What do I tell tuner?

[codereddew]

I recently got a couple of runs in at the local strip, but only able to log 1 run:

https://datazap.me/u/codereddew12/drag-run-1?log=0&data=1-10-18-38

Weather was ~45°F at sea level. I left ~1500 RPM and felt the car slide a little on 2-3 shift, hence why I let off the peddle around that time.

But on average, car is only running low 12s though (high 11's at best), trapping about ~117 mph. I feel like this is a little slow compared to some of the other N/A E85R lund tuned 10r80s.

Car mods:
-2020 mustang GT, 10r80
-E85 lund tune
-MT ET street tires (305/45/17 @ ~21 psi)
-Otherwise stock besides some suspension stuff & AWE catback

My questions are:
1) Does everything look okay from a fueling/knockr/saftot/etc perspective?

2) Is there anything specific that I can tell my tuner that would allow the car to safely go faster? I'd like to learn more of the proper terminology so that I can at least properly communicate what I want with my tuner.

3) Also, is there a "normal" value for saftot at idle?

I'm a total noob when it comes to this stuff, so if anyone could help me out, that would be awesome.

Also, here's the time slip for the logged run above:

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[MKL_DS]

The log will tell them most of what they need to know. What were the weather/DA conditions?
Seems to off a bit MPH wise unless you are in CO or something.

 

[FrankieFigs]

Reply to your ticket with the log and let them look it over. Be sure to mention the trap speed. Remember, they may still be backed up from being off for the holidays. I feel 117mph at sea level is a little slow. I ran 116mph at sea level bone stock.

 

[codereddew]

The log will tell them most of what they need to know. What were the weather/DA conditions?
Seems to off a bit MPH wise unless you are in CO or something.

Already sent it to them, but always good to hear other ppl's thoughts/have 2nd set of eyes look over it. Weather was ~45°F at sea level essentially. Even with the slight off throttle moment, it still seems a bit low to me as well, esp. since it was around the same during runs I didn't spin.

Reply to your ticket with the log and let them look it over. Be sure to mention the trap speed. Remember, they may still be backed up from being off for the holidays. I feel 117mph at sea level is a little slow. I ran 116mph at sea level bone stock.

I did let off the throttle partially from 2nd-3rd shift, so that probably slowed me down a bit, but I still would've thought it trapped higher. Besides, other runs when I did not slip, I still was only trapping ~118, so not too far off.

 

[markmurfie]

That let up on the pedal was brief to you but the throttle wasn't WOT again after it for almost two seconds. That cuts a lot of MPH from the trap.

That brief let up on the throttle also cause the transmission to upshift to 3rd, skipping 2nd, probably why the throttle took so long to go back to WOT. This is a big chunk of time you can pick up.

Until you get a pass where you are WOT the entire time and use all the gears available I don't think there's anything that can be done in the tune with out making some thing else like drivability or power output worst. A 27-28 mph back half is fine for a stock weight NA car. Pick up the MPH in the front half by not spinning and staying WOT.

What suspension parts did you buy?
Do you have a video of you car making passes that you can see what the chassis motion is doing before, during, and after the 1-2 shift?

 

[codereddew]

That let up on the pedal was brief to you but the throttle wasn't WOT again after it for almost two seconds. That cuts a lot of MPH from the trap.

That brief let up on the throttle also cause the transmission to upshift to 3rd, skipping 2nd, probably why the throttle took so long to go back to WOT. This is a big chunk of time you can pick up.

Until you get a pass where you are WOT the entire time and use all the gears available I don't think there's anything that can be done in the tune with out making some thing else like drivability or power output worst. A 27-28 mph back half is fine for a stock weight NA car. Pick up the MPH in the front half by not spinning and staying WOT.

What suspension parts did you buy?
Do you have a video of you car making passes that you can see what the chassis motion is doing before, during, and after the 1-2 shift?

didn’t know how much I should’ve expected to lose by letting off the throttle, so thank you for your input. Very helpful!

will report back after I get some better runs in this weekend.

Regarding suspension, lowered on Eibach prokit springs, BMR CB762/010 kits, as well as Steeda rear pro action adj shocks, which I will set to 1/4 turn from full soft next time. I also have the pro action front struts but just haven’t installed them yet.

Don’t have any videos right now, but I will try and get some and report back. What are somethings I expect to adjust depending on chassis movement?

 

[therod785]

that 2-3 shift when you let off killed your time. that 60ft is awesome for your current mods.

 

[markmurfie]

it's good general information on what to do with suspension. There's also tricks you can do by adding/removing weights to certain spots in the car, not discussed in this interview. No one wants to add weight, but sometimes for traction you have to.

 

[IrishStallion]

Your 1/8 mph is way off. I trap 94-95 and 121-122 on full weight pp1 on ps4’s stock suspension wheels etc. If you say you only got 118 not letting out much that is still low mph for sea level - DA. You should be hitting 120’s plus imo.

 

[codereddew]

got a chance to go out to the track tonight. Prep was much better as reflected in the time slip.

need to improve my 60’ but overall, much happier with results which were pretty consistent throughout the night.

 

[codereddew]

@markmurfie finally got around to uploading logs from the runs -- everything look okay?

https://datazap.me/u/codereddew12/011621-dragstrip-runs?log=0&data=1
https://datazap.me/u/codereddew12/011621-dragstrip-runs?log=1&data=1

Also, is the 0.5 to 1° of timing being pulled during each shift normal/negligible?

 

[markmurfie]

Yes looks great! Send that to your tuner and see if they will give you a revision from it.

Negative knock is not pulling timing its adding advance, positive knock would be pulling timing. you are hitting the maximum timing set. You don't want more, you want them to start correcting the rich fuel trims and hope the timing stays where it is and the knock gets closer and closer to 0 with out going positive.

If all goes well your timing will get flatter, and the car will go faster as timing comes in sooner. Where you pick up the most if the 60ft, and it gets harder to keep traction sooner timing comes in.

Its not the way I personally go about it, but there is no question it works well for a tuning company and its customers. They literally turned tuning into the equivalent of a pay as you play phone app. I like it.

 

[codereddew]

Yes looks great! Send that to your tuner and see if they will give you a revision from it.

Negative knock is not pulling timing its adding advance, positive knock would be pulling timing. you are hitting the maximum timing set. You don't want more, you want them to start correcting the rich fuel trims and hope the timing stays where it is and the knock gets closer and closer to 0 with out going positive.

If all goes well your timing will get flatter, and the car will go faster as timing comes in sooner. Where you pick up the most if the 60ft, and it gets harder to keep traction sooner timing comes in.

Its not the way I personally go about it, but there is no question it works well for a tuning company and its customers. They literally turned tuning into the equivalent of a pay as you play phone app. I like it.

Ah I see! It was my understanding that saftot was the timing and knock was whether or not it was retarded, so thank you for that clarification.

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