Weird Experience Today

[Foxtrot]

Today I went to look at a 2015 EcoBoost Premium in Competition Orange for $25,500 at some dealership an hour outside where I live. Car had leather seats, electric everything and the backup camera which I'd like to have.

Took it out and it was fine, but when we started talking numbers I found they added $1400 in "accessories" to the total price that was NOT included in the final price on their website or on Cargurus. :thumbdown:. I noticed this after wondering why the payments were so high etc.

Anyway, after 2 managers the price got knocked down from 8% to 5% to 3.99%, and -$1400 if they removed the added iphone security addition (annoyed), but at that point I didn't really feel I could trust them or felt like I wouldn't be agreeing on my terms.

Anyone else ever encounter something like this before?

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[CCCP1999]

Most dealers pull stunts like that. They are in bizz to make money.

 

[krahooligan]

1400 for added iPhone security? Sounds like some BS to me

 

[dogiebitt]

Sounds like you should research car buying a little more. Walking into a dealership unprepared is like being a wounded gazelle on the Serengeti.

1. Look up what is on the window sticker for the car you're interested in (not additional sticker next to window sticker..)
2. Find out what the invoice prices for the car AND for the options are.
3. Unless the car is a unicorn, paying over invoice is dumb. Even at invoice, the dealership still makes money on you by: a) about 3% holdback, b) financing.

Negotiate price of car and financing separately so that the dealership cannot modify one while "lowering" the other. Tell them you have you own financing, do the negotiating for the car. Get the final price, take picture of the sheet with your phone. Then ask what financing options they have. Watch their frowny faces.:clap2:

 

[Ground Speed]

Sounds like you should research car buying a little more. Walking into a dealership unprepared is like being a wounded gazelle on the Serengeti.

1. Look up what is on the window sticker for the car you're interested in (not additional sticker next to window sticker..)
2. Find out what the invoice prices for the car AND for the options are.
3. Unless the car is a unicorn, paying over invoice is dumb. Even at invoice, the dealership still makes money on you by: a) about 3% holdback, b) financing.

Negotiate price of car and financing separately so that the dealership cannot modify one while "lowering" the other. Tell them you have you own financing, do the negotiating for the car. Get the final price, take picture of the sheet with your phone. Then ask what financing options they have. Watch their frowny faces.:clap2:

This. :amen:

 

[Beef]

@dogiebitt Well put..... and very correct.

Most people can't grasp the concept that when purchasing a vehicle there are 3 seperate transactions that the deal loves to make you believe that they are tied together so the can play the numbers game to achieve a higher profit....

Trade
New car
Financing

If they giver you a killer price on your trade they will try to make it up with a full sticker on the car or higher financing or great price on the new car but beat you up about the trade ect ect....

 

[Foxtrot]

Thanks, guys. I already know they won't give me much on my 2005 dodge, so I don't even try that route. I have a credit union that offered me 4% so I scoffed at their 8 and 5 offers, but next time I'll go with this advice. Should I do this if I try at the Ford dealer? I'm still thinking of getting the 2016 with the 0% deal, but they're all magnetic, white, black and silver. Would really love some color so I've been looking around.

 

[dogiebitt]

Thanks, guys. I already know they won't give me much on my 2005 dodge, so I don't even try that route. I have a credit union that offered me 4% so I scoffed at their 8 and 5 offers, but next time I'll go with this advice. Should I do this if I try at the Ford dealer? I'm still thinking of getting the 2016 with the 0% deal, but they're all magnetic, white, black and silver. Would really love some color so I've been looking around.

I walked into a dealership and negotiated a deal on a new 2014 Ford Fusion for $500 over holdback. Then told them I'd like to try for the 0% 72 month financing (we knew girlfriend wouldn't qualify, but she did get 1.72% 66 months). Then after all of that was set, I dropped my POS 2007 suzuki forenza on them and pointed out that they were giving an extra $500 incentive to trade in a car. They ended up paying off the balance of the suzuki ($3200... was only worth 3500 at the time) and giving me $500 more incentive on top of that. I basically got the car for what they paid for it.

Never go into a dealership with a negative attitude. Be realistic (through research) and know what you want. Don't let them tell you what YOU want.

As for looking for the perfect car, use this:
http://shop.ford.com/inventory/mustang/results?zipcode=90020&year=2016
Set distance to 100 miles and check your options. If you aren't willing to drive to the dealership yourself, see if a dealership near you will transfer the car for you.

