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Tracking the EcoBoost

TeeLew

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My EB was a 15 without a diff probe, diff issues were just becoming a thing for the platform.

Keep an eye on that and you’ll be ok
Did you ever get a temp number off the diff during a track day? Even a shot at the housing with an infrared gun would be worth something.

I have a hypothesis I've kicked around with another friend. The Torsen diff has enough bias ratio (locking ability) to take care of inside rear wheelspin, but I don't think it has enough to every fully lock in the way a ramp/plate style diff does. Because of this, it's *always* differentiating, even in places like fast corners or esses where wheelspin isn't an issue. This may very well contribute to the temp of the final drive.

Has anyone ran a different differential to compare temps or function?
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xXANCHORMONXx

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Did you ever get a temp number off the diff during a track day? Even a shot at the housing with an infrared gun would be worth something.

I have a hypothesis I've kicked around with another friend. The Torsen diff has enough bias ratio (locking ability) to take care of inside rear wheelspin, but I don't think it has enough to every fully lock in the way a ramp/plate style diff does. Because of this, it's *always* differentiating, even in places like fast corners or esses where wheelspin isn't an issue. This may very well contribute to the temp of the final drive.

Has anyone ran a different differential to compare temps or function?
Yes surface temp was around 450f on a 110 degree day.
 

TeeLew

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Yes surface temp was around 450f on a 110 degree day.
Holy Shit, was there anything salvagable out of it? Was that common or as a result of losing a bearing or R&P.

Does everyone run the Torsen? I can't see a stock Traction-Lok being better, but there are some aftermarket options which might be interesting.
 

xXANCHORMONXx

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Holy Shit, was there anything salvagable out of it? Was that common or as a result of losing a bearing or R&P.

Does everyone run the Torsen? I can't see a stock Traction-Lok being better, but there are some aftermarket options which might be interesting.
Not really, I traded it in lol
 

YoloBathsalts

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For example, could the handling in the EB be that much better that it would be worth downgrading from the V8?

Other plus: better tire and brake pad wear - easier chassis tuning, etc.

Probably be able to take 200-300 lbs off the car overall and putting more weight in the back (cage + moving battery etc.) would almost tip the scales towards the rear end.
I used to track my 16 Ecoboost. You NEED to upgrade the intercooler, brake fluid, have an extra set of pads, and good tires. It handles very well and is no slouch. My GT is ultimately faster but the weight distribution on the Eco is better. Bc its an inline 4 the weight is very centralized, but the non-PP brakes are garbage. Mine were on fire at one point when i pulled off track. I highly recommend the FP tune its night and day. I woudl go as far as saying its required. My cylinder temps sent the car into limp mode once or twice on Road America so be careful with that. I never did figure out a fix for that problem, but by the time the car went into limp mode the brakes were already getting soggy so it was time to pull off anyway.

Brake fluid: Motul RBF 660.
Also a mini fire extinguisher is a good idea. If your brakes catch fire you dont wanta hit them with water as they will warp (Rotors). Also it works if you are on fire.
 

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SVO MkII

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I used to track my 16 Ecoboost. You NEED to upgrade the intercooler, brake fluid, have an extra set of pads, and good tires. It handles very well and is no slouch. My GT is ultimately faster but the weight distribution on the Eco is better. Bc its an inline 4 the weight is very centralized, but the non-PP brakes are garbage. Mine were on fire at one point when i pulled off track. I highly recommend the FP tune its night and day. I woudl go as far as saying its required. My cylinder temps sent the car into limp mode once or twice on Road America so be careful with that. I never did figure out a fix for that problem, but by the time the car went into limp mode the brakes were already getting soggy so it was time to pull off anyway.

Brake fluid: Motul RBF 660.
Also a mini fire extinguisher is a good idea. If your brakes catch fire you dont wanta hit them with water as they will warp (Rotors). Also it works if you are on fire.
When I first bought my 2018 EB PP, I took it Road America, all bone stock, just for a reference. I made it 5 laps on the stock PP 4 piston brakes and stock fluid. Pedal touched bottom braking in to turn 1. The ultimate solution is the GT PP 6 piston Brembos AND the Motul 660 (and track pads). No more braking concerns!
 

