GT350 DIY Oil Change

[TheDeadCow]

Does an oil meeting the "C" spec exceed the requirements of the "B" spec? I'm not familiar...

I think it does. The Amsoil synthetic also claims the "C" spec as well.

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[JAJ]

To meet the Ford B and C specs, a 5w-50 oil has to pass all the same tests as regular API SN 50 weight but it has to achieve that level of performance with 20 percent less phosphorus than the SN spec allows.

 

[5.2 VooDoo]

To meet the Ford B and C specs, a 5w-50 oil has to pass all the same tests as regular API SN 50 weight but it has to achieve that level of performance with 20 percent less phosphorus than the SN spec allows.

Tastes great...less filling lol

 

[bmarco]

I looked up the cost of Race Ramps and the required extensions -$2500 ! Will need a much cheaper solution for oil changes ! Ideas ? Suppose I will have to make my own. Drat.

 

[bmarco]

Guess I will try the method shown in the pics with the Steeda bars, although that looks pretty tipsy.

 

[Myshelby3425]

I looked up the cost of Race Ramps and the required extensions -$2500 ! Will need a much cheaper solution for oil changes ! Ideas ? Suppose I will have to make my own. Drat.

What are you trying to buy? The long 67" ramps in the link below are more than enough. If you want to add extension to that it's another $116.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/191559201094

And 72" version

https://www.ebay.com/itm/230770561620

 

[bmarco]

Must have misread/misunderstood, that is reasonable, thank you !

 

[firestarter2]

I had to put 2 sheets of paper towel between my oil filter and the wrench or it would spin

 

[Variance]

Having just completed my first oil change, I figured I'd add my own experience to this thread:

-I bought a pair of the 72" 2-stage Race Ramps for this car, which have an 8" lift height. While I was able to fit underneath and finish the job, I found myself really wishing that I had sprung the extra money for one of the 10" lift sets, instead.

-I actually have the same drain pan as the OP, but didn't have any issues with overflowing. It got within about 1/2" of the top of the "pan", but never went any higher.

-My Craftsman 3/8" ratchet, which is about 7.5" long, required me to reach my hand inside of the filter access hole, severely limiting my range of motion. A slightly longer wrench would likely make things a little easier/quicker, so I'm probably going to pick up a 1/2-to-3/8 adapter to allow the use of my longer 1/2" drive ratchet.

-When removing the filter, I tried using the "plastic grocery bag" method that I use on other cars with bottom-mount filters. I'm not sure if I just messed it up due to not being able to see what I was doing, but it, quite simply, didn't work, and I still dripped oil all over the place (including the entirety of my left forearm). For some god-forsaken reason, Ford thought it was a good idea to run wiring through this area, which got absolutely soaked in oil; I think I spent more time cleaning up the mess from the filter than it took me to do the rest of the oil change. Next time I'm definitely going to try the "punch a hole and let it drain" method, instead.

 

[Varekai]

Question about the torque, I have a craftsman torque wrench 931245 which has a minimum rating of 20 ft lb, before I go buy another torque wrench will that extra 2 pounds really hurt anything for torquing down the filter?

 

[Spacebird]

Question about the torque, I have a craftsman torque wrench 931245 which has a minimum rating of 20 ft lb, before I go buy another torque wrench will that extra 2 pounds really hurt anything for torquing down the filter?

Probably not, but torque wrenches get less accurate at the extremes anyway, especially on the low end. You can borrow the right torque wrench from O'Reilly's or AutoZone.

 

[MCarsFan]

A torque wrench with 20 ftlb min will have 20-30% real world inaccurracy at the low limit. I would buy a small 3/8" drive torque wrench. The good ones are costly, but for a reason because measuring the low torque figures is not as easy as measuring 80-90 ftlb.

 

[shelbyman]

I don't think I dripped any oil in the belly pan during my filter removal. In my post you can see I used a trick I learned here on the forums - to punch a small hole in the bottom of the filter before removing it (after breaking it loose of course) to allow most of the oil to drain out of it.

For the oil plug I have written down in my notes: Oil drain plug Ford part number BC3Z-6730-A reported around $6

Updated oil drain plug part number is FT4Z-6730-A $2.88 at my local Ford dealer. I was surprised it was so cheap that I got 3. :shrug: I changed my oil today and will do a write up on my experience in another post.

 

[barstowpo]

Updated oil drain plug part number is FT4Z-6730-A $2.88 at my local Ford dealer. I was surprised it was so cheap that I got 3. :shrug: I changed my oil today and will do a write up on my experience in another post.

Just make sure you torque your oil filter to spec. I always recheck mine before Willow. It usually loosens up some over time. Have you added oil separators? These cars aren't that bad to work on.

 

[torque124]

What are you trying to buy? The long 67" ramps in the link below are more than enough. If you want to add extension to that it's another $116.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/191559201094

And 72" version

https://www.ebay.com/itm/230770561620

Does the 67" version clear the front bumper ok ?

Thanks a lot.

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