This is a story of a shop that did not have the right tool. Car squeals when turning left now.

[Littleredd]

I'm going to try and be as brief as I can but this was a whole fucking saga with this shitty shop....

I had some parts at the rear installed, but for this story the relevant pieces are Steeda Bumpsteer kit (installed), lowering springs (installed), and 2 sets of front control arms (NOT installed).

Tldr: Shop doesn't have the right tools then tries to charge me more money for work that was not completed. Now the car whines when I turn left.

Me: Good afternoon. I was wondering if you guys had a chance to look at the rear adjustable camber arms to see if they were in good condition sinceI bought it used?

Thanks,
-Littleredd

Shop:
Hello Littleredd,

They look fine but found out after we tried installing one its missing pieces. Attached is a pic of me pointing to it.

Thank you kindly,
"Suspension Shop"

ME:
Ok. Do you know and can get what it needs? If you can't install it then throw it back on the box, I will get on the sellers ass because they are not even Steeda links like I thought I was buying.

-Littleredd

Ok, no problem, I supplied an incomplete part so it's not on them. Turns out the missing part is an offset washer but w/e... Afterwards I found out they WERE Steeda BUT an "old version" I had bought off this forum here!
Lets get to the good stuff...

Shop:
Hello,

We tried looking for it online. Seems like an older version. We also had issues removing the front ball joint. Guys tried forever getting the stock ones out. We have many special tools to get it out. No luck. Steeda instructions online says it's easy, I'm confused. I will get an update tomorrow. Seems like everything else is done. Looks like the part wouldn't do anything anyways.

Me:
Which part wouldn't do anything?

Maybe you guys could give Steeda a call? They have been very responsive and may know what to do.

Shop:
Hello,

Front lower control arm. They tried hammering it exactly how Steeda does it in their install video.

They looked it up online and found a special tool is needed. Tried going to Oreileys and rented some tools different than what we have, still no luck. The ball joint is a lot taller than standard ball joints. Here is the document on the special tool required. https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-3075-F.pdf

Me:
That's disappointing to hear that you don't have the tool.

Forgive me if you've already looked into this, but would this tool from Harbor Freight work?:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

It is listed as in stock at all the stores and you can put the cost on my final price.

Finally, what is the condition of the ball joint in place after the attempts to remove it?

I'm going to include the rep I worked with at Steeda to see if there is something to do.

Shop:
Hello,

We have similar tools at the shop and even rented stuff at O'Reillys. I doubt any damage was done. Obviously Steedas video is cut up. They make it look so easy. Let me know what steeda suggests. We are running out of time. Alignment set for 5pm and he's not available until next week.

Thank you kindly,
"Suspension Shop"

THIS is the tool btw.

Me, after calling Steeda and explaining what is going on...:

I spoke to Brian at Steeda and he said the following:

First, ensure the the wheel assembly is not at "full droop" as that would put tension on the arm or joint. Use a jack and lift the wheel a bit and that should release any tension holding it in place.

The piece is tapered so it only goes out 1 way.

Finally, try to heat and cool the arm, being careful not to get anything else, and knock it "on the knuckle", and the vibration should cause it to release.

I think. He said to 'treat like any other stuck bolt" and it will come out. He is not aware of anyone having this issue or needing the Ford tool and he has learned about full droop the hard way...

I guess if that doesn't work then go ahead and skip it. I'd really like to get it all done at once so I only have to do 1 alignment.

For the rear camber arms, is it possible to fabricate the offset washer? Other than that I will try and return it.

Thank you for your time and effort. I can't wait to see how she turns left and right!

-Littleredd

Shop:
Hello Littleredd,

We do have a torch. We were super worried about ruining it. Fresh new day, we will do our best.

Thank you kindly,
"Suspension Shop"

Next message from the shop:

Shop:
Hello,

Still no good. We are going to harbor freight to try that tool. We are shocked this is so difficult on a new car.

Me:
Lol, yeah, me too.

