Turbosmart kompact BOV Issues

[EcoSwag1990]

I called Turbosmart on my lunch break and I told the dude that I have it set to full soft and am getting surge and flutter and he just told me to give it a couple turns in the hard direction and play with it some and I should be ok. He also said I would still get some flutter as others have said.

The part about twisting in the hard direction is contradictory though since we're all talking about getting lighter springs so now I'm just confused on whether he really knew what he was talking about or what. I tried it anyway and it only made it worse.

I'm tempted to just take this dumb thing off and sell it

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[EnFOURcer]

I called Turbosmart on my lunch break and I told the dude that I have it set to full soft and am getting surge and flutter and he just told me to give it a couple turns in the hard direction

The part about twisting in the hard direction is contradictory though since we're all talking about getting lighter springs so now I'm just confused on whether he really knew what he was talking about or what. I tried it anyway and it only made it worse.

Yeah I would say there was some misunderstanding/miscommunication.
Harder adds pre-load to the spring making it release later.

The o-ring - yep its tight and is supposed to be. However, it appears that the bore in these manifolds is not very consistent so some are harder than others. Too loose would result in leaks.

And yes, we have worked with Adam for many many years and hes an absolute GREAT guy. I trust him to tune my personal cars as well.

Adam indicated that he was seeing some timing corrections on the dyno and in data logs that we had not seen before. We take Adams input very seriously and started looking further into it.
We found that our alloy block was heat soaking and causing some temp/timing corrections. The other ecoboost platforms do not have the combo sensor in the same location.
So we developed a completely different method that will still allow the best signal possible. This has been shipping for the last month or so.
You wil also note that the instructions had been updated and you can see how it works here - https://system.netsuite.com/core/media/media.nl?id=285709&c=830533&h=92b52a518f94e3b176b0&_xt=.pdf&ck=rfew7jMDArWZ53Hy&vid=rfew7jMDArmZ5yyu&cktime=131819&cart=100270&addrcountry=AU&gc=clear

Anybody who wants the new version, just e-mail [email protected] with your address and a copy of your original purchase receipt.

 

[EnFOURcer]

Now lets talk about surge/flutter.

On some fly-by-wire vehicles (not just the Mustang), when you install a BOV, and a very "open flowing" intake, you may hear some flutter from the intake.
This happens at very low boost levels.
Their are two things at work here, the tuning (Adam eluded to it earlier) and the pressure drop across the IC.
Please note that there is significantly more pressure on the hot side of the IC than at the intake manifold. This is the pressure differential and mechanical BOV's operate specifically based on this differential.
This is why the BOV needs to be on the turbo side of the IC on these vehicles.
Now you may be making 5 psi of boost at the compressor and still not registering anything at the intake manifold . At times, when you lift off the throttle there may not be enough pressure differential to allow the valve to open fully. Now it is still opening the re-circ port, and you can hear it, but its not always a smooth "woosh".

So, I can assure you that you are not specifically stopping the wheel speed nor damaging your turbo.
Now, if you are into positive manifold pressure and this is occurring, yes something must be done (like the guy that didnt read the instructions and forgot to connect the vacuum line - I wont mention your name). They dont come with "extra parts" - lol

Remember that the valve must have enough spring pressure to provide a good seal to actually realize a performance benefit. We want that valve 100% sealed so that the motor gets 100% of that precious air the turbo is creating (unlike the OEM valve).
If having a silly soft spring was the answer, it would come with one ;-)

For those people that absolutely want the quickest reactive valve possible that will never surge or flutter, the Smart Port was designed specifically for that. However, we have even had some comments that "its over active" and vents too easy - LOL

Another option people can try is to get the Mustang PB spring and install it in their DP valve. It is a bit softer.

 

[EcoSwag1990]

Awesome information there, much appreciated. Is there a Smart Port for the mustang EB yet? or would that require a different charge pipe fitting? I'm pretty used to the sound of constant venting now after running the stock BPV and the mishi intake for a while.

Also which spring comes in the plumb back valve?

 

[Tune+]

It requires a charge pipe upgrade in order to install a smartport. MAP makes a kit.

Marty - What do you think about sourcing vacuum at the compressor cover to fix the issue?

 

[EnFOURcer]

It requires a charge pipe upgrade in order to install a smartport. MAP makes a kit.

Marty - What do you think about sourcing vacuum at the compressor cover to fix the issue?

Vacuum at the compressor cover?
You mean the inlet? The cover will never have vacuum.

 

[EnFOURcer]

Also which spring comes in the plumb back valve?

0203-1069

 

[ronv95]

That it does, that is where your charge air temp comes from

What does the sensor on the outlet side of the intercooler do?

 

[Tune+]

TIP Sensor. Pre-throttle pressure.

 

[ronv95]

TIP Sensor. Pre-throttle pressure.

Gotcha, thx.

 

[EnFOURcer]

TIP Sensor. Pre-throttle pressure.

So, lets get into that.
The absolute ideal BOV/BPV solution would be TPS based. This is similar to the OEM's strategies except they also employ safeties like torque management, boost targets etc (nannies) to use the BPV as a limiting device. We dont like "nannies" ;-)

You would use a VERY light spring in your valve and utilize a pressure only source connected to the cap (the comp cover is ideal). This pressure will keep the valve always sealed and the more boost you run, the tighter that seal.

You would then use a solenoid in that line that will clamp the pressure.
You would use an output from the ECU with a strategy that follows the TPS signal which would them remove the pressure signal holding the valve shut at your programmed parameter.

OR, you can use an intelligent BOV controller like this - http://www.turbosmartdirect.com/Product-Categories/BOV-Controller/BOV-controller-kit-controller-and-hardware-only-NO-BOV-BLACK.html which was originally developed for Diesels (no vacuum) and Pro drag racing.

This results in a BOV that will literally respond in milliseconds and always "follow your foot".
This isn't a theory.

I know this works because I have been doing it for years now ;-)

 

[neodark]

saving for later...

 

[Punchy04]

Great info. And thanks. I've replace my oring twice on my tap now because of tears in the oring.

 

[Evil87GN]

Adam.....think that would have affected the data on the logs I've sent you? I have the original style that goes under the TMAP as the vac source. I know what I'll be changing this weekend.....time for a new vac source and toss the adapter in the toolbox...lol.

 

[neodark]

Adam.....think that would have affected the data on the logs I've sent you? I have the original style that goes under the TMAP as the vac source. I know what I'll be changing this weekend.....time for a new vac source and toss the adapter in the toolbox...lol.

That's exactly my concern... As mine uses as well.

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