Two batteries dead in a row HELP

[AnthonyA1234]

A week ago my factory battery died in my new 2019 bullitt with only 1500 miles. I left the keys in it so I assumed that was it. I bought a new interstate battery and replaced it and all was good. Now 3 days later that battery is dead as well. Does anyone know what it could be?

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[AnthonyA1234]

All I’ve done that involves anything electrical is reupholster my steering wheel which involved me taking it off and putting it back on. How ever that was over 3 months ago

 

[ice445]

Check your glove box in the dark, see if you can see light coming from the cracks. A few people have had that issue, where it's not latching all the way and running the battery down.

 

[AnthonyA1234]

Check your glove box in the dark, see if you can see light coming from the cracks. A few people have had that issue, where it's not latching all the way and running the battery down.

No no light coming from the glove box, i do have a anti theft tracker in my car however plugged into the ecu so I removed that maybe that was doing it.

 

[lacanteen]

Have you changed anything from oem? hooked up anything? changed anything? tune ? parts? If so start there. if your car is 100% oem and you changed nothing then take it to the dealer for warranty diagnostic.

This

 

[AnthonyA1234]

Update: so I drove to work yesterday with the second dead battery that I jumped and charged yesterday and had no start up problems all day. On the way there the voltage read 13-13.5. On the way back I still had no start up problems however the voltage read 13 when parked and 12 while driving. Is this bad?

 

[AnthonyA1234]

Today*

 

[Rapid Red]

If you can to use a meter. Lift - or + put the meter in series. Meter set to read amp (current), check the reading, 1 amp or more is a problem.

There will be a reading below 1.0 amp, that will be normal for the car to have some. Think active remote access on stand-by.

One more point, if a battery just comes off a shelf and installed. It may not be fully charged, that could take a few rides for it to get topped off.

Alt. works pretty fast so a full charge would/should happen fairly quick. Unless the some problem with the charging system.


voltage read 13-13.5 < good sign system is charging correctly

 

[AnthonyA1234]

If you can to use a meter. Lift - or + put the meter in series. Meter set to read amp (current), check the reading, 1 amp or more is a problem.

There will be a reading below 1.0 amp, that will be normal for the car to have some. Think active remote access on stand-by.

One more point, if a battery just comes off a shelf and installed. It may not be fully charged, that could take a few rides for it to get topped off.

Alt. works pretty fast so a full charge would/should happen fairly quick. Unless the some problem with the charging system.


voltage read 13-13.5 < good sign system is charging correctly

So based off my 12v reading would you say the battery is bad?

 

[Elp_jc]

You know, something is going on with these cars. To begin with, the batteries are marginal at best, with our large engines with 12:1 CR. And my car battery also drains excessively. Everything shuts off after about 10 minutes, so no idea what the hell is causing the drain. I'm leaving my battery connected on a charger all the time now. It loses about 0.07V daily, so if I leave it unhooked, it'd be dead in less than a week.

Finally, I don't like how the BMS works on these cars. On my car, it only charges at 12.0V when driving too. Only when coasting it jumps to 13.5V. That's not good IMO. But if we disable BMS, alternator would probably charge at 14.0V all the time, which is what it does right after you reconnect the battery. It starts dropping after a few ignition cycles. Even after a long trip, and with lots of engine braking before getting home, battery is not nearly fully charged when I check it. So that's not helping. Glad to see I'm not the only one. I also had to replace a brand new AGM battery because it was dead. Fortunately, Advanced Auto did it with no questions asked, but now I know it wasn't the battery. Let's see if other 2019 owners are on our same boat.

 

[ice445]

You know, something is going on with these cars. To begin with, the batteries are marginal at best, with our large engines with 12:1 CR. And my car battery also drains excessively. Everything shuts off after about 10 minutes, so no idea what the hell is causing the drain. I'm leaving my battery connected on a charger all the time now. It loses about 0.7V daily, so if I leave it unhooked, it'd be dead in less than a week.

Finally, I don't like how the BMS works on these cars. On my car, it only charges at 12.0V when driving too. Only when coasting it jumps to 13.5V. That's not good IMO. But if we disable BMS, alternator would probably charge at 14.0V all the time, which is what it does right after you reconnect the battery. It starts dropping after a few ignition cycles. Even after a long trip, and with lots of engine braking before getting home, battery is not nearly fully charged when I check it. So that's not helping. Glad to see I'm not the only one. I also had to replace a brand new AGM battery because it was dead. Fortunately, Advanced Auto did it with no questions asked, but now I know it wasn't the battery. Let's see if other 2019 owners are on our same boat.

Maybe something is off with your smart charge logic? When I'm cruising after starting the car, especially if it sat for a few days, the volts shows as 14.5-15. Never had a battery issue so far. I even went on vacation for a week and a half and FordPass notified me the car went into a deeper sleep after about 4 or 5 days. Still started fine after I got home.

 

[Elp_jc]

I always have the battery fully charged; that's probably why it goes down to 12.5 and 12.0V. But that's not enough to keep the battery fully charged, so it obviously discharges. Will take the car on a long trip on Sunday, so will be watching the voltage gauge on the highway every once in a while, and see what happens. I carry one of those powerful Li-Ion battery packs in case battery needs a jump. Maybe when the battery gets to a certain point it shuts everything completely (deep sleep), but don't want to find out. With the other battery, the charger was red when I connected it after a week. Not sure if car would have started or not. Car is basically new, and the logic is doing its thing, so should be fine. Like many other aspects of the car (5/20 oil, etc), the stupid logic must be to minimize the load on the alternator to save 0.01 MPG. Who knows.

 

[Lime1GT]

You can try this.
If you charge the battery in the car hook the charger +lead to positive battery post and the -lead to a ground on the chassis, not the negative battery post. The negative battery cable has an amp clamp around it. Attaching charger ground to chassis will allow the BMS to calibrate properly. When the battery is fully charged allow the car to sit for 8 hours, no keys in ignition and doors and hood closed. That should allow the BMS to reset to your new battery.

 

[Sigster]

I agree with ELP_jc. There is something weird electrically with some of these GT's. I have 28 month old '18 that just had the battery go bad. I was lucky in that the dealer replaced it for me under warranty, not even prorated, which was a pleasant surprise. But still!

 

[AnthonyA1234]

Just did some tests with my multimeter. When my car is off the battery has 12.5 volts. When the car cranks to start it drops 11volts and then shoots up to 14 then after a minute or two it settles at 13.5. I then turned everything electrical on in my car and the volts didn’t go under 13. Everything looks good to me so if it does die again it must be something drawing power

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