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Tips For Reading Oil Level

Vlad Soare

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Hi guys,

I know how to read the oil level, I've done it hundreds of times before, but somehow I can't seem to do it with the Coyote. I pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean, insert it back, pull it out again, and I'll be damned if I can see where the oil ends. There is definitely oil on the dipstick, but where exactly the line between oil and no oil is... is anyone's guess. I tried in different lights, angled it, wiped it clean again and repeated, but to no avail. The oil is all over the place and doesn't seem to show a hard line.
There must be something about the surface of the dipstick, or its colour, or maybe the shape of the tube (which probably causes the dipstick to collect oil from its walls on its way out), or maybe something else, that gives this effect. My oil being new and still clean doesn't help either.
Does anyone else find the oil level in the Coyote hard to read? And if so, what tricks do you employ? What's the secret?

Thank you.
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FruityJudy

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Check it after it sits all night by pulling it out and reading. No need to pull out, wipe, insert, and reread when its going to be the same
 
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I pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean, insert it back, pull it out again, and I'll be damned if I can see where the oil ends
I usually let the car sit for about 10 minutes before I dip but I can see what you mean by not being able to see where the oil ends, I usually flip the dip stick over and find that it is easier to see where the oil ends on the blank side. The marked side for me is always patchy with oil but the other side is sold.
 

Andy13186

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Pull dipstick out, wipe it off, then put the dipstick all the way in with hashmarks facing toward the engine. Then pull it out and look at it in the sun. Works for me, having the marks facing the engine helps it get a repeatable reading from my experience. I always have it facing that way when I insert it and remove it now.
 

ice445

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It's a lot thicker when it's cold and easier to read. The level will read lower than it actually is by a few mm, but as long as you check in the same manner consistently it doesn't matter. Ideally you want the film to be stretched over the top hole on the range, above the hatching when warm.
 

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Vlad Soare

Vlad Soare

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Thanks, guys.
I did a bit of digging and found out I'm not alone. It seems to be a widespread issue. This video shows an interesting trick. I'll give it a try.




Some also suggested to remove the dipstick and wait for a couple of minutes, to allow the oil on the walls of the tube to drain. This is supposed to prevent the dipstick from collecting extra oil on its way out. Sounds reasonable.

I'll try again and will let you know.
 
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Vlad Soare

Vlad Soare

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Check it after it sits all night by pulling it out and reading. No need to pull out, wipe, insert, and reread when its going to be the same
You were right. After the car sat all night, upon the first removal of the dipstick the oil level was as clear as night and day. Thanks for the tip. :like:
Of course, once I put the dipstick back and repeated the process, I was back where I had started from - oil all over the place, with no clear line on any side. But by then it didn't matter anymore, I had already got what I needed.
 

m3incorp

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I may try this just for the heck of it.

Thanks, guys.
I did a bit of digging and found out I'm not alone. It seems to be a widespread issue. This video shows an interesting trick. I'll give it a try.




Some also suggested to remove the dipstick and wait for a couple of minutes, to allow the oil on the walls of the tube to drain. This is supposed to prevent the dipstick from collecting extra oil on its way out. Sounds reasonable.

I'll try again and will let you know.
 

gadgtfreek

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Check it after it sits all night by pulling it out and reading. No need to pull out, wipe, insert, and reread when its going to be the same
Same.

My previous car, a Honda, had an orange plastic on the end, what a PITA to read fresh oil. My only complaint on the Stang is getting the dipstick in and out dealing with the strut brace lol.
 

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15 minutes after shutdown of a warm engine insert the dipstick until the insertable portion of the plastic handle (1 1/16" long) just touches the dipstick tube. If there's oil on the tip when you pull it out your level is ok. From the tip to hole is about 1". From the tip to the start of the first twist is about 1/4" and the distance between the holes is about 1/2". So if the tip to the first twist is wet the level is ~ in the middle. Doing it this way makes the hash marks irrelevant. I've tried having the hash marks toward the engine and away from the engine when inserting the dipstick. Either way seems to be difficult to get a good reading. The smooth side of the dipstick is easiest to read. Once you use the tip only method to make sure you are between the dots you can then make 2 or 3 readings and check the smooth side between the holes. If I need to add oil I typically only add 4-8 ounces at a time, that way you will never over fill it. With all the advancements that have been made in modern vehicle electronics and sensors I just don't understand why a cheap reliable oil level monitor hasn't been invented and made standard equipment on ICE vehicles, its just mind boggling. Proper oil level is one of the most crucial items to ensure engine longevity and we still use original monitoring, a flexible dipstick and human eyeballs...it's ridiculous.
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