Yet another Ported Cobra Jet install completed...

[jmeiers]

Thanks to COVID, I been working from home and bored. Ended up ordering, waiting for shipment, and installing the following:

Ported Cobra Jet manifold (Bret Barber/AFS)
VMP 137 Monoblade throttle body
Steeda CJ Closed CAI
S&B valve cover breathers (keeping my existing JLT catch cans on hot standby in case there are mess/smell issues)

My notes:

1) Install was super easy. I just installed Kooks longtubes back in January, on by back and by myself, so installing this was a breeze to say the least. Anybody can do this!!!
2) As others have explained in previous posts, I cut 2 tabs on the stock fuel rails and then bent the top rail forward and down in front of the bottom rail to clear the underside inlet of the CJ. I included a photo circling the 2 tabs I cut. I used a dremel cutoff wheel and a steady hand.
3) Did not install the included straight water bypass pipe on the driver side to clear the throttle body motor. Instead used a rubber mallet and 2 firm soft taps and simply bent the pipe enough to clear.
4) The bottom driver side vacuum port on the CJ is not 3/8" like the top port on the driver side. It is larger like 1/2" and I only had 3/8" fuel hose on me at the time and everything being closed up around here didn't help. I ended up temporary rigging up a 1/2" clear tubing to a 1/4" NPT - 3/8" barb adapter. Be sure you have larger hose around for this. I just assumed from the other install posts that both driver side ports were the same size. They are not.
5) My motor was already lowered with BMR motor brackets and still used the stock motor mounts. I know others say it doesn't work, and I don't doubt that, but my stock 2019 hood shuts fine and clears my CJ after removing the hood insulation. No cutting or notching of the hood at all. The only difference between my CJ and others I have seen that have clearance issues is that I have a brand new Ford Performance branded CJ and the others have the older Ford Racing CJ. They are supposed to be the same, but maybe the Ford Racing logo sits higher than the Ford Performance plaque and causes the rubbing?

My car was already E85 tuned by PBD and I had my updated initial CJ tune files ready to go and I have made a few datalogs. The car started right up and idled nicely, especially after it was fully warmed up. Overall, the car drives pretty good and my first WOT pulls were AMAZING, on just the initial E85 tune. I just sent in my logs this morning and am waiting for updates before making more pulls but it is totally driveable the way it is now. No stalling and it idles pretty smooth. The motor is flowing way more air now!

Any questions about the CJ install or anybody need help on their own CJ install, let me know. I got nothing but time on my hands and no tracks are open to SEND this bitch!

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[Rich D]

Congrats on the install!

The 3/8” hose will fit over the bottom port. Just throw some heat on the hose to make it more pliable and it will slide over the nipple.

 

[jmeiers]

Congrats on the install!

The 3/8” hose will fit over the bottom port. Just throw some heat on the hose to make it more pliable and it will slide over the nipple.

I still have another foot of the 3/8" hose. I will hit it with my heat gun and try again. Previously I tried with some oil to lube it first and I could barely get the hose over the end of the fitting but then I couldn't get it to slide all the way on to my liking (I have OCD ). Regardless, I already ordered a 1/2" to 3/8" barb fitting and got some 1/2" fuel hose so I will end up good either way. My comments on it were to help a future person because I spent more time on that then anything else about the install.

 

[Cdshivers]

Do you think you'd be able to install the top mounted strut brace over the CJ if you lowered the engine?

 

[Rich D]

Do you think you'd be able to install the top mounted strut brace over the CJ if you lowered the engine?

No. Even with the engine lowered, the manifold leaves a light imprint in my hood blanket.

 

[Cdshivers]

No. Even with the engine lowered, the manifold leaves a light imprint in my hood blanket.

that's really to bad... My future plan is to add the CJ, ARH headers, and a 6 bladed carbon fiber vented hood from Aderson Composites.... I was really hoping those motor mounts would still allow for the strut brace.... however, it sounds like I at lease wont have to cut into the new or OEM hood....

Separately, do you think lowering the engine would have any negative affect on other components because the angle (although minor) of everything attached to it would cause premature wear? (IE: driveline, steering column) I'm also adding a CF driveshaft so....

 

[jmeiers]

that's really to bad... My future plan is to add the CJ, ARH headers, and a 6 bladed carbon fiber vented hood from Aderson Composites.... I was really hoping those motor mounts would still allow for the strut brace.... however, it sounds like I at lease wont have to cut into the new or OEM hood....

Separately, do you think lowering the engine would have any negative affect on other components because the angle (although minor) of everything attached to it would cause premature wear? (IE: driveline, steering column) I'm also adding a CF driveshaft so....

With an aftermarket hood, you don’t even have to lower the motor. I already sold my strut bar or I would go get a picture of it over top the CJ for you. The CJ makes the engine bay look so badass that you won’t want to cover it with anything anyway. I don’t miss the strut bar at all or notice that it’s gone.

 

[Cdshivers]

With an aftermarket hood, you don’t even have to lower the motor. I already sold my strut bar or I would go get a picture of it over top the CJ for you. The CJ makes the engine bay look so badass that you won’t want to cover it with anything anyway. I don’t miss the strut bar at all or notice that it’s gone.

Anderson composites told me that I would have to cut the back of the hood because it's the same design as the OEM even though theres a bout a 2-3in lift... It's all about the back end of that CJ that's the issue. Yes some hoods would have that issue but unfortunately the I want still does.

