Track Time Limited due to High CHT

[tosha]

I'm pretty sure my color is the first or second most rare lol. Unless the hood in your pic is carbon fiber, something tells me you can relate.

I got a random color and wrapped it. You can get a sheet of wrap from amazon in any color and pattern these days))) and my stock hood can be put back on anytime.

Just to give an idea:

Sponsored

 

[MrMike]

I got a random color and wrapped it. You can get a sheet of wrap from amazon in any color and pattern these days))) and my stock hood can be put back on anytime.

Just to give an idea:

Definitely a cheaper option than a GT500 hood, whether that be Cervini's or one of the aluminum ones plus the necessary body shop work. I'm not moving on this until next year so we'll see how I feel over the winter. I'd have to find somewhere to store a hood, maybe mount it on my garage wall.

 

[GTP]

I got a random color and wrapped it. You can get a sheet of wrap from amazon in any color and pattern these days))) and my stock hood can be put back on anytime.

Yeah, I anguished about this for at least a year. I don't have the space to store a hood and there is some risk when putting it on/off.

Ultimately I stopped procrastinating and designed my own vents to replace the OEM vents as well as keep my hood stripes intact. Except for the top mount and fasteners, they look almost factory.

 

[s197oldtimer]

The cooler end will be determined by your own setup but I used the following at the sandwich plate:

Remove stock sandwich plate and oil cooler
Setrab 180* Susa sandwich plate.
2x m22 to -12an straight fittings
1 x 12an double swivel 45*
1 x 12an double swivel 60*

I used these to route my lines between the top of the subframe and under the sway bar, pointed outboard to route the lines around the drivers side of the radiator. If your lines are resting on the subframe, the sway bar even at full compression is an inch away from -12 lines with fire sleeve on them.

Added benefit of removing the stock oil cooler is it leaves plenty of room for the ford performance fl280 filter on the Susa sandwich plate.

Is that blue center threaded bolt the stock one that comes with the Setrab 180* Susa sandwich plate?

 

[TonyT930]

Anyone try Redline Waterwetter? Pros/cons etc...

 

[Paul McWhiskey]

Anyone try Redline Waterwetter? Pros/cons etc...

I put it in. At the same time that I changed coolant. Have noticed no difference.

 

[GTP]

I put it in. At the same time that I changed coolant. Have noticed no difference.

I think the idea for WW is to run straight water plus two 12oz bottles of WW (for pump lubrication and protection).

I drained 1 gal of OEM coolant and then put in 1 gal distilled. Calculates to be ~63% water. Will try at NCM later this month.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

Anyone try Redline Waterwetter? Pros/cons etc...

Yes took everything I could throw at it to keep mine cool. I ran water / water wetter with a splash of antifreeze in a Mishi radiator. Switch to back to antifreeze during winter.

 

[GTP]

Yes took everything I could throw at it to keep mine cool. I ran water / water wetter with a splash of antifreeze in a Mishi radiator. Switch to back to antifreeze during winter.

Where do you store your car?

 

[NeverSatisfied]

Where do you store your car?

I kept it in my garage but my track day GT has moved on to a new owner. Just have a stock Mach1 now. Track time is now K24 powered Miata time.

 

[TonyT930]

I know these engines run hot, but here are my thoughts. Just some basic stuff. If my car was overheating, the first three things I would check are the coolant level, oil level, and the radiator cap. As far as the coolant level, I would wait until the engine is cool and pull the radiator cap. Make sure that the level is all the way up in the radiator itself. Then check the egas container to make sure it's to at least the minimum line. Also, that verifies that the egas hose isnt clogged. Now, as far as the radiator cap. Using water for argument sakes, water at ambient pressure boils at 212 F at sea level. Now, water in your radiator under 15 psi of pressure boils at about 250F. Your radiator cap must hold the correct pressure!! Maybe, the spring in the radiator cap is weak and not holding the pressure it should resulting in overheating. Maybe there is crude build up on the radiator cap spring causing it to not hold the correct pressure. Maybe its stuck open!! The older Ford turbo diesels used to have a radiator cap issue resulting in a ton of overheated and blown diesels.

A higher elevation will also cause water to boil at a lower temp, pressured or not

Also, make sure you lower radiator hose isnt collapsing or partially collapsing when cooling off.

Sponsored