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Roush Cold Air Intake

mstngjpm1

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Guys, I'm thinking about installing the Roush CAI into my GT

See CJpony intsall link:

http://www.cjponyparts.com/roush-cold-air-intake-kit-gt-2015-2016/p/CAK171/

I am a bit confused about the video which indicates that the Sound Tube is disconnected and not put back for the Roush CAI- that seems a bit weird in that without this tube surely the intake noise would be less with the Roush unit.

Seems a bit self defeating to me unless I have totally misunderstood.

Any of you guys installed this unit yet? If you have, what do you think of the Intake sound compared to stock? And did you chuck out the sound tube as per the CJPony Install tube?
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Aus-MustangGT

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So what I can tell you about the Roush
1. It is overpriced
2. It isn't a true cold air intake and will suffer from heat soak
 
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mstngjpm1

mstngjpm1

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Thanks Aus-MustangGT

Sounds like a waste of time and money then...

I can't get over removing the Sound Tube!!
 

2-STANG

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So what I can tell you about the Roush
1. It is overpriced
2. It isn't a true cold air intake and will suffer from heat soak
I heard about heat soak aswell & especially in OZ it will be deadly - hence decided against buying Roush! looks nice though :D
 

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Any one have any recommendations on CAI? I am definitely not into roush for all the above. My early thoughts were the Steeda and lately leaning heavily to Airaid. The box will stop heatsoak, the filter is big and protected and you have two tube sizes for tune or not tuned. Plus the sound tube stays connected and its reversible.
 

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dreabc

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I had a CAI high on my list but everything I read suggests that without a tune its a waste of time. The AirRaid probably looks the one to go for, but im sitting back for the moment.
 

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I have the Roush CAI fitted to mine, when driving the inlet temp sits on 1-3° above ambient, depending on how hot a day it is.

Yes, when sitting in traffic the temp does increase, but no hotter than the stock intake would get. As soon as you are moving it drops back extremely quickly.
 

GT Lustre

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I'm not sure if an aftermarket CAI is the way to go. I spent fair amount of time researching this:

1: Many vendors sell CAI's which utilise the vent in bonnet (US spec) to seemingly cool the box via venturi effect when the vehicle is moving. Our vehicles wont have the vent as standard. I'm a little unsure of the aerodynamics going on here. As if you have the venturi effect you are conflicting with the air going into the filter/intake. Hence you are sucking air away from the filter, while the motor vacuum is trying to suck it in. I don't think this is ideal.

2. Some 'open-top' CAI's also utilise a gap from behind & above the LH headlight to provide more air as well as the standard intake from the OEM tube located in the LH corner of the Grill. The OEM opening is partially blocked by its physical location behind the upright of the Grill and not helped by the fact that about one-third of the honeycomb holes in the grill are not open. While the aftermarket CAI's tend to have larger less restrictive(?) filters and often larger diameter intake tubes, this is advantageous when really pushing the vehicle (racing). However can be a disadvantage at low street speeds for low speed quick acceleration response as the air flow in a large diameter intake is slower than a narrower intake tube. There is a write up of this latter effect is on one of the US forums on CAI's (I didn't save the thread).

3. What is the primary purpose of a CAI? To provide more colder and therefore denser air into the Intake and therefore mildly boost performance(?). The Open Box Intakes however all suffer from one issue they provide little or no passive air pressure to the Intake tube while the vehicle is moving. Air pressure from a moving vehicle can also provide a boost in performance, as the motor is not having to do any work sucking air; a form of passive/free forced induction; RAM Air effect.

4. As many people have mentioned aftermarket CAI's tend to boost performance only after a tune. Even the non-tuned aftermarket intakes only provide incremental top-end power increases. Hence no benefit to OEM Intake in low to mid-range. It should be noted that the OEM MAF tube is already larger than the Throttle Body on Intake plenium; so stock is already a bit oversized. You can also tune your motor with the stock Air Intake and get almost an identical result in dyno-power & torque as aftermarket CAI at low to mid-range.

5. For me I would like good response at low-mid end on the stock motor. When you really look at it our spec vehicle it really suffers from a crap unbalanced Header set-up (ie. 50mm on LH Bank and 40mm on RH Bank to go around steering gear, this has robbed our motor probably 30kW across the rev range & numerous Nm's of torque). That's another topic. Can the stock Air Intake be improved to provide a slight boost to performance at not much cost.........well the answer seems to be yes. Velossatech have developed a Ram Air intake that re-aligns the OEM opening with an aerodynamic duct. The Velossatech Big Mouth provides the boost from having cleaner-freer airflow to the filter and increasing the pressure within the Air box when the vehicle is moving; hence easier on engine and thus giving instant response when moving (eg overtaking B-Double from 100kmh). It doesn't so much cool the box or the air in the box is just a pressure increasing device. The installation is relatively straight forward (although you will have to remove bumper....has detailed instructions) and only requires you to carefully drill-out the blocked honeycombs in the OEM grill. See this thread http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39043.. Yes mine is about to be delivered but the car is probably 8 months off (good exchange rates at the moment).

6. Can the temperature of the air box be reduced too? Our vehicles will suffer more than US w.r.t heat under the hood as we have no stock air vents. therefore our stock Air Boxes in the engine bay are under more thermal stress than US cousins. Thus the boxes will conduct more heat from the plastic box walls to the incoming air (especially at standstill and low speeds). I think a solution is to use 3mm insulation foil such as Peel & Stick Thermal Shield (see carbuilders.com.au) and cover the box and the Intake tube to the Throttle Body......I'm not sure about the aesthetics though...it may look cool (poor pun). This will at least reduce the heat transfer by conduction from the hot air in engine bay through the box into the cooler intake air. Anyway that's my thoughts. Cheers
 

VelossaTech

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I'm not sure if an aftermarket CAI is the way to go. I spent fair amount of time researching this:

1: Many vendors sell CAI's which utilise the vent in bonnet (US spec) to seemingly cool the box via venturi effect when the vehicle is moving. Our vehicles wont have the vent as standard. I'm a little unsure of the aerodynamics going on here. As if you have the venturi effect you are conflicting with the air going into the filter/intake. Hence you are sucking air away from the filter, while the motor vacuum is trying to suck it in. I don't think this is ideal.

