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daniel_94kg

daniel_94kg

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Not sure hes gonna want 11.5:1 ...
Think hes talking the ford direct short blocks.
There is a 5.0 and 5.2 both w standard crank available from ford.
That link helped me out. I think I'd go with the 10:1 Livernois has if I go that route. I had gotten all of the information on the ford shortblocks already. They're significantly cheaper
 

Livernois Motorsports

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Thanks for the help [MENTION=8764]Barrel[/MENTION] and [MENTION=19978]sigintel[/MENTION]!

The thing with the Coyote is you can do so much with it! They love RPM, boost and compression. If you want to keep the stock compression, you can work your blower less! This makes it really easy on the block and blower. This is an awesome strategy if you are after max longevity.
 

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Low cost options

I have been looking for the day when I kill the stock block. If heads are still good, you might bolt them onto a few other options:
-rough thoughts here so I could be wrong.

If you have a motor builder handy that you trust....
M6010M52R The 5.2L block will take the 5.0TiVCT heads and since you are FI the GT heads will be fine as you can up the boost to compensate for smaller valves somewhat.
5.2 block is stronger with more cast in support like next option below You will need someone to build it up to a short block or full long and get bottom end in whatever compression you want. $2400+Bottom+Labor

M6010M50R or M6010M50RA $2400+bottom end +labor
-A variant (-A available in a month?)with added drain holes somewhat more drag oriented but not big deal.
Thats the race oriented 5.0 block with more cast in cylinder support. The 5.2 shared some design knowledge w the 5.0 Race block.

Aluminator short blocks for those following along:
M6009A50NAA and M6009A50SCA in the $5300 range. These are non reinforced, thin liner blocks.

There are also some new products in the works from Ford supposedly to release APRIL 22. Not sure if a new 5.2 short block is coming or not. Supposedly a new 5.2 ( google A52XS) long block is coming but not sure on short block version like the other Aluminators so....16 long days...

Then there is just buying a junk yard motor 5.0 TiVCT $3000?, or buying a factory stock crate motor ready to drop in M6007M50A for $6500(no dealing w people).

Moooo poWAa!!!!
 

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daniel_94kg

daniel_94kg

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I have been looking for the day when I kill the stock block. If heads are still good, you might bolt them onto a few other options:
-rough thoughts here so I could be wrong.

If you have a motor builder handy that you trust....
M6010M52R The 5.2L block will take the 5.0TiVCT heads and since you are FI the GT heads will be fine as you can up the boost to compensate for smaller valves somewhat.
5.2 block is stronger with more cast in support like next option below You will need someone to build it up to a short block or full long and get bottom end in whatever compression you want. $2400+Bottom+Labor

M6010M50R or M6010M50RA $2400+bottom end +labor
-A variant (-A available in a month?)with added drain holes somewhat more drag oriented but not big deal.
Thats the race oriented 5.0 block with more cast in cylinder support. The 5.2 shared some design knowledge w the 5.0 Race block.

Aluminator short blocks for those following along:
M6009A50NAA and M6009A50SCA in the $5300 range. These are non reinforced, thin liner blocks.

There are also some new products in the works from Ford supposedly to release APRIL 22. Not sure if a new 5.2 short block is coming or not. Supposedly a new 5.2 ( google A52XS) long block is coming but not sure on short block version like the other Aluminators so....16 long days...

Then there is just buying a junk yard motor 5.0 TiVCT $3000?, or buying a factory stock crate motor ready to drop in M6007M50A for $6500(no dealing w people).

Moooo poWAa!!!!

Well, I have the engine to the point where it can be yanked out. I'm just waiting for the shop to get time for me to be able to get it done. I was going to let them do everything, but I'm trying to save money and time being they told me it'd be months if they're going to do it all, plus I'm saving a few thousand in labor.

I talked to the ford dealer I bought my car from. A stock 15+ shortblock is $2600, they can have it to me in 3 days. If I go this route, I will purchase mmr opg and crank gear, swap the rest of the parts from my engine to the new short block. Id probably put on new timing chains on since I'll have it open anyway, plus my McLeod flywheel and clutch can go on as well. this route would be the cheapest, quickest fix for the shop.

The other route would be a Livernois shortblock, same process as with ford shortblock, opg, timing gear, etc. Basically same cost of labor and all, but about $3000 more for their shortblock.
 

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Well, I have the engine to the point where it can be yanked out. I'm just waiting for the shop to get time for me to be able to get it done. I was going to let them do everything, but I'm trying to save money and time being they told me it'd be months if they're going to do it all, plus I'm saving a few thousand in labor.

