Trying to get into a 2017 GT!!

[2015Etrac]

The 0% is nice, I bought my car while they were running the 0% for 60 months, of course 2 weeks later it went to 0% for 72 months. Try a few different dealers. I traded in an old 03' Jeep Grand Cherokee, the one dealer offered me $1,000, I went to a second dealer and he offered me $5,000.

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[obgod3]

Take it to carmax and see what they will pay you for it.

 

[ghig302]

Can you trade it in at the dealership that screwed it up in the first place?

 

[Macfarland]

I am working on a deal. Tomorrow I will know if I will become finally a S550 owner.

 

[Jdmuscle]

You can even have carfax fix this for you.. besides.. 9500 for your 2010 with 60+k seems like a fair trade in value. If you sold it privately you may get 13-14k but can't expect that from a dealer.

 

[scottmoyer]

Carfax is not the "holy grail" of information for a car. If there is work done and the shop doesn't have an agreement to notify Carfax, they won't know. Case in point, I bought a '16 GT three weeks ago, the car had a clean Carfax. This past week, while detailing the car, I noticed a sharp tape edge from repaint. As I started digging deeper, it turns out that both 1/4 panels and up over the doors to the A pillar were repainted. Upon further digging, I found a date stamped on the underside of the trunk that said 07022016. The problem with that is the car was built in September of 2015!

Needless to say, I took the car back to the selling dealer and replaced it with a new '17.

Also, the 0% is in lieu of $4k in rebates. You can get $1k and 0% or $4k. I ended up using the $4k deal because my interest rate only brought the interest to $2300 over 6 years. Please be sure to check which option is best for your situation and don't leave money on the table.

 

[1mic]

If 5.0 s197's are going for teens, your '10 sounds like a fair deal considering it's a trade in. The offer isn't even bad, try $15k earlier this year for a '13 5.0 with 25k miles.

 

[Red Turtle]

Carfax is not the "holy grail" of information for a car. If there is work done and the shop doesn't have an agreement to notify Carfax, they won't know. Case in point, I bought a '16 GT three weeks ago, the car had a clean Carfax. This past week, while detailing the car, I noticed a sharp tape edge from repaint. As I started digging deeper, it turns out that both 1/4 panels and up over the doors to the A pillar were repainted. Upon further digging, I found a date stamped on the underside of the trunk that said 07022016. The problem with that is the car was built in September of 2015!

Needless to say, I took the car back to the selling dealer and replaced it with a new '17.

Also, the 0% is in lieu of $4k in rebates. You can get $1k and 0% or $4k. I ended up using the $4k deal because my interest rate only brought the interest to $2300 over 6 years. Please be sure to check which option is best for your situation and don't leave money on the table.

Yep, if you have the credit, the $4000 rebate is the way to go. I have a $750 coupon to add to it, but can't find a car that I want locally.

 

[Macfarland]

Carfax is not the "holy grail" of information for a car. If there is work done and the shop doesn't have an agreement to notify Carfax, they won't know. Case in point, I bought a '16 GT three weeks ago, the car had a clean Carfax. This past week, while detailing the car, I noticed a sharp tape edge from repaint. As I started digging deeper, it turns out that both 1/4 panels and up over the doors to the A pillar were repainted. Upon further digging, I found a date stamped on the underside of the trunk that said 07022016. The problem with that is the car was built in September of 2015!

Needless to say, I took the car back to the selling dealer and replaced it with a new '17.

Also, the 0% is in lieu of $4k in rebates. You can get $1k and 0% or $4k. I ended up using the $4k deal because my interest rate only brought the interest to $2300 over 6 years. Please be sure to check which option is best for your situation and don't leave money on the table.

True about Carfax, my 2010 aside from the odo red-flag, had no reported accidents. When I took it to detail a couple of months later, the front bumper part close to the grill had some orange peel finish. It was nothing major thankfully. About my Carfax case, the dealer that messed-up told me they will take care of it on Tuesday. Can you believe they didn't even offered me a voucher for service for the inconvenience? A-holes!!