Again, if it doesn't work then I would like the car to be. Finished tom

At this point, I'm like WTF. The tool is a $230 ball joint separator that is bigger for these Ford ball joints. I don't know dick about most of what he's talking about, or I would have done it myself (and just bought the damn tool!)

Then I receive the following email, emphasis mine:

Hello Littleredd,

harborfreight tool is not tall enough. No good. My alignment guy can not come back tomorrow so we need to align it today and have it ready for you to drive out of here tomorrow. You can also pick it up tonight. Hope you don't mind paying a little extra. We spent a lot of extra time on it and I'd like to pay the guys for their efforts.

I rewrote the following email 3 times to tone down my words...

Whoa man, you took on a job and agreed to install the provided part but could not because you do not have the correct tool. Now you are expecting me to pay extra to not get that part installed that, again, a job you agreed to?

I appreciate and agree that your guys should be compensated for their time, and if you actually installed the part I would be right there with you, but your shop not having the tool is not on me, it's on the shop and your guys need to take that up with you.

How much are you expecting me to pay extra? The tool costs ~$260.

Fuck it, buy the tool (I can send you a link if you need it) and I will pick up the car next week with the part you said you would install installed, and I will pay the full price you quoted me for install.

And his response I received in the parking lot before I walked in the shop to get my car:

We researched the job. There was no special tool mentioned by Steeda. We spent a ton of time on it last night and again today. Took multiple trips trying to find tools to help get it off. Even followed your suggestion and drove to Harbor Freight. We followed Steedas new instructions and no luck. We spent WAAY more than 8 hours on it. Hope you are ok with at least paying the 8 hours I originally quoted. Your used part was not on the original quote. We took off the factory part for nothing and part# 555-4906, the one we spent all the time on was also not on the original quote. The part# 555-4908 was not able to get installed and was on the original quote so hope that all evens out for you. You will have to find a shop that has that special tool or take it to the dealership. I will send over the invoice. We are aligning it now so you can drive it out of here tomorrow.

He's right, the camber arms were a kit, so it had 2 for each side instead of just the one, and the used part was added when I brought in the car and specifically asked him to check over and ensure it was good BEFORE installing. He could have added any of that to the bill when I dropped the car off or sent me an email about the extra control arms that I dropped off. I would have paid him more for both jobs!

I get inside the and he starts telling me that Steeda never says anything about the tool and I shut that down by telling him that it has nothing to do with the provided parts, basic work at a "suspension shop" should be disassembling the GD suspension!

Instead of arguing any more I just wanted to get my car back before he has any other opportunities to touch it. I paid the OG quoted price (~$950) and GTFO.

Turns out they beat the shit out of the front pass knuckle, and god knows what else, and now the car whines when I turn left from that area of the car. It is going into another shop in 2 weeks to get the work completed so I'm hoping that fixes it.

The damage....

Can anyone tell me what they did to cause this?

Here is the whine:

and

Sponsored

 

[Juantrickpony]

Yikes. Peter Gabriel may have bent the brake dust shield which is making contact with the rotor. Hard to tell though. (sledgehammer anyone?)

 

[moffetts]

Sounds like a dust shield. They’re easy to accidentally bend, but equally easy to straighten out. You managed to find the most incompetent “suspension shop” on the face of the earth, though. Me, three friends, and a case of beer did a much, much more professional job on the front control arm and bumpsteer kit install than that.

 

[ice445]

You can take ball joints off with a hammer like that. I have done it many times.

Just never on aluminum. Act like they don’t know autozone rents tools.

Exactly, any competent tech would know you don't hammer on aluminum knuckles/suspension parts for any reason.

If you have enough room (like you do in this case) the two hammers method rarely fails in my experience. You hit the stud on the bottom (with the nut positioned at the base of the stud) and the top of the ball joint at the same time, with about the same force with two hammers. You don't even need that much force to get it to pop out. It's pretty bizarre actually, but some physics magic happens.

Shop owner expecting you to pay for his tech's wasted time on incompetent methods is pretty funny though. I'd personally want to replace those knuckles, who knows what other stupid shit they did. Too much heat can weaken the metal.

