frestylmotox01
Well-Known Member
Yea, that is the correct orientation.i read it supposed to face the passanger side. I believe it is per the instructions.
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Yea, that is the correct orientation.i read it supposed to face the passanger side. I believe it is per the instructions.
I really appreciate your help. I’m just bewildered because my Car was great on the NA tune I previously had with Lund Racing, no issues at all.Yea, that is the correct orientation.
I was thinking on the possibility that I got a bad injector, I thought it would be highly unlikely as they are brand new from Ford Performance. And I am sure they flow test prior to boxing.Happy to try, those symptoms def sound like a vacuum leak to me, but if all of the lines, connections, and couplers are good, it's hard to say unless you have a bad injector maybe? I see you have a catch can, is there a check valve in it that may have been installed backwards? was it there before the ESS kit?
A single bad injector wouldn't prevent it from starting, you would be getting a misfire and probably open circuit code for that cylinder but it would still run.I was thinking on the possibility that I got a bad injector, I thought it would be highly unlikely as they are brand new from Ford Performance. And I am sure they flow test prior to boxing.
Yes I have had this Catch Can before the Kit. And it’s a straight thru design and doesn’t let any metered air escape. The Vented Oil cap is new however. I will see it that’s the issue and put the oem one back on.
Updated: No change to idle. Still dies after a few seconds
car ran great with Lund tune on NA, then you changed...injectors, fuel pump voltage booster, intake system...lots of hoses, clamps, etc. I know you are checking your list off, but there must be something somewhere.I really appreciate your help. I’m just bewildered because my Car was great on the NA tune I previously had with Lund Racing, no issues at all.
thanks for your message. Fuel rail is getting fuel, just did what you suggested with the bucket. And that was with the oem wiring not with the BAP.When I did the install I left my old injectors in, was able to start my car on my N/A tune, to get it to the tuner where I switched out the injectors.
I would say, remove the fuel rail, disconnect the fuel hose, cycle the car and make sure there is fuel getting to the rail (use a bucket)
If theres fuel coming to the rail, put your old injectors in and try start it up. You should be able to start the car with a bad injector so I doubt it’s that.
BAP is disconnected. And I agree that it should be completely obvious for the vacuum leak, but I don’t see a leak anywhere. Bypass valve is good the o-ring is not pinched.A single bad injector wouldn't prevent it from starting, you would be getting a misfire and probably open circuit code for that cylinder but it would still run.
Like others mentioned, omit the BAP from the equation and plug in the connectors like OEM.
To have a vacuum leak that is large enough to prevent the engine from Idling, should be fairly obvious.
Any codes stored in the PCM?
Check and make sure that the blow off valve O-ring isn't pinched or damaged (and that it is installed) Hopefully you haven't put the bumper back on yet.
Will the engine run if you give it a little throttle?
I understand, and I appreciate everyone’s help on this. I am not giving up, I will find what’s wrong eventually.car ran great with Lund tune on NA, then you changed...injectors, fuel pump voltage booster, intake system...lots of hoses, clamps, etc. I know you are checking your list off, but there must be something somewhere.
Are you using the BOV that ESS provides with the kit? I added a note in my orginal response about people having issues with tightening the vacuum source fitting too much, and it preventing the valve from closing.thanks for your message. Fuel rail is getting fuel, just did what you suggested with the bucket. And that was with the oem wiring not with the BAP.
in reguards to the NA tune, the MAF housing I had on my NA setup (Steeda Closed Box) will be a bit different for the one on the kit. I can see if that’s a possibility, but i already payed Lund the 500 plus 150 for 6 month support. I’d want to work with them first before looking into another tuner.
BAP is disconnected. And I agree that it should be completely obvious for the vacuum leak, but I don’t see a leak anywhere. Bypass valve is good the o-ring is not pinched.
only codes I have are 420 and 430 for my Highflow Cats.
I understand, and I appreciate everyone’s help on this. I am not giving up, I will find what’s wrong eventually.
yea I have the standard 50mm (Summit). I will try to see if that’s the case but it is hand tightened and not over clocked/torqued. Thanks.Are you using the BOV that ESS provides with the kit? I added a note in my orginal response about people having issues with tightening the vacuum source fitting too much, and it preventing the valve from closing.
Also check both ends of the MAF extension harness. Make sure there are no pins pushed out or bent, on the MAF sensor as wellyea I have the standard 50mm (Summit). I will try to see if that’s the case but it is hand tightened and not over clocked/torqued. Thanks.
yes. It’s sputtering upon initial startup and before it dies there’s a lot of fuel vapor/unburned fuel from the exhaust flowing out and the exhaust tips have gas collected up to the point that it drips to the ground.100% you are getting raw fuel out of the exhaust and it's not just condensation?
are the plugs soaked in gas?
Put your OEM injectors back in and see if it runsyes. It’s sputtering upon initial startup and before it dies there’s a lot of fuel vapor/unburned fuel from the exhaust flowing out and the exhaust tips have gas collected up to the point that it drips to the ground.
All plugs were soaked in gas when I pulled them out to inspect. This is why I said that originally though it was a calibration issue with the base tune using incorrect Injector data. I’m not a tuner by any means but this is what I am thinking about