Used GT350

[Tomster]

If the 16 has been sitting outside all that time, either look it over real good on a lift or pass. I'd pay the extra 5k for the 17 depending what your base is.

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[lmar77]

What exactly should I look at? The car looks great, all the plastic looks good.
I'm down to 2 cars, they're pretty much indentical, minus the 16 not having the electronics package. But it's also $7k cheaper. I'm going to get it up a lift to check the under carriage, any specific areas there that would indicate an issue? Thanks

 

[Robertscz]

What exactly should I look at? The car looks great, all the plastic looks good.
I'm down to 2 cars, they're pretty much indentical, minus the 16 not having the electronics package. But it's also $7k cheaper. I'm going to get it up a lift to check the under carriage, any specific areas there that would indicate an issue? Thanks

if you can talk them down on the 17 to within $3-4k of the 16 i would say it'd be worth the extra cost. a whole extra year of warranty (assuming time of sale) plus the coolers will be there as well as the upgraded entertainment. def worth the extra $ to me

 

[lmar77]

The coolers are in the 16, since it has the track pack. Agree on the warranty, will try to get them down. I'd pay $4k more for the 17. funny thing, the 16 has less miles.

 

[Robertscz]

The coolers are in the 16, since it has the track pack. Agree on the warranty, will try to get them down. I'd pay $4k more for the 17. funny thing, the 16 has less miles.

what are the asking prices for the 2 right now?

 

[lmar77]

$50k and $57k, the 16 has only 2k miles and the 17 has 7k

 

[Kurac]

That’s a decent spread and the ‘17 was driven. I’d go ‘16 Track Pack. Have them knock even more off the ‘16 and you have a great price.

 

[Tomster]

What exactly should I look at? The car looks great, all the plastic looks good.
I'm down to 2 cars, they're pretty much indentical, minus the 16 not having the electronics package. But it's also $7k cheaper. I'm going to get it up a lift to check the under carriage, any specific areas there that would indicate an issue? Thanks

Look at the boots, tires (indicator of how it was driven), look for corrosion, and the splitter is installed correctly (see thread here), scrapes, no play in wheel hubs.

Also, get a copy of the OASIS report from Ford showing all work that has been done to that car as well as a carfax. Ask a out oil change intervals and if the car has ever consumed oil. How was it broken in? How was it driven? Was it tracked and if so how often? (Nothing wrong with track time, but as long as the oil, trans fluid, and differential fluid were changed then it's ok).

No drips, leaks, and make sure the high pressure oil line recall was performed.

That's off the top of my head.

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