Steeda cai vs jlt cai your thoughts

[Stang Racer]

I got my JLT today. Next day shipping is pretty nice! Took me little more than an hour to install it, including disassembling the Steeda kit. The most difficult part was getting the air feed to fit the factory air duct in the grille, but once I did, I realized how flush it needed to be or should be. It also came with the new foam insert for the airbox.

I loaded up the tune and it fired right up like a champ, no codes or anything. It adjusted to the idle fairly quickly - within a few minutes. I took it out for a 10 minute test spin and all went well. Feels very smooth and no issues. The computer is still learning to it and the tune so I can't really do a fair comparison yet. But I'm happy thus far at least and all in all, not a bad way to spend a Friday evening off. Now I'm drinking a beer and about watch a movie.



Looks great I will be going with JLT next, should have went JLT to start with:headbonk:

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[Iceman]

I will for sure be going with the JLT intake with lund tune. Car is just too new right now, not ready for tune yet.

 

[Martman GT]

Edit: Last weekend I set my fastest lap time at the road course I frequent while on the stock box. Next time I go back will be with the same suspension/tire setup and the Steeda intake. That to me will be a better test; long stretches at 6000+ rpm when the motor is desperate for air....

I don't get all the quibbling about CAI's. I've seen a few threads with people who've tested aftermarket CAI to factory air box and have had better results with the factory set-up. This quote from "stoli" for example, set his fastest lap time on the stock box. Also another guy (don't remember his name) at the dragstrip ran his CAI for 2 passes, then during lunch break, put on his stock box and ran 2 passes. Even though the air got worse for the last 2 passes, he still trapped higher on the stock air box.

Like has been said many times before on here. "buy the one you like the looks of, because you're not going to really get any performance gain".

I know people have dyno sheets showing gains, but you don't run your car on the street with the hood wide open and a cooling fan pointed at the grill. The dyno just isn't "real world" when it comes to gains. Just my humble .02.

By the way, I think both Steeda and JLT provide great customer support and am glad to have them as supporting vendors on this site.

 

[Sighlense]

I don't get all the quibbling about CAI's. I've seen a few threads with people who've tested aftermarket CAI to factory air box and have had better results with the factory set-up. This quote from "stoli" for example, set his fastest lap time on the stock box. Also another guy (don't remember his name) at the dragstrip ran his CAI for 2 passes, then during lunch break, put on his stock box and ran 2 passes. Even though the air got worse for the last 2 passes, he still trapped higher on the stock air box.

Like has been said many times before on here. "buy the one you like the looks of, because you're not going to really get any performance gain".

I know people have dyno sheets showing gains, but you don't run your car on the street with the hood wide open and a cooling fan pointed at the grill. The dyno just isn't "real world" when it comes to gains. Just my humble .02.

By the way, I think both Steeda and JLT provide great customer support and am glad to have them as supporting vendors on this site.

This is exactly the kind of nudge i was looking for.

 

[Todd15Fastback]

I don't get all the quibbling about CAI's. I've seen a few threads with people who've tested aftermarket CAI to factory air box and have had better results with the factory set-up. This quote from "stoli" for example, set his fastest lap time on the stock box. Also another guy (don't remember his name) at the dragstrip ran his CAI for 2 passes, then during lunch break, put on his stock box and ran 2 passes. Even though the air got worse for the last 2 passes, he still trapped higher on the stock air box.

Like has been said many times before on here. "buy the one you like the looks of, because you're not going to really get any performance gain".

I know people have dyno sheets showing gains, but you don't run your car on the street with the hood wide open and a cooling fan pointed at the grill. The dyno just isn't "real world" when it comes to gains. Just my humble .02.

By the way, I think both Steeda and JLT provide great customer support and am glad to have them as supporting vendors on this site.

