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Track pack finally installed

Doug T

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Finished up yesterday got it aligned today. -1.8 front. -1.7 rear. Toe is spot on. Not ideal but that's how it played out for now. I might mod the camber up front later. I was able to drive around a bit with the stock sways for a while (PP1) and liked the ride comfort wise, but the rear was lacking just a little handling wise. However, with the track pack sways I can tell you first hand it definitely firmed up all around. I used to believe bigger sways would only firm up the corners but that is not true. Now it is "borderline" too firm for a street car on bumpy roads. On decent (Not perfect) roads I feel it's spot on for the street. Any stiffer than this would be annoying to me on the street. I also have both bars set on the softest setting. As far as install goes a good selection of tools is a must. One area of concern was the toe link bushings. You'd better have the exact size puller and press plate or you will wish you were never born. And for me, forget the loctite. I needed never seize and a quick run through with a 2" flex ball hone. The bore was actually .010" smaller than the O.D. of the bearing. I ended up putting the bearings in the freezer over night which helped a lot. So all in all I am satisfied with the Ford track pack. Still not crazy about the angle of the sway bar ears but "they" say it's okay. Funny thing, when I measured the stock toe link bushings to see what was going on they were .030" oblong! C'mon Ford! On a side note the car's stance is sweet. Not too much not too little. Hope this helps somebody in their decision making process.
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larr12

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Pics or didnt happen! lol

Congrats Doug!!
 
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Doug T

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I'll be putting the stock PP1 sway back in the rear. Too stiff. Rear still dances around too much for my liking. Looking into options.
 

bankyf

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Finished up yesterday got it aligned today. -1.8 front. -1.7 rear. Toe is spot on. Not ideal but that's how it played out for now. I might mod the camber up front later. I was able to drive around a bit with the stock sways for a while (PP1) and liked the ride comfort wise, but the rear was lacking just a little handling wise. However, with the track pack sways I can tell you first hand it definitely firmed up all around. I used to believe bigger sways would only firm up the corners but that is not true. Now it is "borderline" too firm for a street car on bumpy roads. On decent (Not perfect) roads I feel it's spot on for the street. Any stiffer than this would be annoying to me on the street. I also have both bars set on the softest setting. As far as install goes a good selection of tools is a must. One area of concern was the toe link bushings. You'd better have the exact size puller and press plate or you will wish you were never born. And for me, forget the loctite. I needed never seize and a quick run through with a 2" flex ball hone. The bore was actually .010" smaller than the O.D. of the bearing. I ended up putting the bearings in the freezer over night which helped a lot. So all in all I am satisfied with the Ford track pack. Still not crazy about the angle of the sway bar ears but "they" say it's okay. Funny thing, when I measured the stock toe link bushings to see what was going on they were .030" oblong! C'mon Ford! On a side note the car's stance is sweet. Not too much not too little. Hope this helps somebody in their decision making process.
I'm with you on the toe link bushings. They make it sound so easy. I did one with the control arm out of the car (it was already out) and it didn't go too bad. The other I did with the control arm in the car. I'm fairly certain I started it and pressed it back out at least a dozen times because it didn't look straight. I wasted hours on that stupid bushing. I can't believe I didn't think about the freezer.

That's interesting about the sway bars. My magneride track pack is just a bit too firm for my taste. Maybe I will try it with the stock sways.
 

Roadway 5.0

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I'll be putting the stock PP1 sway back in the rear. Too stiff. Rear still dances around too much for my liking. Looking into options.
Go up a hole for stiffness on the front and keep rear full soft.

I have Steeda bars with more adjustability, but same concept. 3/4s stiff in the front keeps the balance safe, 2/4s stiff in the front and the rear will go out fairly easy on throttle (yet controllable and predictable). I go between these two settings on the front depending on what I’m looking for that week, tires (winter vs 295 summers), and weather.

If shifting front bar stiffness doesn’t float your boat, the PP rear bar is a good fallback.
 

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Doug T

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Just put the PP1 rear sway back in. So much better. You can actually feel the I.R.S. working now. Plus my neck isn't jarring. More tweaks to come. Thanks all.
 

rhexis

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this is good info thanks. I'm about to pull the bang switch on either the track pack or this. right now its out of stock so I thought id just do pieces of it at a time. I've got a pp1 so I think the sway in the rear is decent but I want to drop it a bit and get better shocks and struts. do you think I would get 80% of the track pack with this?

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Doug T

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IMO. If I had to do it all over again, that is the route I would take. I don't know if they sell the kit with the springs installed minus the sways and toe link. If they do. that would be the ticket. Now if you're trying to build a cone crushing HDPE autocross monster maybe not. But for the street it's really good. The BMR cradle stuff is a nice extra but since I did it all at once I can't say how much that helped. However common sense of how it works by locking things together is almost a no brainer. One reason I chose to do it all at once was because you have to drop the cradle to do the springs anyway so why not. Believe me once you start tearing into this job you're not going to want to go back in and basically have to do it again. Also might want to do the free front sway mod by drilling a second hole. Can't hurt and then you have some adjustability. Plus it's free. And as others have said make sure to have good drill bits. Hope this helps.
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