 

[CJJon]

Wow...Bet the new shop recommends replacing all that hammered stuff.

I'd be calling the cc company to stop the payment too. They are going to owe you for the replacement work at the very least.

Lessons learned though.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Yeah sounds like it could be the dust shield touching the rotor, just bend it back so it clears enough to shut up. Its easy to do that accidentally, and easy to fix.

 

[Littleredd]

Sounds like a dust shield. They’re easy to accidentally bend, but equally easy to straighten out. You managed to find the most incompetent “suspension shop” on the face of the earth, though. Me, three friends, and a case of beer did a much, much more professional job on the front control arm and bumpsteer kit install than that.

I'll jack it up today and take a look for that, thanks.

 

[kz]

I've done this and ended up buying the tool (I have more ball Ford ball joint to work on in a near future) - hammering with what I thought was acceptable didn't work (even with a dead blow hammer). Obviously none of the rental tools work since the joint is so tall. Most shops will not have it and try to hammer it out...

 

[TeeLew]

I'm having trouble understanding is why the *side* of the upright has been beaten. How is that meant to remove a tapered stud?

 

[NightmareMoon]

I'm having trouble understanding is why the *side* of the upright has been beaten. How is that meant to remove a tapered stud?

Yeah that “technique” is a thing. sometimes when you tap on the side of the tapered seat (after loosening the nut of course) it will pop and come free. I’ve done it before (without marking up or damaging the parts too), but I wouldn’t say I’m proud of it.

 

[TeeLew]

Yeah that “technique” is a thing. sometimes when you tap on the side of the tapered seat (after loosening the nut of course) it will pop and come free. I’ve done it before (without marking up or damaging the parts too), but I wouldn’t say I’m proud of it.

OK, I'll take your word for it, but that's not a technique I've seen. In all fairness, I don't often deal with tapered studs, so there's that.

Even if we accept that this technique is valid, it was clearly done with some sort of steel hammer (probably a 5# maul) instead of a something non-marring (plastic/leather) or at least 'less-marring' like brass. There is absolutely no excuse for level of abuse. If the shop were of a bit more marginal quality, they would have at least covered their tracks with a rattle-can of Rustoleum.

Whoever did this was a straight-up Rock-Ape who should not be allowed around a customer's car with anything more than a microfiber cloth and spray wax.

 

[Rapid Red]

Thayt is going to hurt

OK, I'll take your word for it, but that's not a technique I've seen. In all fairness, I don't often deal with tapered studs, so there's that.

Even if we accept that this technique is valid, it was clearly done with some sort of steel hammer (probably a 5# maul) instead of a something non-marring (plastic/leather) or at least 'less-marring' like brass. There is absolutely no excuse for level of abuse. If the shop were of a bit more marginal quality, they would have at least covered their tracks with a rattle-can of Rustoleum.

Whoever did this was a straight-up Rock-Ape who should not be allowed around a customer's car with anything more than a microfiber cloth and spray wax.

Ever heard of a pickle fork ?

https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_nkw=pickle+fork

 

[ice445]

Thayt is going to hurt



Ever heard of a pickle fork ?

https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_nkw=pickle+fork

Pickle fork is for a ball joint you want to replace, since it's almost always gonna tear the boot lol

 

[TeeLew]

Pickle fork is for a ball joint you want to replace, since it's almost always gonna tear the boot lol

A pickle fork would have been a fine approach.

1. They were replacing the arm anyway.

2. I'll take a torn boot (a $2 Lisle bubble pack fix) on a ball joint over an upright that's been beat to shit any day of the week.

 

[Rapid Red]

Pickle fork is for a ball joint you want to replace, since it's almost always gonna tear the boot lol

No tie rod ends and drag link and yes the boot can be wasted. Ball joints, are factory riveted or screwed in if were replaced.

The pickle fork can also be used to separate the ball joint from the spindle. In order to remove the A frame .

Sponsored