The Right Alignment

[NVGT]

Going to install new Steeda progressive lowering springs and new Rohona RFI 20" wheels with Continental EC sports when my 5mm spacers arrive.

What kind of alignment numbers are good for a street driven car, any suggestions?

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[sprayed150]

do you have camber plates?

 

[NVGT]

do you have camber plates?

No camber plates.

I'd like to give the alignment shop some basic ball park numbers.

 

[sprayed150]

without plates you cant adjust camber

well you can use camber bolts, but the right way is to use plates.

Ford did not give a way to adjust camber on a stock car which is why the spec for allowed camber is pretty big. you are stuck with what it is

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-camber-plates-15-16-all-555-8139.html is the way to go

 

[NVGT]

Ok, I understand the camber plates. I just don't want some aggressive inboard tire wear from lowering springs, hopefully it will be fine.

 

[Roadway 5.0]

Click for Eibach Alignment Specs for ProKit

Here’s a good baseline. I’ll back up the above posts that camber plates are a must; I will be getting my hands dirty again adding plates after the fact. I will also replace my cut bumpstops with properly molded pieces.

 

[AZFord]

How far off is the front camber after lowering an inch? Rear?

 

[Nagare]

How far off is the front camber after lowering an inch? Rear?

I'm sure it depends on the install and the shop you get the alignment done at, but my rears are currently at -2.3 and -2.8 instead of -1.6 for both. I've been trying to get in at Steeda but last week the machine was down for 3 hours while I was there and I'm waiting for a call back to schedule this week but I'm sure it'll be pushed even further.

 

[kz]

without plates you cant adjust camber

well you can use camber bolts, but the right way is to use plates.

Ford did not give a way to adjust camber on a stock car which is why the spec for allowed camber is pretty big. you are stuck with what it is

Did you look at the shop manual ? Camber ("service") bolts and slotting the struts...

Why would anyone suggest camber plates for street driven car ?? Normal spec numbers are entirely fine for street, it someone tells he/she needs 3 degrees of a negative camber for street, I'm going to die for the laugh...

 

[Roadway 5.0]

Why would anyone suggest camber plates for street driven car ?? Normal spec numbers are entirely fine for street, it someone tells he/she needs 3 degrees of a negative camber for street, I'm going to die for the laugh...

I’ll argue this point. I’ll be installing camber plates because, after lowering my car, negative camber is beyond what I like to feel especially with high-speed (120mph+) straight line dashes that I very often do. I don’t trust camber bolts at these speeds and I don’t trust them on mountain passes either.

I’m seeking factory-esque alignments specs and reliability. I’ll buy plates.

 

[z06psi]

without plates you cant adjust camber

well you can use camber bolts, but the right way is to use plates.

Ford did not give a way to adjust camber on a stock car which is why the spec for allowed camber is pretty big. you are stuck with what it is

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-camber-plates-15-16-all-555-8139.html is the way to go

I had camber bolts on my old setup, Steeda Sport Progressives and Koni Sports, with zero issues. It aligned and performed just fine.

 

[z06psi]

I’ll argue this point. I’ll be installing camber plates because, after lowering my car, negative camber is beyond what I like to feel especially with high-speed (120mph+) straight line dashes that I very often do. I don’t trust camber bolts at these speeds and I don’t trust them on mountain passes either.

I’m seeking factory-esque alignments specs and reliability. I’ll buy plates.

I had no issues with camber bolts. Hell the place I go them from is a road race vendor.

 

[wildcatgoal]

You don't need camber plates with those springs. A competent shop can slot your strut if you REALLY need camber adjustment up front without any real downside other than it brings the top of the wheel closer to the strut, which probably won't be a problem assuming you have appropriate wheel offsets for the car. And obviously you are "damaging" your strut pickup point by slotting it a little but... it's usually minimal.

I run more camber than you need but I don't daily my Mustang anymore.

http://eibach.com/america/en/eibach-news/ford-mustang-2015-plus-sportline

The above link has "OE alignment" settings listed. What I did when I did daily the Mustang (after track days, so to speak), is return the car closer to OE settings.

Fundamentally, I went with:
Front:
- -.8 to -1 camber (in your case, whatever camber the car settles at is what you'll get unless you do camber plates, camber bolts (ick), or slot the strut. Frankly with the drop on those springs, I would not worry about the camber much. Just worry about toe.
- 1/16 total toe in (keeps the car driving straight on its own just enough)
- Caster can't really be adjusted

Rear:
- -1 to -1.2 rear camber (can be adjusted with factory adjustment)
- 1/16 total toe in (or up to .2)

Toe is what matters most. You're dropping the car enough to be super concerned about camber. Installed a few of these springs and toe is what mattered for their alignments.

 

[NVGT]

You don't need camber plates with those springs. A competent shop can slot your strut if you REALLY need camber adjustment up front without any real downside other than it brings the top of the wheel closer to the strut, which probably won't be a problem assuming you have appropriate wheel offsets for the car. And obviously you are "damaging" your strut pickup point by slotting it a little but... it's usually minimal.

I run more camber than you need but I don't daily my Mustang anymore.

http://eibach.com/america/en/eibach-news/ford-mustang-2015-plus-sportline

The above link has "OE alignment" settings listed. What I did when I did daily the Mustang (after track days, so to speak), is return the car closer to OE settings.

Fundamentally, I went with:
Front:
- -.8 to -1 camber (in your case, whatever camber the car settles at is what you'll get unless you do camber plates, camber bolts (ick), or slot the strut. Frankly with the drop on those springs, I would not worry about the camber much. Just worry about toe.
- 1/16 total toe in (keeps the car driving straight on its own just enough)
- Caster can't really be adjusted

Rear:
- -1 to -1.2 rear camber (can be adjusted with factory adjustment)
- 1/16 total toe in (or up to .2)

Toe is what matters most. You're dropping the car enough to be super concerned about camber. Installed a few of these springs and toe is what mattered for their alignments.

Great thought out post. Thank you!

 

[Eritas]

Street driven car? - factory camber.

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