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Totaled or no?

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djlux28836

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This has all the feels of "i wrecked my car but want to blame someone else and hopefully insurance sees this thread" lol
Omg !!! You got me ! I’m totally blaming someone else!
I was literally asleep when they hit my car but whatever your think :)
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Omg !!! You got me ! I’m totally blaming someone else!
I was literally asleep when they hit my car but whatever your think :)
Exactly what you should say - just in case. :wink:
 

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Doesn’t look like a very severe impact - and from just a visual perspective of the photo, no it’s not a total - but probably at least a $10k repair bill.

HOWEVER, if the rear subframe shifted so much that it tore anything from the unibody, OR once it’s on a frame rack and they see that there is a major difference in the Ford acceptable specs vs. the damage and what would have to be done to bring it back within spec - then yes it *could be* be totaled.

As was mentioned, to total out a vehicle the damages have to be within 72%-75% of actual cash value. If the damage to repair exceeds that threshold, the car is a total loss. Keep in mind that the % to total varies by State, it’s not an industry wide set value.

It’s very hard to say if that would be totaled from the pic, but my guess is there’s probably plenty of undercarriage damages we’re not seeing and we can’t speculate on any body panel or frame to body gaps that have now been jarred beyond spec. It might come close, but see what your adjuster says about it.

Also in most states, leaving the scene of an accident carries additional charges, does that apply in your State?

If the vehicle is totaled out, do NOT accept the 1st, 2nd or 3rd payout offer UNTIL you are satisfied you’re getting fair market value for the loss (and what it would cost to replace that exact car with those exact options OR a comparable car).

Go here and plug your VIN; the black book is what the Financial, Dealer, Salvage, and Insurance sectors use as the standard to determine ACV… do NOT take anyone’s “blue book” offers. plug your VIN, then add any options the vehicle has on it from the factory:
http://www.blackbookportals.com/bb/products/usedcarhtmlportal.asp?color=o&companyid=thinkbank.com

That will give you THE most accurate value of what the car is worth TODAY.
 

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djlux28836

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Doesn’t look like a very severe impact - and from just a visual perspective of the photo, no it’s not a total - but probably at least a $10k repair bill.

HOWEVER, if the rear subframe shifted so much that it tore anything from the unibody, OR once it’s on a frame rack and they see that there is a major difference in the Ford acceptable specs vs. the damage and what would have to be done to bring it back within spec - then yes it *could be* be totaled.

As was mentioned, to total out a vehicle the damages have to be within 72%-75% of actual cash value. If the damage to repair exceeds that threshold, the car is a total loss. Keep in mind that the % to total varies by State, it’s not an industry wide set value.

It’s very hard to say if that would be totaled from the pic, but my guess is there’s probably plenty of undercarriage damages we’re not seeing and we can’t speculate on any body panel or frame to body gaps that have now been jarred beyond spec. It might come close, but see what your adjuster says about it.

Also in most states, leaving the scene of an accident carries additional charges, does that apply in your State?

If the vehicle is totaled out, do NOT accept the 1st, 2nd or 3rd payout offer UNTIL you are satisfied you’re getting fair market value for the loss (and what it would cost to replace that exact car with those exact options OR a comparable car).

Go here and plug your VIN; the black book is what the Financial, Dealer, Salvage, and Insurance sectors use as the standard to determine ACV… do NOT take anyone’s “blue book” offers. plug your VIN, then add any options the vehicle has on it from the factory:
http://www.blackbookportals.com/bb/products/usedcarhtmlportal.asp?color=o&companyid=thinkbank.com

That will give you THE most accurate value of what the car is worth TODAY.
The reason they cannot charge the driver is because they don’t know who the driver was. None of my neighbors seen or cameras seen who got out of the car. The owner of the vehicle lives on the block over from me so it’s an easy walk to there house without nobody knowing. I’ve talked to the police sergeant and he said his hands are tied bc they don’t know who the driver was. They haven’t picked up there car from the police department and now the tow yard owns the car so they clear didn’t care about losing a car to save their ass.
thank you for the input , I will give that search a try
 

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Did the Police Sargeant bother to check if there were shoe prints in the snow - and IF so, take a photo of the print and try to match it to shoes at that household? LOL…. Sounds dumb, too simplistic, but I mean, it looks like there is snow on the ground and maybe the driver didn’t think before they ran back home and cut through yards… leaving prints.
 

cerbomark

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Did the Police Sargeant bother to check if there were shoe prints in the snow - and IF so, take a photo of the print and try to match it to shoes at that household? LOL…. Sounds dumb, too simplistic, but I mean, it looks like there is snow on the ground and maybe the driver didn’t think before they ran back home and cut through yards… leaving prints.
they don't do that for a relative minor accident, maybe if it was a fatality, at least not where I ve come from. they do a hit and run report and let the insurance fight over it. Is the car that hit you insured?
 

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they should also have gotten a sworn statement from the owner, that binds him into filing a false report if information is found out, like a witness lets say... then they really hammer the DB.
That can pressure someone to confess, LOL.
Were the keys in the car?
 

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Hit on the rocker, wheel and quarter. Now you have funky hood gaps? Something is bent. Doesn't take much. Sounds like it could be totaled. It's close.
 

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djlux28836

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they don't do that for a relative minor accident, maybe if it was a fatality, at least not where I ve come from. they do a hit and run report and let the insurance fight over it. Is the car that hit you insured?
At this point I’m not sure, when my insurance calls me I’ll ask them if they found the other parties insurance
 
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djlux28836

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Hit on the rocker, wheel and quarter. Now you have funky hood gaps? Something is bent. Doesn't take much. Sounds like it could be totaled. It's close.
There was definitely a tighter gap on the hood on the drive side where the impact was. Now maybe that gap was always and I just notice it but I don’t think that’s the case. They are gonna give me the quote tomorrow when they take panels off and go over the damage
 

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At this point I’m not sure, when my insurance calls me I’ll ask them if they found the other parties insurance
you have to get the incident(accident ) reports and it will be on there what the investigation documented. When they spoke to the owner no matter if he says he was driving or not they would get his insurance information for the vehicle. Your insurance company is not going to investigate anything.
 
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djlux28836

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Car was parked and some one hit and ran, fortunately they ditched the car. They’re hiding in their house so I can’t get there insurance yet. However, I want to get your guys opinion on if it could be totaled.

No airbags went off, wheel is definitely not pointing straight. Chunk of wheel missing. Trunk is hard to close and open. I notice the hood gap is tight on the side the accident was and not the same as the other side. The rocker panel looks to be done. I was able to drive it to my driveway(500 ft) but definitely noticeable rubbing, clanking and other noises. Exhaust got moved quite a bit too

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Update: it was not totaled. Cost came out to $11,500
 

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