2. Some 'open-top' CAI's also utilise a gap from behind & above the LH headlight to provide more air as well as the standard intake from the OEM tube located in the LH corner of the Grill. The OEM opening is partially blocked by its physical location behind the upright of the Grill and not helped by the fact that about one-third of the honeycomb holes in the grill are not open. While the aftermarket CAI's tend to have larger less restrictive(?) filters and often larger diameter intake tubes, this is advantageous when really pushing the vehicle (racing). However can be a disadvantage at low street speeds for low speed quick acceleration response as the air flow in a large diameter intake is slower than a narrower intake tube. There is a write up of this latter effect is on one of the US forums on CAI's (I didn't save the thread).

3. What is the primary purpose of a CAI? To provide more colder and therefore denser air into the Intake and therefore mildly boost performance(?). The Open Box Intakes however all suffer from one issue they provide little or no passive air pressure to the Intake tube while the vehicle is moving. Air pressure from a moving vehicle can also provide a boost in performance, as the motor is not having to do any work sucking air; a form of passive/free forced induction; RAM Air effect.

4. As many people have mentioned aftermarket CAI's tend to boost performance only after a tune. Even the non-tuned aftermarket intakes only provide incremental top-end power increases. Hence no benefit to OEM Intake in low to mid-range. It should be noted that the OEM MAF tube is already larger than the Throttle Body on Intake plenium; so stock is already a bit oversized. You can also tune your motor with the stock Air Intake and get almost an identical result in dyno-power & torque as aftermarket CAI at low to mid-range.

5. For me I would like good response at low-mid end on the stock motor. When you really look at it our spec vehicle it really suffers from a crap unbalanced Header set-up (ie. 50mm on LH Bank and 40mm on RH Bank to go around steering gear, this has robbed our motor probably 30kW across the rev range & numerous Nm's of torque). That's another topic. Can the stock Air Intake be improved to provide a slight boost to performance at not much cost.........well the answer seems to be yes. Velossatech have developed a Ram Air intake that re-aligns the OEM opening with an aerodynamic duct. The Velossatech Big Mouth provides the boost from having cleaner-freer airflow to the filter and increasing the pressure within the Air box when the vehicle is moving; hence easier on engine and thus giving instant response when moving (eg overtaking B-Double from 100kmh). It doesn't so much cool the box or the air in the box is just a pressure increasing device. The installation is relatively straight forward (although you will have to remove bumper....has detailed instructions) and only requires you to carefully drill-out the blocked honeycombs in the OEM grill. See this thread http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39043.. Yes mine is about to be delivered but the car is probably 8 months off (good exchange rates at the moment).

6. Can the temperature of the air box be reduced too? Our vehicles will suffer more than US w.r.t heat under the hood as we have no stock air vents. therefore our stock Air Boxes in the engine bay are under more thermal stress than US cousins. Thus the boxes will conduct more heat from the plastic box walls to the incoming air (especially at standstill and low speeds). I think a solution is to use 3mm insulation foil such as Peel & Stick Thermal Shield (see carbuilders.com.au) and cover the box and the Intake tube to the Throttle Body......I'm not sure about the aesthetics though...it may look cool (poor pun). This will at least reduce the heat transfer by conduction from the hot air in engine bay through the box into the cooler intake air. Anyway that's my thoughts. Cheers
Great info here! :headbang:
 
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mstngjpm1

mstngjpm1

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I think it is great info too. Thanks for that!
I doubt that our restricted headers are robbing us of 30kw though. I have come across a half a dozen sources that have stated that the loss is a very small 4-5 kw

The remaining difference in Kw between ours and US is the difference between American (SAE) and European (Din) horsepower measurement

You make a good point too about CAI's with bigger diameter intakes potentially reducing power at low road speed
 

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Aus-MustangGT

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I think it is great info too. Thanks for that!
I doubt that our restricted headers are robbing us of 30kw though. I have come across a half a dozen sources that have stated that the loss is a very small 4-5 kw

The remaining difference in Kw between ours and US is the difference between American (SAE) and European (Din) horsepower measurement

You make a good point too about CAI's with bigger diameter intakes potentially reducing power at low road speed
headers are restricting around 21-26rwkw so yeah I would agree that its quite a bit at the engine. The coyote needs to breathe!
 

Stubai

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headers are restricting around 21-26rwkw so yeah I would agree that its quite a bit at the engine. The coyote needs to breathe!
Interestingly, and I know nothing really other than what I have been told, but I have now had four performance modding workshops that replacing headers is pointless and that they can get 700hp with factory headers.

It has never made sense to me personally from what I know about headers but all cars a different. I just dont get why they are talking people out of getting them.
 

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It might be a bit small but the lines are

Stock 248.4kw

Cai and tune 267.2kw

Headers cai and tune 286.2kw

All completed the same day
 

Stubai

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Now if I can just get Ford AU to respond to my question about headers and warranty and ACCC legislation then that would be great.
 

Jack79

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Now if I can just get Ford AU to respond to my question about headers and warranty and ACCC legislation then that would be great.

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

you think your going to get a reply from Ford AU :headband:
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