What is this cooling fan you speak of? My car was dynoed on a 96 degree day, inside a shop with no AC. Well over 100 degrees in there, so that fan is blowing 100+ degree air just like if my car was moving, too. A few folks have dynoed these CAI with the hood closed, too. It was about 1.5 RWHP difference between runs. Back to back runs.

 

[SVT Wylde]

Are there any benefits of the Steeda/PMAS metal velocity stack MAF sensor placement v/s the stock/JTL placement of the MAF sensor in the plastic elbow?

 

[Terminator2]

I don't get all the quibbling about CAI's. I've seen a few threads with people who've tested aftermarket CAI to factory air box and have had better results with the factory set-up. This quote from "stoli" for example, set his fastest lap time on the stock box. Also another guy (don't remember his name) at the dragstrip ran his CAI for 2 passes, then during lunch break, put on his stock box and ran 2 passes. Even though the air got worse for the last 2 passes, he still trapped higher on the stock air box.

Like has been said many times before on here. "buy the one you like the looks of, because you're not going to really get any performance gain".

I know people have dyno sheets showing gains, but you don't run your car on the street with the hood wide open and a cooling fan pointed at the grill. The dyno just isn't "real world" when it comes to gains. Just my humble .02.

By the way, I think both Steeda and JLT provide great customer support and am glad to have them as supporting vendors on this site.

I definitely didn't buy my intake for looks I bought it because it is track proven.

 

[Terminator2]

Are there any benefits of the Steeda/PMAS metal velocity stack MAF sensor placement v/s the stock/JTL placement of the MAF sensor in the plastic elbow?

Smoother more repeatable MAF signal due to smooth surface with consistent diameter.

 

[tj@steeda]

Our precision CNC mass air housing provides the cleanest mass air signal ... building clean, turbulent-free airflow into the intake tube is the name of the game!

Best Regards,

TJ

 

[Bluemustang]

Update: after some driving today I can notice the computer learning the car. I had a party to go to way out in the middle of nowhere, and so I got a chance to test out the car a lot more. A lot of roads with no traffic and twisty winds and long straights. The engine felt really strong. I had a blast, it was really fun. Haven't been about to open the engine up like that in awhile.

Only problem I had was once I went basically WOT from a stop (in advancetrac sport mode) and after I hit redline in 1st and went into 2nd, the advancetrac intervened and bogged for my engine for a second at 4,000 rpm before resuming normal operation. Afterwards I turned off advantrac completely and tried it again, no problem. Chirped the tires out 1st and right into 2nd and pulling hard the whole time. I'm not sure why advanctrac intervened like that. I've done this many times before and it hasn't done that.

It feels very smooth and strong. So far I'm happy with this JLT. Can't say yet whether I think it be better than the Steeda as I just got it. And differences between the intakes is likely small in terms of performance anyway. I really like this JLT so far.

I really like how their air box fits flush with the factory air duct from the grille. Very pleased with the fitment overall. For me it was definitely easier to install than the Steeda CAI. But this is my second time installing a CAI on this car so for that reason it was easier. But I found the JLT setup easier to put together personally.

 

[350Mike]

Update: after some driving today I can notice the computer learning the car. I had a party to go to way out in the middle of nowhere, and so I got a chance to test out the car a lot more. A lot of roads with no traffic and twisty winds and long straights. The engine felt really strong. I had a blast, it was really fun. Haven't been about to open the engine up like that in awhile.

Only problem I had was once I went basically WOT from a stop (in advancetrac sport mode) and after I hit redline in 1st and went into 2nd, the advancetrac intervened and bogged for my engine for a second at 4,000 rpm before resuming normal operation. Afterwards I turned off advantrac completely and tried it again, no problem. Chirped the tires out 1st and right into 2nd and pulling hard the whole time. I'm not sure why advanctrac intervened like that. I've done this many times before and it hasn't done that.

It feels very smooth and strong. So far I'm happy with this JLT. Can't say yet whether I think it be better than the Steeda as I just got it. And differences between the intakes is likely small in terms of performance anyway. I really like this JLT so far.

