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Well that didn't last long. 2020 GT350R DEAD

mk1spyder

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Bought a 2020 350R HEP and made it about 130 miles before it lost all power and went into limp mode flashing CEL. It is throwing codes for the o2 sensor, crank sensor, cam sensor all on bank 1 with a ton of misfire codes. Thought it was the gas (before we could pull the codes) because we had just filled it up at a small country gas station. So I bought some tools and a siphon pump and manually drained the whole tank / checked the inside of the tank on both sides. Filled with more 93 from a different gas station. Then pulled the codes and realized it was more than that. So now it is sitting at a Ford dealer waiting for them to open back up.
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MikeR397

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Sorry to hear. I can speak first hand to the frustrations with these cars as well. Great when the work right though
 

Tomster

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So what were the codes?

Sorry to hear.
 
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mk1spyder

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I said the codes in the first post.
 

Cobra Jet

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I said the codes in the first post.
He was asking for the actual alpha/numeric codes....

Hopefully itā€™s just a loose harness or crapped sensor, but it does like it may be like some others on here where it dropped a valve...

hereā€™s 1 thread for reference:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...-booboo-engine-replacement-experience.137204/

Nothing like putting down some coin on your dream ride and Ford quality control dumps you on your ass in 130mi, eh?

Before you do anything else, call the Ford 800#, get a Regional Rep and a Case number started - doesnā€™t matter if the Service Center has not even checked it yet.

Getting it documented and a Case # early on protects your ass and also puts your ride at ā€œpriorityā€ for the Service Center and Ford to make you whole with expedited repairs. If you squeak loud enough (in a professional manner), you can probably get an extended warranty or a maintenance plan for the inconvenience.
 

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HEP#15

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Really sorry to hear. Hope it's minor and if it isn't that you are back on the road soon. The car is amazing when it's right.
 
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mk1spyder

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I don't remember the numeric codes just that they were hard fault performance codes. I feel like I would have heard more bad noises if it was a dropped valve but anything is possible.
 

Shift

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Sucks that happened to you. Worst case scenario and the engine needs to be replaced, are you going to keep the car or sell it? I think this decision would be a bit easier if they were still in production.
 

460Fred

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Donā€™t want to be a stick in the mud here but...
Are you following break in procedures?
I ask this not knowing if it could even be a factor.
I see you are new to the forum which does not mean much but there are plenty out there that buy these cars and do not know about proper break in. I wouldnā€™t have known if I didnā€™t do my research. The dealership certainly didnā€™t tell me.
 

460Fred

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Proper break in has nothing to do with catastrophic engine failure. Trust me I maintain a fleet of 42k cars of every different brand and none of them get "broken in" properly. Nor do any of the liter race bikes I've ever seen lol. And those are way more high strung than this thing. Whoever built my engine either left something loose or it has a quality control failure on a critical part.
I get what youā€™re saying but Iā€™d also like to add proper warm up before WOT.
I have no doubt you know your stuff in general. What you didnā€™t do is answer the question. There are plenty here that will agree as well as disagree with your break in statement.
And before anyone starts to flame me, itā€™s an honest question that isnā€™t pointing a finger in any particular direction. Iā€™m just curious if you are following procedures.
I have no desire to argue over this and am also very aware emotions are running overboard.
 

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mk1spyder

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It happened after driving for about 100 miles doing high load lower RPM like 3k to 5k in 4th-5th gear just to get the rings seated. It was well warmed up I'm not that dumb.

Anyways I got the verdict back the timing chain straight up came off the entire driver's side of the engine, so it's going to need a new engine.
 
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RPDBlueMoon

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It happened after driving for about 100 miles doing high load lower RPM like 3k to 5k in 4th-5th gear just to get the rings seated. It was well warmed up I'm not that dumb. But you know I thought the voodoo engine could handle what my customers do to camrys on a daily basis.

Anyways I got the verdict back the timing chain straight up came off the entire driver's side of the engine, so it's going to need a new engine. And I'm telling ford to take this POS back.
My leading theory is that the guy that built my engine wore glasses and due to the covid masks he fogged em up and kept working at it lol
Wow timing chain came off? I feel like that's more user error than a defect.

That sucks ass, unfortunately you got fucked, there's really nothing else to say.

At least it happened now vs later down the line, so at least you'll be compensated with whatever decision you do.

I can understand your frustration though, I'd be lying if I said I wasn't nervous with the first 1,000 mile break in.
 
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mk1spyder

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Definitely not user error. The dealer is 100% claiming manufacturer defect. So originally I had mothballed this thing. Bought it back in August. I wasnt planning on ever driving it. But then decided to take it out warm it up get some miles on it and kaboom. Glad I figured that out now vs deciding to drive it 5 years from now and it is out of warranty that would have really sucked.

How in the world could user error cause just one timing chain to snap? If it was something like dropping it from 5th to 2nd gear it would have fragged the whole engine not just one side.

I think the real thing that got me was Mustang karma. I have been talking $hit about mustangs since I was 16, but I really though the GT350R was just a great car and gave Ford some credit for that one, bought one, and apparently the mustang gods decided to play a fast one on me for talking too much $hit lol.
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