I talked to the ford dealer I bought my car from. A stock 15+ shortblock is $2600, they can have it to me in 3 days. If I go this route, I will purchase mmr opg and crank gear, swap the rest of the parts from my engine to the new short block. Id probably put on new timing chains on since I'll have it open anyway, plus my McLeod flywheel and clutch can go on as well. this route would be the cheapest, quickest fix for the shop.

The other route would be a Livernois shortblock, same process as with ford shortblock, opg, timing gear, etc. Basically same cost of labor and all, but about $3000 more for their shortblock.


If you're that deep...do it. Don't regret the decision to save 3k when you're at the ceiling vs the other power plant.
 

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3g is another short block plus a car payment or whatever. Just sayin!
 

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If it were me, and the crank is good, I would just have the factory short block reassembled with forged rods, forged pistons, and billet front goodies.(plus some machining of course)

Of course you would have to find a engine shop that you trust and will stand behind their work.

OP I know lots of stock motors are holding up to your power level, but why put another stock short block in and be limited to your same power level?
 

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The other route would be a Livernois shortblock, same process as with ford shortblock, opg, timing gear, etc.
The factory timing gear does not have an actual aftermarket upgrade. The aftermarket offerings have an almost equal failure rate. I would reallocate those funds to be honest. Billet timing components are a smarter place to drop those dollars!

Livernois offer a short block based on the M6010M50R?
You are talking about $3k basically for a completely bare block...we are offering an already upgraded block complete with oiling system revisions, upgraded fasteners AND custom forged internals for $5500. You are suggesting building a lesser engine for more when everything is said and done.
 

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If it were me, and the crank is good, I would just have the factory short block reassembled with forged rods, forged pistons, and billet front goodies.(plus some machining of course)

Of course you would have to find a engine shop that you trust and will stand behind their work.

OP I know lots of stock motors are holding up to your power level, but why put another stock short block in and be limited to your same power level?
Exactly
Rebuilding your short block with Manle pistons and rods ($1350) plus machining and reassembly ($800) is definitely a better option than paying even more for a factory short block.
After you add the OPG/crank sprocket (a must even with a stock block)you are still less than $2600 a built block after labour .

My engine builder told me it would be a good idea to do ARP head and main studs but not necessary ($500).
You could also consider upgrading your valve springs($500) while the heads are accesible .
I now wish I did at the same time I did the alluminator block in my heliiion car as going to cost me $1K in labor doing it now .

During MMR's recent sale I got all those parts minus the OPG(I was going to use one off a GT350 but probably a bad idea with the number of issues I have seen with "low oil pressure " engine issues) for $2k shipped

I had already had my block examined and builder recommended +0.05 bore Pistons . So building my stock block would have cost $2800(including ARP head/main studs/crank sprocket ).

If I was adding OPG(not using the GT350) another $300 since there is a package deal buying the sprocket/OPG.

I ended up selling the whole set up to a buddy for $2200(Including the block)

This would be a better a block than an alluminatkr which cost close to $5k before you add ARP hardware /sprocket but comes with OPG.

With the alluminator (or other built block on the shelve) you have the shortest down time as my Hellion car was down for only a week more after ordering the alluminator on line .
 
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daniel_94kg

daniel_94kg

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The factory timing gear does not have an actual aftermarket upgrade. The aftermarket offerings have an almost equal failure rate. I would reallocate those funds to be honest. Billet timing components are a smarter place to drop those dollars!

I wasn't aware of that, that few hundred can put elsewhere. Thanks!
 
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daniel_94kg

daniel_94kg

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The decision has been made, I got a little bit lucky today.

Someone had the motor pulled out of his '16 5.0 in order to do a full twin turbo build and he went with a new race block(don't remember which one), etc. his block had very low miles and no issues. They're going to build that block, Wiesco pistons, Manley rods, billet OPG, all new bearings, etc,etc. I should have it down there and they're going to get it started in 2 weeks.

I really wanted to try and make a Livernois shortblock work, but unfortunately it just didn't fit into my budget, and Mark Zuckerberg didn't come through with the billion dollars I asked him for, so a built bottom end w/ stock block is what I'm going with.
 

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The decision has been made, I got a little bit lucky today.

Someone had the motor pulled out of his '16 5.0 in order to do a full twin turbo build and he went with a new race block(don't remember which one), etc. his block had very low miles and no issues. They're going to build that block, Wiesco pistons, Manley rods, billet OPG, all new bearings, etc,etc. I should have it down there and they're going to get it started in 2 weeks.

I really wanted to try and make a Livernois shortblock work, but unfortunately it just didn't fit into my budget, and Mark Zuckerberg didn't come through with the billion dollars I asked him for, so a built bottom end w/ stock block is what I'm going with.


I'm kinda jelly...that combo is 1000rwhp capable
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