Headers rubbing?

[ColtonimusPrime]

Hey guys, so I was just in the process of installing my boost+ box from Lund when I noticed that some hardware for a clamp on what appears to be an a/c line is awfully close to the passenger side headers. There's a small gap between and it seems as though it has rubbed a little on the header.

I tried to find a way to get to the bolt to maybe take it out and cut a couple threads off of it, but I don't think there's any realistic way of getting to it.

Are anybody else's like this? They're stainless works by the way. Does the motor move that much when revving or is this a non issue?

Thanks in advance!

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[dev1360]

You're supposed to flip that bracket/bolt around when you install the headers.

 

[Gibbo205]

That bolt sets of your knock sensor that then pulls timing, in short flip it around as it is losing you loads power everytime it touches and sets of the knock sensor.

 

[ColtonimusPrime]

That bolt sets of your knock sensor that then pulls timing, in short flip it around as it is losing you loads power everytime it touches and sets of the knock sensor.

Is that really possible? How do I get to the bolt head? I can't even find the damn thing.

 

[jvm051]

Have to unscrew nut from bolt and the back side of the bolt is held in by a clip. Much easier to remove while headers are out. Stainless Works/Power instructions do reference the removal. Unsure how to remove with headers in car... Remove battery box and try and reach that way? May need to shift engine over some as well as tight as yours is.

 

[ColtonimusPrime]

So I pulled the battery box. There is absolutely no way of getting to that thing. And I just looked over the stainless works install instructions, and there is definitely no mention of it. I don't have the ability to just pull the header off and fix it.

I've never had any knock codes or had my nguage read anything over 0 though..

 

[beefcake]

any brand of headers we recommend pulling it

it's a tight fit in there

 

[Terminator2]

Hey guys, so I was just in the process of installing my boost+ box from Lund when I noticed that some hardware for a clamp on what appears to be an a/c line is awfully close to the passenger side headers. There's a small gap between and it seems as though it has rubbed a little on the header.

I tried to find a way to get to the bolt to maybe take it out and cut a couple threads off of it, but I don't think there's any realistic way of getting to it.

Are anybody else's like this? They're stainless works by the way. Does the motor move that much when revving or is this a non issue?

Thanks in advance!

Hmm I just looked at mine and I have about 3 times as much room. I bent the bracket down a bit more just in case. You could shim your motor mounts up a quarter inch to give more room.

 

[armykyle1 [HACKED ACCOUNT]

I don't think there was mention of this in my MBRP header instructions.

I'll look at this when I get home.

 

[Storm728]

My stainless works instructions did not mention that. I read about it however and was able to blindly get some crescent wrench turns on it. I think I unbolted the mounts and jacked up the motor so I could totally remove it

 

[ColtonimusPrime]

any brand of headers we recommend pulling it

it's a tight fit in there

Thanks for the info Beef and everyone else! I was able to unbolt the mount and jack the motor enough to get a small wrench on it and remove the whole clamp. I'll be sleeping much easier tonight.:cheers:

 

[GTBOB]

I recommend loosening the top bolt on each motor mount and prying your engine over to the driver's side a bit too. You are waaaay too close to the frame. It is a known issue for "false knock" to rattle the headers against the frame.

Also be really careful jacking the motor up on that passenger side. The IMRC electrical connections are on the back of the intake manifold and will get crushed into the firewall as the motor pivots up.

 

[armykyle1 [HACKED ACCOUNT]

Is this what we're all talking about? I have close to a half of an inch. Hard to tell from the picture though.

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