If you are going to lower it down the road get adjustable endlinks. My endlinks are fine with Steeda Front on full soft but if you want it on more than that the endlinks will not handle it. Also if you are changing the bars think about upgrading the bushings for the bars (my rear brake all the time super annoying and hard to find where I live). Hope this helps.
IMHO the main advantage of aftermarket endlinks is strength, not adjustability, but on a lowered car you'll run the endlinks a bit shorter so the swaybar can ride about where it does on a stock ride-height car. On a stock ride height car you'll just set them to be the same length as the stock endlinks.
Adjustable sway-bars are a great tuning tool; I’ll vouch for them any day of the week. As for installation, they are quite easy, especially the rear, even in a garage with jack-stands. Here’s my notes on the front bar:
So if you drop the car 1” the adjustable end link should be 1” shorter than stock end link? I know that when I lowered my car 1” the stock end links where kind of a bitch to get back into the holes again. I’ve got the adjustable Steeda links on order and want to make sure I install them correctly. Seems that when the suspension is under load the links should be set at a neutral position, meaning no preload on sway bars. Still trying to find a decent video online explaining the proper method of initial set up of the adjustable end links.
well if the car is 1” lower at the hub the swaybar might not be exactly 1” different because of where it sits inboard in the suspension, the drop is likely less. You won’t have preload unless the endlinks (or suspension) are inequal left to right, but the idea is to get the bar to sit at about the same angle as it does on the stock height suspension.