 

[Brando]

^^^ Nailed it. Lol at your comment about asking about financing after.

Also, I thought your comment on staying positive but firm is spot on as well. Don't cave on your position, but don't be a jerk and I bet you get what you want in the end.

 

[Mr Snappy]

Another thing to watch is when they say "What payment are you trying to be at" This is a sucker line. Don't buy a payment, know your budget and determine the car that will work within that budget. Determine the probable payments at home using your home work.

It's already been said, there are only 3 numbers that matter:
1. Final price of new car
2. Trade in of old car
3. Finance % and Term

You must know all three in order to negotiate. If you tell them a payment, they will screw you one or more of the 3 numbers and draw out the term to make your payment.

 

[StoplightWarrior]

Figure out generally what car you want -

find out which local dealers have it in stock

email all of them saying whomever offers the best price is getting your business. You will receive a few back with low offers. Then start from that number and go down as much as possible

 

[daltron]

I would add get financing before ever stepping into a dealership. Credit unions, banks, etc, just go apply to 3-5 places and go with the best rate. That way, once you have picked your car and negotiated the price you can either just roll with your financing or let them try to beat it. Zero worry when rate shopping within a 30 day window too, so don't be afraid to apply for financing from more than one place as it will not affect your credit in terms of 1 vs 5~ inquiries.

 

[Stormtrooper5.0]

Find out your budget beforehand. If you are willing to put $8000 down and make $400 monthly payment for example, that’s it…just leave it at that.

Now don’t go into the dealer and say hey, I want to put $8k down and make $400 monthly payments, they will try to get the most out of you and come back with a much higher number than you wanted. Never tell them how much you are REALLY willing to spend, this gives them all the power.
Instead go in and give them a much lower number (ex: $3000 down and $300/mo), most likely they will come back and say they want atleast $5k with $600/mo or something like that. Work the dealer and they may be able to find a better deal for you or you get the deal that you want, but always stick to your budget, start low and work up, and never let them know what you’re truly willing to spend.

Also if you find that the car is advertised much lower on a site like cars.com/cargurus/etc… take a picture of it and have proof, they’ll have to honor it if there is no expiration date.

For my example, I found this 2015 V6 Mustang with manual for only $21k, very cheap. Well I went to the dealer and they tried to sell it to me for $24k, I told them that it was advertised at $21k but I didn’t have proof….LUCKILY it was still advertised on the cars.com website as $21k and they honored it.

 

[Azzurro]

Thanks, guys. I already know they won't give me much on my 2005 dodge, so I don't even try that route. I have a credit union that offered me 4% so I scoffed at their 8 and 5 offers, but next time I'll go with this advice. Should I do this if I try at the Ford dealer? I'm still thinking of getting the 2016 with the 0% deal, but they're all magnetic, white, black and silver. Would really love some color so I've been looking around.

I got 1.64% for 72 months from Mission Federal Credit Union. I don't know if they are in LA but even if they aren't you can do the deal over the phone and just have them send you paperwork via email.

You would eventually have to come down to sign something but for the rate it's probably worth it.

 

[15wile]

Four Square and Seven cars ago, I got raped by a dealer so bad I couldn't sh*t properly for a week. Got raped on price, accessories, financing, etc... because I focused on the monthly payment. I was a dumb 21 year old kid.

I'm still dumb and gullible, but I'm not 21 anymore. Here's my rules I abide by to get around it:

1. Email every dealership with the car I want, within any kind of reasonable driving distance.

2. Get a CarMax quote on the trade, if trading anything in. Free. Quick. Most dealers will match it if you bitch at them and scan a copy. That gives you a bare minimum on the trade (as always, negotiate for more if possible).

3. Tell the dealers you want no add-ons, no extended warranties, no accessories. Just the car.

4. Tell them you have financing already, or are paying cash. You can change your mind later.

5. Email the quotes back and forth between dealers for awhile until you can't seem to get lower quotes anymore. There's your market bottom.

6. Compare final quote to X-Plan price (X-plan knocks out dealer fees, so remember that) and TrueCar.com quotes. Pick lowest one of the three.

7. Go forth and buy the car. If they try to renege on anything in your emailed deal, get up and walk out immediately. They will usually chase you anyway, and stop the funny business.

I haven't been raped by a sales-weasel since. My asshole still hurts, but that's what happens you pour ghost pepper sauce on everything because you're stupid and singed your taste buds off.

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