Wiring experts

[WillMunny]

Considering mounting a power inverter in the trunk, but I'd prefer it be hardwired instead of running a plug to the 12v socket.
Anyone ever done this? I only want it active when the car is on, and would probably have to cut off the "cigar lighter" end of the power cord in order to hardwire it. That in itself could be an issue.
Anyways, just brainstorming. Any ideas?

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[NGOT8R]

You can pop out the little panel that holds the 12V socket in the center console and tap into the 12V positive and ground wires. You’d then extend that wire run to reach the trunk. Just curious though, why are you opposed to plugging into the 12V socket With one of these.

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai...i1j7bJrun1AhVNSzABHc8TDAMQ5bgDegQIARBA&adurl=

 

[WillMunny]

Just didn't want to leave something permanently plugged in to the 12v port. May end up using the port in the console though if I can't come up with a better idea to isolate it to the trunk area.

 

[NGOT8R]

I tapped into my console 12V plug to get switched 12V for a trigger wire for my Hitmaster Clutch Hit Control system. I had every intention of doing it the way that I suggested to you, but Amazon took too long to deliver, so I hardwired it in. I did some very careful trimming/reshaping in the console to pass the wires through, as well as some cable ties to keep them from getting bound up, when opening/closing the console lid.

 

[Skye]

Can you provide details what the inverter will power? Electrical load? Something to consider (if you did not already know) as the length of the run increases, so does the resistance of the wire used. For a run from the front to the back of the car, you might need to install a larger gauge wire/s to compensate, especially if dealing with something expecting a specific voltage or handling a sustained or heavy load.

 

[Weyland-Yutani]

Considering mounting a power inverter in the trunk, but I'd prefer it be hardwired instead of running a plug to the 12v socket.
Anyone ever done this? I only want it active when the car is on, and would probably have to cut off the "cigar lighter" end of the power cord in order to hardwire it. That in itself could be an issue.
Anyways, just brainstorming. Any ideas?

Got an inverter in mind? The potential current draw is the nut you have to crack.

Automotive wiring is almost always the absolute minimum wire gauge for the watts and distance involved. I don't know what the "cigar lighter" is rated at, but going from the center console to the truck would almost certainly require the next AWG size in wire.

I dunno, man. If I wanted an inverter in the truck, I'd probably put a separate relay/fuse and size the wiring to the draw. Inverters.... even expensive ones, are pretty flaky. Mixing DC and AC is the Devil and can make fire shoot out of stuff it isn't supposed to.

 

[WillMunny]

I only need 12w while car is on. Looking at something along the lines of this YSOLX 150W Car Power Inverter DC 12V to 110V AC Converter with 3.1A Dual USB Car Charger Adapter Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PJJR7DB/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_N7G2MDG3X848AW1FZXPS

The device I'd be running is forbidden to mention on this forum.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QQUGMK0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_Y9ZMB3ZWMFANAC9BJNTF

 

[ORRadtech]

I dunno, man. If I wanted an inverter in the truck, I'd probably put a separate relay/fuse and size the wiring to the draw.

This is the best way to go.
There are a ton of ways to creatively engineer something but doing it right is going to require a relay, separate fuse and enough of a properly sized wire to get to the trunk.

Based on the way you've asked I'm guessing you don't have the experience or expertise to do it yourself. For that reason I'm going to suggest that you find a good, reliable car audio shop and explain what you want. They will be able to do whatever you need.

 

[Weyland-Yutani]

The device I'd be running is forbidden to mention on this forum.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QQUGMK0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_Y9ZMB3ZWMFANAC9BJNTF

Convert DC to AC in order to run an AC to DC converter. Any idea what the output voltage of the AC adapter for the unmentionable thing is? It might be 12VDC.

 

[WillMunny]

12.0v=1.0A 12.0w

 

[ORRadtech]

12.0v=1.0A 12.0w

Wait, if the device runs on 12v just contact the manufacturer, I'd be surprised if they don't offer a 12v power cord.
There's really no need to go to the expense or trouble to run a 12v to 120v converter just to go back to 12v...
I think you might be trying to over engineer this.

 

[WillMunny]

Wait, if the device runs on 12v just contact the manufacturer, I'd be surprised if they don't offer a 12v power cord.
There's really no need to go to the expense or trouble to run a 12v to 120v converter just to go back to 12v...
I think you might be trying to over engineer this.

See, that's why I ask people who know! You're right, they do (12vac adapter). Thanks guys

 

[Weyland-Yutani]

If the manufacturers adapter outputs 1a you can bet the draw is a bit less than that. I’m guessing the “cigar lighter” is at least 10a, so you could direct wire it to that with 18~20 awg. The safe is probably a solenoid, PIC, and maybe LED for the keypad. Almost nothing.

I’d make sure the “cigar lighter” isn’t hot all the time though. They use to be (I’m old)

 

[WillMunny]

(I’m old)

Me too, lol

 

[ORRadtech]

A 1 amp draw is minimal. There's nothing in the car fused less than 5 amps. Most circuits are 10 - 20.
The power point (no such thing as a cigarette lighter any more) under the front switches comes on with the ignition and turns off 10 minutes after the car is shut off. I don't know about the one in the console.
Either way if you want power in the trunk you will have to do some wiring. Whether that is run an extension from the console or find 12v in the trunk is up to you and your wants/abilities. If you don't feel comfortable with wiring my suggestion of a car audio shop still stands.

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