeing as they are pretty dang stiff I think the fixed might be set a little too soft, with adjustable there is no worries. I would imagine the fixed work best with a particular Steeda spring and pretty good with the others. I'm sure TJ could steer you in the right direction for springs if you are set on the fixed. If you get the adjustable get whatever spring you want then set accordingly.
 
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RonStang6G

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Adjusting shock and strut damping on adjustables really isn't as hard as reading through other peoples' experiences and even mfr tuning suggestions may make it out to be.

I'd say in the beginning just set everything full soft or only a little firmer and drive around more or less normally. This will give seal friction/stiction a little time to taper off, so that extra friction forces aren't getting confused with overly enthusiastic damper settings.

Stiffer springs may well require adjustments in finer steps than softer (OE) springs. But either way, the general procedure is to work from soft up while paying attention as you drive, and backing off when you've reached some definition of "too firm".

On the street, this'll be mainly ride comfort, and you'll back down the adjustments without going so soft that significant tendency for bounciness returns (a little suspension motion being OK and generally street-preferable to harsh slam-bangs over short bumps).

There shouldn't be much need to re-index the adjusters every time and repeat the procedure from scratch, once you've found that the adjustments do stay put once set. Though you might when you've found all the happy places just so you don't have to go through the entire procedure, such as if you're establishing more than one set of adjustment specs (ex., track, street with you only, street with passengers more comfortable with softer damping than you). I've been known to hop out and adjust things down while waiting for my wife to come out of the house, or even mid-trip if the road turned bad enough.

Most of my experience here is also with Konis (yellows), but I have worked with other brands (non-coilover).


Norm
I agree with Norm. Making the adjustments is not that big of a deal. And once you get where you like the ride comfort you will probably not change the adjustments again. It took me several adjustment cycles to find the ride comfort that I liked best. Also I have non-PP OEM GT springs which are soft and I found that small increments of adjustment are required to find the adjustment position that I liked the best.
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