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Transmission Leak

Wilson & Co

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If you're willing, I'll gladly pay the postage and a few bucks for the section you cut off. I'd like to see if the OEM tubing used can be flared to fit an appropriately sized AN fitting. Jeff's kit, while excellent, uses a compression fitting. I'd prefer to flare the line instead.
After calling a couple local dealers and getting long waits to get in i am going to try to make my own fix.

Im gonna tig a metal bar on an angle that connects to the bolt bracket and the tube. It will be welded so the tube is pushing barely past vertical.

I will get a pic when i get time
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93 347 Cobra

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I moved my 2021 GT500 the other night to wash it and noticed a nickel sized drop of fluid on the garage floor. It has 2300 miles on it. I put the car up on my quickjack's and confirmed it was coming from rear of transmission. I took it to the dealer on Friday and they determined it is the output shaft seal that is the issue. I am curious if anyone else has had this problem? Hopefully it was just a defective seal and there is not something else going on that caused the seal to fail. The part is 2 days out and will be installed this Thursday.
Just now noticed this thread. Same thing happened with my '14. I went on a long drive after having the car for 4 months. Had maybe 1200 miles on it. I pull in the garage and notice little red fluid dots look under car and it was on the clamps coming from tailshaft. They boogered up the rear seal at time of manufacturing and back then there was a nationwide shortage of those seals. Made me miss a weekend on Skyline drive in the Virginia Mountains, really pissed me off.
 

Wilson & Co

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After calling a couple local dealers and getting long waits to get in i am going to try to make my own fix.

Im gonna tig a metal bar on an angle that connects to the bolt bracket and the tube. It will be welded so the tube is pushing barely past vertical.

I will get a pic when i get time
Decided against welding on the tube, advised it could tear tubing since it sees so much vibration and movement.

I ordered the SPE unit since its a quick no-cut fix..
 

Epiphany

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I like to disassemble things.
Notice at the 11:00 mark that when he tightens the bolt down the flange cocks just like it was to begin with.



I'd rather see a stud used in the transmission case along with a nut for starters. Leave the factory seals alone but use a custom, hardened washer kind of in the shape of a "C" that would slip over the stud (with the tube already inserted) and push down on the factory flange plate at the vertical centerline of the tube.

The factory flanges needed to be thicker or have fasteners on either side of the tubes and not on just one side.
 

Strokerswild

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Simple, proven, work-for-decades inverted flare fittings would have been a good idea in this application...
 

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Wilson & Co

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Notice at the 11:00 mark that when he tightens the bolt down the flange cocks just like it was to begin with.



I'd rather see a stud used in the transmission case along with a nut for starters. Leave the factory seals alone but use a custom, hardened washer kind of in the shape of a "C" that would slip over the stud (with the tube already inserted) and push down on the factory flange plate at the vertical centerline of the tube.

The factory flanges needed to be thicker or have fasteners on either side of the tubes and not on just one side.
Yeah.. as long as it doesnt leak i guess.

Funny, i actually started to make that part by hand out of 1/8" steel. It leaked under pressure and I said screw it for 135 bucks let me try these.

I even bent the "forks" down a bit to get more pessure on opposite side.

Used longer bolt too..
EDIT: pic added




20220614_135159.jpg



 

Epiphany

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Well, we're on the same page anyway. Were you able to prevent the line from cocking when you tweaked the "C" plate/washer? I mentioned using a stud/nut as you'd be far less likely to damage the threads in the aluminum case while tensioning the plate you added. I'd also have used a large washer under the bolt (or better yet, nut) face to more evenly spread the load.

In addition, I noticed some raised "tits" on the factory flange. Those may have prevented tension at the far reaches...
 
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Tonymustang302

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Or they could just use a nut fitting like has been done forever
 

Tonymustang302

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Notice at the 11:00 mark that when he tightens the bolt down the flange cocks just like it was to begin with.



I'd rather see a stud used in the transmission case along with a nut for starters. Leave the factory seals alone but use a custom, hardened washer kind of in the shape of a "C" that would slip over the stud (with the tube already inserted) and push down on the factory flange plate at the vertical centerline of the tube.

The factory flanges needed to be thicker or have fasteners on either side of the tubes and not on just one side.
i would tap the opposite side of the screw with a dull screwdriver to seat it more, then tight a little, then tap, then tighten
 

Warpath

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Just had both my lines & cooler replaced under warranty. Because of a broken fitting.
 

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Wilson & Co

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Really hard to tell if its working correctly. Id have to take shield off or use dental mirror to watch as i draw the bolt tight. No lift here.

Yes i was concerned about threads too so i used the longer bolt for more engagement.
 

Epiphany

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If it matters, once you are beyond the typical "1.5x the fastener diameter" for minimum thread length, additional threads aren't doing any work and are only along for the ride.
 

Wilson & Co

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After some thought on this...
Dont waste your time with ANY available aftermarket "fixes" other than the LMT unless your positive its a seal. Once you have a leak its very likely the line cracked right around the crimped tab.

I think the reason (among many)these fail like this is the factory mounting tab design allows for vibration and over time stresses that pinch spot and the tubing cracks.

Maybe SPE fix would be a better proactive solution... just make sure you verify before you buy ;)
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