Grimmer
Well-Known Member
I have one of those springs. Works quite well.
The basic premise is that the factory spring is suppose to help you press in the clutch pedal by adding pressure from the spring to the pedal mechanism. There is a cam over point where that spring pushes up on the pedal (instead of down towards the floor) to hold the pedal tightly against the stop when not pressing the clutch pedal. Supposedly to prevent the weight of the pedal (and flop from going over bumps) from slightly pushing down on the hydraulics and potentially engaging the throw out bearing when not touching the pedal with your foot.
My problem was that the assist spring "Cams over" from push down to push up right in the middle of the clutch engagement stroke. Very irritating.
Many people just remove the spring, others are concerned about the potential for the pedal's weight and flop to add unnecessary wear to the throw-out bearing. Additionally, the new tunes that come with the FRPP power packs includes a no-lift shift (as well as stock cars cancelling the cruise control) if the "clutch pedal is not at the top resting place" switch is engaged (from floppy or low hanging pedal?)... this is where the replacement assist spring comes in. It is soft enough to not diddle with the feel of the clutch, but has just enough tension to still press the clutch pedal against the top resting stop.
Works great, isn't very expensive, and is very easy to install. I recommend it, but don't want to start another debate about whether or not it is necessary...that you'll have to decide for yourself based on the above explanation (for what it's worth).
As to the original question about lowering the engagement point... You can accomplish this by loosening the connection between the slave cylinder and the clutch fork. This will require that the pedal be pressed farther down before building pressure on the throw-out bearing. Two issues with this approach. Everything you take away from the top of the clutch pedal stroke is also lost on the bottom of the pedal stroke (the pedal will still hit the floor at the same position), this will result in a less effective break in the transmission of power from the flywheel to the transmission input shaft when the clutch pedal is pressed all the way to the floor. This could result in the clutch discs dragging a bit which will heat them up and wear them out faster when you are holding the clutch pedal to the floor (like at stop lights and in heavy traffic). There is a window of acceptable adjustment, it is your choice how to use it.
The other problem is that the clutch slave cylinder and clutch fork linkage is inside the bell-housing, making it a bugger to access and adjust. However, I have only seen the arrangement on parts-fiche and have not personally attempted to access or adjust, so I might be completely off on that. I would hope they engineered a decent access panel or something. (I was actually looking into replacing the bleeder valve with a speed bleeder, but didn't follow through with it past the image on the parts-fiche).
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It's odd there is that much difference over the years though. I didn't have that problem with the Niche wheels on my old '06.