YoloBathsalts

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When I first bought my 2018 EB PP, I took it Road America, all bone stock, just for a reference. I made it 5 laps on the stock PP 4 piston brakes and stock fluid. Pedal touched bottom braking in to turn 1. The ultimate solution is the GT PP 6 piston Brembos AND the Motul 660 (and track pads). No more braking concerns!
Damn that's scary. At least turn one has a decent run off. It's crazy that the stock fluid only lasted 5 laps. That track eats through pads
 

SVO MkII

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Damn that's scary. At least turn one has a decent run off. It's crazy that the stock fluid only lasted 5 laps. That track eats through pads
I knew better, but it was a crazy whether weekend in early May, rain, snow, etc. I had track pads and Motul 660, but didn't bother to put it all in, assuming I wasn't going to be able to push it. But of course, the sun came out the second day, track dried out, and I pushed it...for 5 laps!
 

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Yes surface temp was around 450f on a 110 degree day.
I've tortured a few cars at Thunderhill, and can remember losing a "few" pounds in a session. Never had anything break that was oil related. I've run Redline in everything. This is my first car with a Torsen, though, and I always assumed I could run Redline and forget about the temperatures. At 450 degrees, I suspect nothing but a cooler will help.
I've been thinking about going to the aluminum diff with traction-loc.
Damn that's scary. At least turn one has a decent run off. It's crazy that the stock fluid only lasted 5 laps. That track eats through pads
It's not the fluid. It that the fluid hadn't been changed recently. Stock Ford brake fluid in new condition will not boil unless you are melting piston seals.
I took an Audi RS/6 out at Brainerd one weekend without the common sense to bleed the system prior. Fluid boiled after about 3 laps. The car was evil handling to begin with so I just made it a point to brake early and pump like crazy. All wheel drive and 500 HP makes for lurid 4 wheel drifts exiting turn 3.
 

SVO MkII

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I've tortured a few cars at Thunderhill, and can remember losing a "few" pounds in a session. Never had anything break that was oil related. I've run Redline in everything. This is my first car with a Torsen, though, and I always assumed I could run Redline and forget about the temperatures. At 450 degrees, I suspect nothing but a cooler will help.
I've been thinking about going to the aluminum diff with traction-loc.

It's not the fluid. It that the fluid hadn't been changed recently. Stock Ford brake fluid in new condition will not boil unless you are melting piston seals.
I took an Audi RS/6 out at Brainerd one weekend without the common sense to bleed the system prior. Fluid boiled after about 3 laps. The car was evil handling to begin with so I just made it a point to brake early and pump like crazy. All wheel drive and 500 HP makes for lurid 4 wheel drifts exiting turn 3.
Yes, it was the fluid that boiled as well. The car was less that three months old at the time, i.e., very fresh stock Ford fluid. I bled the brakes afterwards and saw bubbles, etc. For those who are serious about tracking your car, you need to use something designed for this purpose, e.g., Motul 660. Over the last 20+ years of HPDE, I have learned the hard way that skimping on pads and fluid makes for a less enjoyable weekend (and in this instance I rolled the dice and lost again!).
 

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Radiation Joe

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Yes, it was the fluid that boiled as well. The car was less that three months old at the time, i.e., very fresh stock Ford fluid. I bled the brakes afterwards and saw bubbles, etc. For those who are serious about tracking your car, you need to use something designed for this purpose, e.g., Motul 660. Over the last 20+ years of HPDE, I have learned the hard way that skimping on pads and fluid makes for a less enjoyable weekend (and in this instance I rolled the dice and lost again!).
I feel your pain. I had a set of Hawk Blues crumble going into 10 at TH. Never been to a track since without inspecting pads beforehand.
 

SVO MkII

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I feel your pain. I had a set of Hawk Blues crumble going into 10 at TH. Never been to a track since without inspecting pads beforehand.
Yes, Hawk Blues have tremendous bite. I just did a Road America event with a fresh set of Hawk Blues (first time I used these on the S550). I felt like I was barely touching the brakes and the ABS would kick in. After 2.5 hrs of track time, still over 75% left. Definitely a "serious pad".
 

TeeLew

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Has anyone ran Pagid brake?
 

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After 2.5 hrs of track time, still over 75% left. Definitely a "serious pad".
where space permits (and not racing) why not just brake earlier for longer? As long as your entry speed is the same for the corner you're not injecting near the same BTU/sec into the pads nor likely seeing the same peak temps.
 

SVO MkII

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where space permits (and not racing) why not just brake earlier for longer? As long as your entry speed is the same for the corner you're not injecting near the same BTU/sec into the pads nor likely seeing the same peak temps.
That's not how to get around a track quickly. I'e., you want to be at full throttle as much as possible, and on the brakes as little as possible. You want to be as hard on the brakes as possible for a short amount of time as possible.
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