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Tips on Changing Brake Pads

bobmclean

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Do you have any tips on changing out the brake pads? I have not done it on the GT 350....
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nastang87xx

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Someone made some big gas bolts that allow you to slide the caliper out and not have to hang the calipers. You basically unbolt one, install the long stud, unbolt the other, install the other long stud, and then slide the guy out so you can get to them.

Links, anyone?
 

Tank

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Someone made some big ass bolts that allow you to slide the caliper out and not have to hang the calipers. You basically unbolt one, install the long stud, unbolt the other, install the other long stud, and then slide the guy out so you can get to them.

Links, anyone?
http://caliperfexion.com :cheers:
 

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crazymayhem

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Ive been eyeing those as well. Any reason why one would choose one over the other (Stainless vs. Manganese Phosphate)?
 

nastang87xx

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Ive been eyeing those as well. Any reason why one would choose one over the other (Stainless vs. Manganese Phosphate)?
First thing that sticks out in my mind is anti seizing properties. Stainless can gall to aluminum pretty easily. Zinc and manganese phosphate reduces that risk. That's why a lot of bolts are zinc coated these days. Like with header bolts, do NOT skip anti seize lubrication when reinstalling your caliper bolts.
 

GT_Dave

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Ive been eyeing those as well. Any reason why one would choose one over the other (Stainless vs. Manganese Phosphate)?
The Manganese Phosphate version 4340 material is about 20% stronger than the stainless steel. Either choice will work well, if you track your car and have to service the calipers often, then the Manganese Phosphate would be a better choice.
For primarily street use with exposure to moisture regularly, the stainless steel parts won't corrode as easily. Stainless steel galling with aluminum really isn't an issue as you would install these once and they should be good for the life of the car if serviced properly.
 
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Trackaholic

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17-4 is an excellent stainless, but the properties listed on the website imply that these parts are furnished in the annealed condition rather than a heat treated condition. The annealed condition is more brittle and less resistant to other forms of failure (that probably don't apply in this application, like hydrogen embrittlement or stress corrosion cracking) than the heat treated condition. It looks beautiful, but I'd probably go for the 4340 version.

If the 17-4 is H900, then it would be a tougher choice.

The part does look very nice, and it seems like a good upgrade when it's time for that first pad change.

-T
 

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Tomster

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I ordered and installed the 4340 mag phos caliper studs before my last track event. It made my brake pad change out very simple.

I recommend.
 

RoadRacer

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^^^ I second that the 4340 studs work great and make the front brake maintenance a breeze! Thanks Epiphany!
Now if someone will just tell me how to deal with that parking brake cable attachment on the rears I won't waste all that time and garage profanity putting my track rotors on! I'm actually considering just changing out the G-Loc pads each time and saying screw it!
 
 




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