I really like how their air box fits flush with the factory air duct from the grille. Very pleased with the fitment overall. For me it was definitely easier to install than the Steeda CAI. But this is my second time installing a CAI on this car so for that reason it was easier. But I found the JLT setup easier to put together personally.

I've had that happen once but I think it's from hitting the stock rev limiter for to long. It cuts power for a second or so. Hasn't happened since I've got the Steeda tune.

 

[Vinny@JLTPerformance]

Smoother more repeatable MAF signal due to smooth surface with consistent diameter.

Being you're so very well versed in all of these intakes I imagine you have some data to back this up?

We do, we did a lot of testing a few months ago logging MAF Freq and fuel trims of a few of the big names.

What about a 1 piece design vs a 3 piece design? You think a pipe to a coupler to another pipe doesn't cause "turbulent air"?

Both of these systems will perform well on this vehicle, I think I posted more than enough data already to prove that.

Anyway I don't really care to see another 500 post intake thread, but I can post all of our data we've put together if need be.

 

[Terminator2]

Being you're so very well versed in all of these intakes I imagine you have some data to back this up?

We do, we did a lot of testing a few months ago logging MAF Freq and fuel trims of a few of the big names.

What about a 1 piece design vs a 3 piece design? You think a pipe to a coupler to another pipe doesn't cause "turbulent air"?

Both of these systems will perform well on this vehicle, I think I posted more than enough data already to prove that.

Anyway I don't really care to see another 500 post intake thread, but I can post all of our data we've put together if need be.

I've been tuning MAF equipped cars since 08. Most of them turbo and supercharged cars which are usually harder to MAF tune than NA cars (different platform). I've seen probably over five thousand data logs while MAF tuning. I've MAF tuned roughly five hundred cars with a bunch of different intake tube setups. The easiest ones to tune are the ones with the most consistent MAF signal and those have always been the ones with metal tubes at the MAF. The worst ones I ever had were normally a plastic tube at the MAF or the filter right up against the MAF.
If your Intake tubes are nice and smooth inside with no bumps and a velocity stack after the filter before the MAF that helps a ton with keeping airflow straight and consistent. Most of the plastic roto molded tubes I have seen (ex. My Airaid on my 13 GT) were wavy inside the tube and slightly inconsistent inner diameter as a result. Velocity stacks also seem to help signal quality but only if the tube is smooth with a consistent inner diameter at the MAF. As for the multiple piece intakes I've never noticed turbulence issues as long as the couplers and tube changes occurred several inches after the MAF. Changes right at or right before the MAF were always troublesome.

 

[Todd15Fastback]

I've been tuning MAF equipped cars since 08. Most of them turbo and supercharged cars which are usually harder to MAF tune than NA cars (different platform). I've seen probably over five thousand data logs while MAF tuning. I've MAF tuned roughly five hundred cars with a bunch of different intake tube setups. The easiest ones to tune are the ones with the most consistent MAF signal and those have always been the ones with metal tubes at the MAF. The worst ones I ever had were normally a plastic tube at the MAF or the filter right up against the MAF.
If your Intake tubes are nice and smooth inside with no bumps and a velocity stack after the filter before the MAF that helps a ton with keeping airflow straight and consistent. Most of the plastic roto molded tubes I have seen (ex. My Airaid on my 13 GT) were wavy inside the tube and slightly inconsistent inner diameter as a result. Velocity stacks also seem to help signal quality but only if the tube is smooth with a consistent inner diameter at the MAF. As for the multiple piece intakes I've never noticed turbulence issues as long as the couplers and tube changes occurred several inches after the MAF. Changes right at or right before the MAF were always troublesome.

Guess he wasn't expecting your tuning background, huh? :lol:

 

[Terminator2]

Guess he wasn't expecting your tuning background, huh? :lol:

Nope. Search my username on CobaltSS.net.

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