I'm totally ok with doing motor mounts so long as I know I'm not unintentionally damaging something else...

That being said.... I absolutely agree the CJ makes that engine bay look bad ass! I don't know your background, but you really don't feel any less stiffness without the strut bar?

 

[Burkey]

that's really to bad... My future plan is to add the CJ, ARH headers, and a 6 bladed carbon fiber vented hood from Aderson Composites.... I was really hoping those motor mounts would still allow for the strut brace.... however, it sounds like I at lease wont have to cut into the new or OEM hood....

Separately, do you think lowering the engine would have any negative affect on other components because the angle (although minor) of everything attached to it would cause premature wear? (IE: driveline, steering column) I'm also adding a CF driveshaft so....

You’ll want to at least look at the driveline angles. Even if you get a shaft with a CV at one end, there’s still an ideal operating range for the universal joint at the other end. The general consensus is that you want at least 1* but you also need to keep in mind that the further from that you get, the more “oblique” the rotation becomes. My engine is lowered 1/4” and I took the time to check. Dropping the gearbox crossmember 1/4” put everything right where it needed to be. YMMV.

 

[Cdshivers]

You’ll want to at least look at the driveline angles. Even if you get a shaft with a CV at one end, there’s still an ideal operating range for the universal joint at the other end. The general consensus is that you want at least 1* but you also need to keep in mind that the further from that you get, the more “oblique” the rotation becomes. My engine is lowered 1/4” and I took the time to check. Dropping the gearbox crossmember 1/4” put everything right where it needed to be. YMMV.

Wow! Ok, so there is definitely a consideration to alignment.... Installing the CF driveshaft (will be going with the one piece QA1 for my '17 GT 6spd...) isn't too difficult, but when I decide to lower the engine, would you recommend I have a shop do it so they can line everything up?

I'm just your wknd warrior who can do a bit of mechanical work, but I'm no licensed mechanic....

 

[Burkey]

Wow! Ok, so there is definitely a consideration to alignment.... Installing the CF driveshaft (will be going with the one piece QA1 for my '17 GT 6spd...) isn't too difficult, but when I decide to lower the engine, would you recommend I have a shop do it so they can line everything up?

I'm just your wknd warrior who can do a bit of mechanical work, but I'm no licensed mechanic....

You can do this quite easily at home. TREMEC make an app for your phone that can measure the angles quite precisely. Given that you have a CV at the diff end, all you’re doing is checking the relationship between the flange on the tranny vs the angle of the shaft.
I placed a jack under the crossmember, loosened the bolts and lowered the jack until the numbers were right, then measured the gap at the crossmember and shimmed to suit. Just be sure to double check your work on completion.
Just keep in mind that the app will ask for measurements at both ends because it assumes you’re using a double U-joint shaft, which is far more tricky to get right.

 

[Cdshivers]

You can do this quite easily at home. TREMEC make an app for your phone that can measure the angles quite precisely. Given that you have a CV at the diff end, all you’re doing is checking the relationship between the flange on the tranny vs the angle of the shaft.
I placed a jack under the crossmember, loosened the bolts and lowered the jack until the numbers were right, then measured the gap at the crossmember and shimmed to suit. Just be sure to double check your work on completion.
Just keep in mind that the app will ask for measurements at both ends because it assumes you’re using a double U-joint shaft, which is far more tricky to get right.

Very interesting, I will definitely pay attention to this when the time comes.... That app, just search for Tremec in the app store?

 

[jmeiers]

Wow! Ok, so there is definitely a consideration to alignment.... Installing the CF driveshaft (will be going with the one piece QA1 for my '17 GT 6spd...) isn't too difficult, but when I decide to lower the engine, would you recommend I have a shop do it so they can line everything up?

I'm just your wknd warrior who can do a bit of mechanical work, but I'm no licensed mechanic....

I have the QA1 carbon and I didn’t do anything special and I installed it after I lowered the engine.

 

[jmeiers]

You can do this quite easily at home. TREMEC make an app for your phone that can measure the angles quite precisely. Given that you have a CV at the diff end, all you’re doing is checking the relationship between the flange on the tranny vs the angle of the shaft.
I placed a jack under the crossmember, loosened the bolts and lowered the jack until the numbers were right, then measured the gap at the crossmember and shimmed to suit. Just be sure to double check your work on completion.
Just keep in mind that the app will ask for measurements at both ends because it assumes you’re using a double U-joint shaft, which is far more tricky to get right.

So what is the magic angle or are you aiming for stock angle? I don’t know what the stock angle is either.

I already have the QA1 carbon and didn’t do anything special and am not having any issues but I may measure and try to lower my trans to restore the correct angle. Just need that angle.

 

[Cdshivers]

So what is the magic angle or are you aiming for stock angle? I don’t know what the stock angle is either.

I already have the QA1 carbon and didn’t do anything special and am not having any issues but I may measure and try to lower my trans to restore the correct angle. Just need that angle.

This is nice to know you have what I'm planning to do... I have a very curious question(s) 1). How does it feel after installing? 2). Any noticeable rev changes? 3). I have a theory that using that CF Drive Shaft will actually reduce the loss of power from crank to tires, by chance did you do a dyno afterwards to see if it freed up an ponies?

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