To performance pack or not....that is the question

[2015Etrac]

I most likely would have gotten it if they offered it with the auto in 2016. That being said, I probably would have changed out most of the suspension parts and the wheels anyway. I mainly wanted it for the brakes. Your best bet is to check the PP package option list on Ford's website and check off what you would keep and what you would upgrade anyway, and see if it's still worth it. For example, $4k bought me GT350R springs, sway bars, strut tower brace, Koni adjustables, aftermarket wheels/tires, and should cover my Brembo brake upgrade. On the other hand if you want a good performing car right from the factory and don't feel like upgrading parts then the PP is worth it, and you get the Torsen rear.

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[JohnD]

If you're going to DD and drag race it you don't need the PP. Save yourself several thousand and use it to buy mods more focused to the quarter mile. Seriously, most of the PP stuff is road course oriented.

 

[GoFas7]

Over the Memorial Weekend with dealer rebates and ford rebates the difference between a GT and GT PP1 was only ~$3k in Houston.

Personally, I would have upgraded the base Pirelli's to Michelins quickly for ~$1k, so it was easy for me to justify an additional $2k for larger radiator, 3.73 gears (fine/fun for daily), 19"s, all the braces, Brembos, gauges, etc.

Chances are I would have regretted not getting it. I am in the camp of wanting it close to perfect from factory rather than modifying later.

 

[Bald Menace]

Then PP A10 also comes with the cast iron rear differential which is a huge plus.

 

[TomcatDriver]

Was there a particular reason Ford had to increase the cost of the performance package? ..did something change vs the '15-'17 model? ..like the cost of tires..pirelli vs Michelin.

No, not really. There is very little difference between 17-18 PP that would really justify the $1000 price jump. At $3000 it was really a no-brainer. At $4000 it's still probably worth it, but it takes a little more thinking. I would say that if you are a modder and plan on changing a bunch of stuff as soon as you put it in the garage anyway, then it's probably not worth it. If you want to drive the car as-is then it's worth it.

 

[boxstang40]

No, not really. There is very little difference between 17-18 PP that would really justify the $1000 price jump. At $3000 it was really a no-brainer. At $4000 it's still probably worth it, but it takes a little more thinking. I would say that if you are a modder and plan on changing a bunch of stuff as soon as you put it in the garage anyway, then it's probably not worth it. If you want to drive the car as-is then it's worth it.

^this is well said

 

[Kansas GT]

I purchased mine with the PP1 since I wasn't really interested in modding this car, and it provided a nice balance of factory modifications for the price.

I did take the PP1 wheels and 4S tires off almost immediately and sold them though. I wasn't a fan of the staggered setup and am much more pleased with my square setup and A/S 3+ rubber that I can rotate and run all four seasons. I don't track my car and didn't need the stickier summer tires with my driving habits.

 

[Kevin08]

This was something I weighed for a while, after 3 months of owning my car I do not regret not going with PP. I'm replacing the wheels, shocks/struts and springs with better than OE PP equipment anyways, already added the PP bracing for cheap, the 3.55 gears on the 6MT are great for DDing with the new MT82 gearing, I have not once used the 14" GT brakes to their full potential, and IMO, the non-pp front splitter looks better on the 18+. The PP splitter just seems to stick out so much now compared to the 15-17s. I also love the finish on the 401A dash, makes it look a bit more upscale on the interior.

TLDR; No ragrets, makes me feel better about not having to swap out parts that I'd have to finance until the car's paid off, aftermarket stuff is better, the 'extras' in the PP aren't needed/used by me on a daily basis. In the end, no one really cares but you.

 

[Nomadic]

The PP rocks. I test drove non PPs before PP and PP felt much tighter. Plus, the 3.73s totally rock. It was the only configuration that made the GT feel really fun and fast IMO. Only thing I didn't like about the PP were the wheels as they're hard as hell to clean and there's no offset. They're totally flat. But I already sold them, so that's fixed.

 

[Zelek]

The PP shocks go well with many of the spring options out there. I liked how the PP felt versus the floaty feeling of the non PP.

 

[Mooch]

So I ordered my ‘19 a few weeks back and I opted out of the PP. It was a tough one because I really do like the PP wheels and the rear wing, but I just can’t quite justify the $3,900. Also living in New England I really need all season tires. I decided I can deal with the black accent wheels instead, and they are at least easier to keep clean. I also chose the 3.55 gearing with the A10. After going Premium, and adding the B&O audio and active exhaust and 401a I just really had to reel in my price budget a bit.

Question: will my 3.55 rear end behave the same as the Torsen rear end on the PP? I plan on keeping it mostly stock, but was just wondering if it could still hold ups to some fun on the strip a few times a year.

 

[DickR]

Speaking from experience with 8K miles and half a dozen SCCA Tours/Pro Solos this year on our A10 GTPP with MagneRide get MagneRide if you want a good street, highway, and street class autocross car in stock trim (i.e. no modifications). Normal mode is very comfortable AND controlled on rough roads and Track mode is very good for autocross.

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