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What should I do next?

17s550GT

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This year I’ve done a few mods and I’m looking into what to do next. The plan is to eventually supercharge it in the next year or 2. As of right now it’s a 2017 GT performance pack. I haven’t done a ton so far but I’ve done most of the bolts that make sense for now. I’m not really into headers at least for now I’m worried about making it too loud to just drive around in. With what I’ve heard headers with the roush mufflers make the car almost too loud.

What I’ve done so far...

Resonator delete added MRT H-Pipe
Roush axle backs
JLT air intake
Lund tune

So the question is what to do next I was thinking driveshaft or half shafts I’m leaning towards the ford performance ones. Driveshaft I’m not sure what the best option is. I like Steeda or dynatech. Or do I go with different springs maybe BMR and sway bars even though the performance pack has a slightly upgraded suspension compared to base. Or am I missing something that I should do before all that?
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ManBearPig

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E85 if you aren’t already tuned for it. Longtubes with a quiet catback if you are afraid of too much volume. IRS cradle lockout if you haven’t done that yet.
 
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17s550GT

17s550GT

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E85 if you aren’t already tuned for it. Longtubes with a quiet catback if you are afraid of too much volume. IRS cradle lockout if you haven’t done that yet.
I think I’m gonna get the BMR lockout kit and also the Steeda alignment bushings to go with it.
 

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For half shafts check out DSS too. Especially if going FI but even if just wanting a piece of mind running DRs. Ported 18 mani, long tubes, flex or e85 tune all good options.
 

AmericanV8Guy

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I wouldn't touch the half shafts unless you are certain that you are supercharging. In which case, I would only really do it after supercharging it (or right before it), as changing them beforehand is kind of a "waste" (you won't run any kind of risk unless you're pushing high torque numbers found with FI, but even then... only with hard launches at the strip).
Personally, that kind of money is best spent on suspension IMO. The PP is a great package, but one that can EASILY be improved on. For around 2K, you can do full suspension which will completely transform the way your car drives and handles (for the better as long as you purchase good quality parts that work well with one another). That said, if you only enjoy going to the drag strip or live in an area with no twisties, then suspension may not be worth it (although good shocks/struts/springs + IRS subframe + vertical links will make a world of difference to your launches at the strip/on the street). Trust me, if you do a "correct" full suspension build, you will be amazed by what your car is truly capable of. I loved how my stock PP drove, but my full suspension built '16 easily drives circles around it. It can handle some corners easily at twice the speed that it used to when it was just a PP mustang. The only real limitations I have now are my own/needing to buy a harness to stop me from sliding around my seat. Just my $.02. That said, you can also just do a few suspension mods first to get your "feet wet". In which case I would recommend vertical links and IRS subframe braces, as that "relatively" cheap combo will help keeping your car straight as an arrow during launches of any kind.
 

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17s550GT

17s550GT

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I just bought the BMR irs kit with the Steeda bushings compatible with it. What should I go with suspension wise? I was looking into the BMR sway bars or the Eibach suspension kit that comes with front and rear springs along with both sway bars. I don’t want to lower the car really unless it’s a little.
 

Joe 5.0

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I would definitely recommend an upgraded driveshaft (aluminum or carbon fiber), as well as stronger halfshafts. If you're going to boost, look for halfshafts that are rated for 800 HP. Spend your money only once on halfshafts.

Also, you need a good tire and supporting mods for your suspension. Check out BMR's cradle lockout kit, vertical links, and their IRS supporting braces (4 piece kit).

As for exhaust, my headers were my favorite mod! The Roush AB and header setup sounds insane, but if you're really worried about volume, don't take that route.
 
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17s550GT

17s550GT

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I would definitely recommend an upgraded driveshaft (aluminum or carbon fiber), as well as stronger halfshafts. If you're going to boost, look for halfshafts that are rated for 800 HP. Spend your money only once on halfshafts.

Also, you need a good tire and supporting mods for your suspension. Check out BMR's cradle lockout kit, vertical links, and their IRS supporting braces (4 piece kit).

As for exhaust, my headers were my favorite mod! The Roush AB and header setup sounds insane, but if you're really worried about volume, don't take that route.
Is there a difference between the irs lockout and the supporting braces? they look slightly similar I bought the BMR lockout kit would it be compatible with the support braces?
 

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AmericanV8Guy

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I just bought the BMR irs kit with the Steeda bushings compatible with it. What should I go with suspension wise? I was looking into the BMR sway bars or the Eibach suspension kit that comes with front and rear springs along with both sway bars. I don’t want to lower the car really unless it’s a little.
I think that you are on the right track. I personally have a mix of Ford Performance parts and Steeda parts for my full suspension build, and couldn't be any happier with the results. Again, I would HIGHLY suggest going with some vertical links as well as an IRS subframe braces, as these two alone will definitely help eliminate wheel hop. The only thing I haven't added are the bushings, as I don't feel like I need them at all, and really don't want the NVH that is usually associated with them. Not quite sure what is included with the BMR IRS kit, but I'm sure it's a good place to start. Sway bars are also a great addition. Again, the PP has beefier sway bars compared to the "stock" GT, but they still leave plenty of room for improvement. Furthermore, you can go with adjustable sway bars that really allow you to tune how "stiff" you want your car to feel in rolls (keep in mind, too rigid may lead to you ass whipping out at each turn, so I would stick with a "middle" setting). As for springs, I totally understand not wanting to go that low. That said, there are plenty of great options out there that only drop the car about an 1", which again, makes a huge difference. The one thing to keep in mind is the ride quality. Some springs are better than others at keeping a relatively comfortable ride all while improving performance, while others may leave you cursing at the heavens anytime you hit a pothole. The other thing to keep in mind too are progressive VS linear springs. Progressive springs usually give you the impression that you are driving on OEM springs, but then kick it up once you pass a certain compression ratio in turns. Linear springs obviously (generally) remain the same throughout. I personally prefer the feel of linear springs, as you know exactly what to expect at any given moment. I personally have the Steeda Ultralite Linear Springs paired with the Ford Performance Track Shock & Struts, which I love. The overall ride is just slightly harsher than stock, but only on shitty roads; but it's nothing jarring by any means. That paired with all of my other suspension mods (IRS subframe, K-member brace, Rear and Front Sways, Vertical Links, OEM Strut brace, toe links, and a good alignment with proper camber specs for increased performance) make my car feel like its absolutely planted to the ground. Again, not all of these parts are necessary to make an improvement, but if you choose to go down the full suspension road, you will be amazed by just how well your stang can handle.
 

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I went all steeda. Minimum drop springs linear with a 1/2 inch drop,, front and rear sway bars, strut tower brace and g track brace. I also added 305 rear and 275 front nitto nt05's. The car now corners way better and also hooks really good from a dig.
 

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Lighter wheels are a good mod. That with a lighter drive shaft, and you should definitely be able to feel a difference in how responsive the car is.
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