Trying to track this rattle down...

[Ock]

This is when i am slightly revving in park. 1-2k rpms. Sounds like its coming from underneath but i dont really know. To me it sounds like heat shield or a loose exhaust bolt. Thoughts?

Sponsored

 

[gmupatriot]

This is when i am slightly revving in park. 1-2k rpms. Sounds like its coming from underneath but i dont really know. To me it sounds like heat shield or a loose exhaust bolt. Thoughts?

I have close to 44K miles on my 2018 GT and I get this rattle too. Sounds like timing chain tensioner. Never had it looked at though as it never caused any issues in driving. Maybe it is an issue but most dealerships look away from this and call it normal.

 

[Ock]

I have close to 44K miles on my 2018 GT and I get this rattle too. Sounds like timing chain tensioner. Never had it looked at though as it never caused any issues in driving. Maybe it is an issue but most dealerships look away from this and call it normal.

ok cool ty. Ive got 5yr warranty... ima drive it like i stole it.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Check the trans block spacer plate, it’s a common issue across the S550 and F150 platform:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/engine-transmission-plate-noise-fix.115718/

Also check the emergency brake cable and attaching assembly found under the driver side trans tunnel. This has been a known source of metallic rattle as well and is hard to replicate unless in a certain RPM range. The cable is loose and raps against the trans tunnel under certain conditions OR could be touching exhaust mid pipe. How to adjust the cable and assembly:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/how-to-adjust-your-parking-brake.25204/

if looking at both from under the car, yes visually they will look “fine”, but take a closer look to make sure both are not a source of the rattle.

 

[Ock]

Check the trans block spacer plate, it’s a common issue across the S550 and F150 platform:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/engine-transmission-plate-noise-fix.115718/

Also check the emergency brake cable and attaching assembly found under the driver side trans tunnel. This has been a known source of metallic rattle as well and is hard to replicate unless in a certain RPM range. The cable is loose and raps against the trans tunnel under certain conditions OR could be touching exhaust mid pipe. How to adjust the cable and assembly:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/how-to-adjust-your-parking-brake.25204/

if looking at both from under the car, yes visually they will look “fine”, but take a closer look to make sure both are not a source of the rattle.

will do. ty for replying

 

[Ock]

Check the trans block spacer plate, it’s a common issue across the S550 and F150 platform:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/engine-transmission-plate-noise-fix.115718/

Also check the emergency brake cable and attaching assembly found under the driver side trans tunnel. This has been a known source of metallic rattle as well and is hard to replicate unless in a certain RPM range. The cable is loose and raps against the trans tunnel under certain conditions OR could be touching exhaust mid pipe. How to adjust the cable and assembly:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/how-to-adjust-your-parking-brake.25204/

if looking at both from under the car, yes visually they will look “fine”, but take a closer look to make sure both are not a source of the rattle.

so is this just a matter of jacking it up and giving these a jiggle? I wonder if dealer will fix under warranty?

 

[Cobra Jet]

so is this just a matter of jacking it up and giving these a jiggle? I wonder if dealer will fix under warranty?

If you're doing a DIY at home - yes, safely jack up the car and secure it.

The e-brake cable is along the driver side of the trans tunnel. It should not be real loose, and certainly not enough that it can tap on the trans tunnel, the driveshaft or the exhaust. The e-brake thread has images and details.

The trans to engine spacer plate - see if it's loose. Again check the thread about that one as it too has images and the remedies.

Both should be covered under the Ford new car 3/36 warranty if still applicable.

 

[Ock]

If you're doing a DIY at home - yes, safely jack up the car and secure it.

The e-brake cable is along the driver side of the trans tunnel. It should not be real loose, and certainly not enough that it can tap on the trans tunnel, the driveshaft or the exhaust. The e-brake thread has images and details.

The trans to engine spacer plate - see if it's loose. Again check the thread about that one as it too has images and the remedies.

Both should be covered under the Ford new car 3/36 warranty if still applicable.

Cool thanks, im gonna check it asap. I have appt on 9/22 @Ford. Its should be covered, only 12k miles and i got it used so i got extended for next 5 years.

I drove it tonight and now its all i hear, no a/c on and windows down. I def got into it and it accelerated fine and shifted ok but noise is there and i cant UN-hear it...

 

[Cobra Jet]

Cool thanks, im gonna check it asap. I have appt on 9/22 @Ford. Its should be covered, only 12k miles and i got it used so i got extended for next 5 years.

I drove it tonight and now its all i hear, no a/c on and windows down. I def got into it and it accelerated fine and shifted ok but noise is there and i cant UN-hear it...

1 more thing to check if you're getting under it:
Loose exhaust or exhaust clamps - if clamps are loose most notable sign will be seepage of exhaust gases (black soot on pipe at the joint where clamp is located).

 

[Ock]

1 more thing to check if you're getting under it:
Loose exhaust or exhaust clamps - if clamps are loose most notable sign will be seepage of exhaust gases (black soot on pipe at the joint where clamp is located).

Cool ty.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I just traced a gnarly rattle down. Thought it was the ebrake, because it was very close to that, an my ebrake was loose as hell, but after tightening that the sound didn't go away.

There's a 3"x4" plate riveted with two rivets to the bearing holding the middle of the two-piece driveshaft. The rivets have loosened a small amount over time, so that plate is free to vibrate and bang around. Its like it was designed to make noise after the car went out of warranty. Rivets can't even be tightened. I'm not sure what it's doing other than shielding the hot exhaust from maybe grease coming out of that bearing. Anyway some metal tape on that part killed the sound, not sure that's a permanent fix, but now I know what to the noise and racket was about, and its silent for now.

(I also tore out the entire center console and passenger seat, because I assumed at first it was coming from w/in the cabin.)

 

[Ock]

I just traced a gnarly rattle down. Thought it was the ebrake, because it was very close to that, an my ebrake was loose as hell, but after tightening that the sound didn't go away.

There's a 3"x4" plate riveted with two rivets to the bearing holding the middle of the two-piece driveshaft. The rivets have loosened a small amount over time, so that plate is free to vibrate and bang around. Its like it was designed to make noise after the car went out of warranty. Rivets can't even be tightened. I'm not sure what it's doing other than shielding the hot exhaust from maybe grease coming out of that bearing. Anyway some metal tape on that part killed the sound, not sure that's a permanent fix, but now I know what to the noise and racket was about, and its silent for now.

(I also tore out the entire center console and passenger seat, because I assumed at first it was coming from w/in the cabin.)

i got it figured out...lol they are replacing the long block...

Sponsored