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Cordero1

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How important is it to get the washers back where they were? My marks are off by 1 line on one side. Kinda hard to torque to 203 ft lbs on your own & holding the other side.

20240316_174039.jpg
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How important is it to get the washers back where they were? My marks are off by 1 line on one side. Kinda hard to torque to 203 ft lbs on your own & holding the other side.

20240316_174039.jpg
It's important and what's worse is that the toe is very sensitive to the cam bolt. Have you ever had your car aligned?
 

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It's important and what's worse is that the toe is very sensitive to the cam bolt. Have you ever had your car aligned?
I was planning on it after all of this, I'll probably wait on some new toe links now. I also have the bearings I was going to install with these toe links but that will wait as well. I'll lose it back up & reading that cam washer.
 

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Better all around handling & using up my points before they expired.
You could go to even more trouble and press out the pair of bearings and press them into the rear knuckles. IOW replacing the rubber bushings for more toe stability during hard cornering.

Note that the spherical bearing is wider than the bushing but the fork end can be spread to accommodate that.
 

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I was planning on it after all of this, I'll probably wait on some new toe links now. I also have the bearings I was going to install with these toe links but that will wait as well. I'll lose it back up & reading that cam washer.
Looks like our posts were at about the same time.

I recommend J&M Hotpart toe links. I've had other brand bearings seize up and cause a terrible rattling type noise.
 

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ice445

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Returned my car to stock from the FP tune today (for the 20th time probably). And of course the procal failed to flash twice in a row, so that was a fun heart attack. I mostly removed it to ensure the recall goes smoothly, but I'm also considering just staying stock since being able to run 87 octane in a pinch is nice. I plan to drive to Alaska either this year or next, and there's no 91 most of the way up there, lol. The stock TB also has a less jarring transition between on and off throttle, and the stock intake of course keeps IAT's much lower which is also a bonus for a car that's more daily driven.

It's an interesting lesson to learn when modifying these newer cars, usually you're making compromises more towards what you want versus what the OE engineers figured most people would want. But sometimes they get it pretty close. Not that I'm implying the FP kit is bad by any means, its a nice bag of extras and especially when you're ripping on the car. But IMO for regular around town driving, it leaves a little bit to be desired.
 

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Looks like our posts were at about the same time.

I recommend J&M Hotpart toe links. I've had other brand bearings seize up and cause a terrible rattling type noise.
These are the ones I was going to install today. I planned on taking the whole thing off & pressing it on, but watched a video from LMR where they just used a had tool press to do it so I'll probably go that route. J & M you say? I'll look them up. I am almost positive that's the brand of camber plates I had on my 14'

20240316_184012.jpg
 

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We bought this a few weeks ago and just got these done.

Added rocker stripes, tint, front end PPF, painted calipers, and upgraded sync 3 with Apple car play
 

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These are the ones I was going to install today. I planned on taking the whole thing off & pressing it on, but watched a video from LMR where they just used a had tool press to do it so I'll probably go that route. J & M you say? I'll look them up. I am almost positive that's the brand of camber plates I had on my 14'

20240316_184012.jpg
It's a bit tricky but it can be done with a borrowed ball joint press.
Probably easier with the upright completely removed, but that is an extra hassle in itself.
 

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These are the ones I was going to install today. I planned on taking the whole thing off & pressing it on, but watched a video from LMR where they just used a had tool press to do it so I'll probably go that route. J & M you say? I'll look them up. I am almost positive that's the brand of camber plates I had on my 14'

20240316_184012.jpg
I highly recommend reading @StrongFord ’s post on installing the toe link bearings!
 

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Cordero1

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It's a bit tricky but it can be done with a borrowed ball joint press.
Probably easier with the upright completely removed, but that is an extra hassle in itself.
Will remember that when time comes. Thanks for your help.
 

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Cordero1

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Finished installing Steeda differential bushing inserts & Qa1 drive shaft. Left the exhaust for tomorrow if I get time.

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Stock pedal covers are awful when my shoes are slippery so i figured these would be the ticket-Ford Performance aluminum pedals (standard on the premium trim). I tried installing these yesterday and holy hell was it a frustrating experience and I gave up after destroying my fingertips. The rubber on them is much stiffer than the stock rubber covers since they are connected to an aluminum piece that obviously has no flex.

I read on AmericanMuscle a helpful review where the gentleman used a bicycle tire pry tool as well as boiling the pedals for 2 or 3 minutes to soften the rubber-it worked! Gonna do the throttle pedal tomorrow, just held in with 3 nuts luckily.
 

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How important is it to get the washers back where they were? My marks are off by 1 line on one side. Kinda hard to torque to 203 ft lbs on your own & holding the other side.

20240316_174039.jpg
You should be fine to drive it to a shop for a proper alignment -they will adjust it to the right position.

Have you considered Steeda adjustable toe links that come with a lockout that eliminates the washer and eccentric bolt altogether?
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