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Glad to hear that it resolved the issue. Sucks that you couldn't get the original tuner to work on fixing the issue with you without so much back and forth. But I've been tuned by Wengerd for two years now and haven't had any hiccups, he's a solid guy.

That's nice of Wengerd to give you that test tune, makes me glad that I went with him instead of some of the other options. Guy is always answering emails and questions for us.

I’d also like to add that I was tuned by wengerd and had an excellent experience, I know that doesn’t help you. But it seems like it could be related to the tune or the injectors.

Happy to try, those symptoms def sound like a vacuum leak to me, but if all of the lines, connections, and couplers are good, it's hard to say unless you have a bad injector maybe? I see you have a catch can, is there a check valve in it that may have been installed backwards? was it there...

Yea, that is the correct orientation.

I was able to accomplish this with a pancake compressor, a silicone couple, and some plumbing fittings to make a pressure tester, not sure if you have access to that, but it's always handy to have a leak tester. Mine is similar to this...

What about the BAP? Could you unplug that and try to start and idle without that in place? I don't have the BAP in mine, as I opted for a new DW415 setup, but if you see a bunch of extra fuel, I wonder about that. I would check with someone else on that, though; I'm not sure if that would cause...

Do any of the silicone couplers have holes or damage to them? They do need to get squeezed around some sharp sheet metal; one of them could be damaged, and that wouldn't be apparent. You could also try pressurizing the system to see if you can hear any leaks.

Is the MAF Sensor facing the correct direction?

I had those same symptoms when I blew a coupler off. I know you said you checked it all, but make sure that the silicon couplers are all fully attached and the band clamps are tight. Mine was on the intercooler to MAF pipe and it was hard to find it initially.

Should be a fun one then, I love 3rd gear pulls in mine. Feels like warp drive since it actually has traction at that point.

I got about 1500-2000 miles on my stock clutch with my ESS setup, it didn't explode or necessarily require a swap out, but the feeling of the pedal had started feeling off and it was definitely unhappy. It wasn't raced or abused (No donuts, launches, or hard driving) but did have a dyno run and...

@HKusp, does that apply to both Gen 2 and Gen 3 Motors?

I purchased my hood through Lethal and had a good buying experience using them, I def recommend them if you decide to get the Cervini hood.

Yea, the quotes I received were in a similar range, I wish I had put the money towards one of those options. The match was decent, but the quality was only okay, you def get what you pay for there. Also, they Cervini's louver does not come painted, or at least it didn't, so I paid a shop...

Here are two others I've read a bit about and the people who have purchased them seem to be happy with them. I can't comment to much on them as I've not seen them in person or used one. I've never used the drip tray for mine since it's a fair weather car. It's all fiberglass as far as I'm aware...

I've been running that hood for 3 years now without hood pins and no issues. It uses the factory connections without issue and I've never see any signs of wobbling or being unstable in my time with it. The hood is a bit heavier than the stock unit is. I'd also like to add that while I'm...

When I got my kit, I didn't see anything in the instructions about not using the crash bar, only that they suggested sandwiching the bracket which was ok. But I wound up going behind the thing entirely since it fit that way without issue.

Looks correct to me.

Yea, I'd be curious if it was the stock clutch, I never had a shudder with the stock unit, but with the McLeod RXT, I do notice it quite a bit.