Regarding my deal, a dealer I'm working with offered me $12,900 for my trade-in plus Ford gives you $1000 for trading in a vehicle. I also have $750 in private cash. The better deal I think is to take the 1.9% APR for 72 and take all the rebates. I did the math and I save more going the rebate route. The problem is this dealership and 3 more close by only have black and white with the MSRP within my budget. My first choice is race red followed by lighting blue and magnetic. I don't like the black much less white enough to take the plunge on such expensive vehicle.

If I wait 6 more months, my budget for the Stang will be higher. I really like the 2018 in magnetic with the red interior or the lighting blue with blue stitching WOW!!
I'll probably wait for the 2018

 

[cyandhappiness]

Do you have a DD? Put it on ads and sell it yourself, don't trade it in because a 4.6 engine next to those 5.0 is a hard sell for dealership, and they will lowball the crap out of you for it.

 

[Kong76]

F carfax. Use Autocheck by Experian. There will be plenty of time for a deal on the 17s. 0% is not a reason to rush out and force something. Wait for the cash bonus offers to increase when they can't clear inventory. Look to sale your car private party. In the meantime look to get the 5k mile issue resolved.

 

[Macfarland]

F carfax. Use Autocheck by Experian. There will be plenty of time for a deal on the 17s. 0% is not a reason to rush out and force something. Wait for the cash bonus offers to increase when they can't clear inventory. Look to sale your car private party. In the meantime look to get the 5k mile issue resolved.

Thanks for the tip. I believe you have 30 days to shop for a car before your credit takes a hit again correct? Maybe at the end of September there will be more cash bonuses. I'll keep a close eye on leftover inventory.

 

[Kong76]

I use to be a car salesman and the best time to buy was usually around Sep, Oct, Nov last week of the months. That was when my managers and dealership owner started biting their nails needing to clear room for the next models. They discounted heavy. It was nice because it was easy for us to hit our sales goals those months and get an extra bonus. Keep an eye out on inventory and to ne honest, the cash bonus offers are a better deal if you already have great credit. With those though make sure you decide when it gets used not the dealer. They like to mark up the car $1k then throw the rebates in to make it look good. Have them pull out the rebates, strictly negotiate the price of the vehicle then when you are happy throw the rebates in.

Also negotiate your trade separately from everything else. Two transactions. Dealers are masters at manipulating numbers especially using a trade in.

 

[siggy]

I respectfully disagree with the approach most are taking with regards to a trade-in. As a buyer you care about the net. You need to focus on the big picture, which is the net cash out. You need to feel comfortable with X amount you're out of pocket and get to that number. If you try to negotiate the trade-in as one part of the transaction, and the price of the replacement vehicle as a separate component, the dealer has won. The dealer could give you $1 for trade-in, but discount the new vehicle $30k. If you focus on the trade-in, you've lost complete sight of your goal. Clearly that's an extreme example.

I've never had to negotiate a trade-in until recently since I now live in a state where you can only get a sales tax credit for a trade-in. I figure out the net number I want to write a check for, and walk in negotiating with that approach. Dealers often try to play the back and forth games on the trade-in, new car price, etc., and I just block it out. I don't care which bucket they have to flux, doesn't really matter. The end goal is I'm writing a check for X amount - everything else is just noise.

 

[Rdot9]

I would take a trip out to a Carmax if they have one in your area when you're seriously looking again. I had an 07 v6, 43k miles, busted rear end and they offered me 7.5k for it.

I was at a Ford dealer and they offered something like 3.2k for trade in. They used some excuse, "oh we're waiting on parts for an airbag recall so we won't be able to sell it till we get those parts, and it'll be sitting until then and we need to find a buyer."

I get what they are saying in not being able to sell the car until parts come in but almost a 4k difference?

Drove to Carmax, got my money and brought the check to the Ford dealer as my down payment.

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