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Toyo R888 or R888R ??

Tomster

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Working on my track budget for next year thanks.
My cost for Daytona was:

$1700 for R spec wheels
$800 set of R comp tires
$1200 for 3 days of track
$400 for jack rails and camber plates
$200 front brake pads (shot after 3 days)
$320 for track insurance (3 days)
$70 for Castrol SRF brake fluid
$250 for fuel for 3 days
about another $250 for oil, trans, axle fluid changes (after the fact --and another $100 for fresh oil before the fact if not recent)


So over $5,000 to get started for a similar event.

Add another $1000 If you have to have cup2's.

You could get away without the camber plates, wheels, jack rails (subtract as needed). And of course, YMMV (what's the point in comp tires if you are not going to adjust the camber).

Helmet/car wrap/alignment/misc items are all extra.

Not a poor mans sport. :D
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Tomster

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It's very dependent on your driving style, the track you drive and its surface, tire pressure, and your alignment specs. If your alignment and pressures are right on a track with a good surface, I would expect about 6 days for the average driver.
That is what I am seeing from my set as well. 3 days down and half gone. Expect 6 days doing all that was mentioned.
 

firestarter2

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Ok I worked out 5600 for 3 2 day events assuming i use stock wheels. Pricey
 

Tomster

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Ok I worked out 5600 for 3 2 day events assuming i use stock wheels. Pricey
Indeed. The conti's make it a bit more affordable and are very close to the cup 2's. Don't get me wrong, cup 2's are great, but why throw your money away on a consumable for a non competitive event. 99% of the difference is in the driver.

Chances are when you are dealing with the penalty of a concrete wall or other barrier, you probably aren't going to push them that hard anyway.

At the HPDE this last weekend, I only once got loose in an oversteer at turn 3. It was quickly saved, but that was about as hard as I cared to push it anyway. It probably came loose because the track caused an anomaly in the track mode to cause it to fail and leave all of us 350's with no stability augmentation or traction control....

Anyway my point is that if you have the money to burn, get the cup 2's. If not, you can find some tire that performs close.

picture.webp
 
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Where did you get 3 day track insurance for 320? That's an excellent rate...
 

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Tomster

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Where did you get 3 day track insurance for 320? That's an excellent rate...
It was Lockton Motorsports. I booked it in conjunction with the event. There was a club discount. I had a 10% deductible insured to 50K.

I thought it was quite reasonable as well considering I saw 3 big wrecks that weekend.

First was a new Mercedes that blew a tire and hit the wall.

Second was a race prepped GT3 that got rear ended

Third was a new Camaro with the whole front end bashed in.

I thought it would be poor etiquette to take photos of others misfortune.
 

firestarter2

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It was Lockton Motorsports. I booked it in conjunction with the event. There was a club discount. I had a 10% deductible insured to 50K.

I thought it was quite reasonable as well considering I saw 3 big wrecks that weekend.

First was a new Mercedes that blew a tire and hit the wall.

Second was a race prepped GT3 that got rear ended

Third was a new Camaro with the whole front end bashed in.

I thought it would be poor etiquette to take photos of others misfortune.
Funny I got insurance my last track day. They told me when i got there they rarely have Car to Car contact. That day 2 porches and a Ferrari went off together. I think there were like 2 other wrecks
 

Tomster

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Which brand / version of wheels did you pick up, if you don't mind my asking?

And, yes, taking pics of wrecks is strongly "discouraged."
They were the project 6gr wheels in R spec
 

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I use the R888 on my 350Z because it is well priced and widely available in the size I wanted. (245/40/18).

I would rate them as a "mild" R-comp tire. They are relatively long lasting, but not extremely sticky IMO. In the size I was using, they have a loud hum on the highway and on the track, sounding similar to a straight cut gear. Not too bad for going to the track and back, but not something I would want to leave on the car for DD.

I would typically get maybe 8 events or more on the R888, which would be a couple years of use.

I think the PSS are probably not much worse than the R888, unless you get them overheated in which case the R888's probably hold their performance better at high temps.

If you are looking for unltimate grip, I don't think the R888 is going to be the tire of choice. I think it would be better for those looking for decent grip and road feel (due to large tread blocks and very little tread depth), as well as long life.

-T
 

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xXANCHORMONXx

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How does the RE71R compare on the track to R compounds?
More audible than the r compounds I've used and lasts longer.

The sidewall is very stiff and inspires confidence.

It was between these and the NT01, from what I've seen these are faster
 
 








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