GTP
Deutsche Pony
- Joined
- May 27, 2015
- Threads
- 261
- Messages
- 5,976
- Reaction score
- 3,857
- Location
- Indy
- Website
- www.BambergAudio.com
- First Name
- Philip
- Vehicle(s)
- 2019 GT PP1 A10 Outrageous Orange HPDE mods
- Thread starter
- #1
Here is a technique to press out your own wheel studs using a ball joint press.
I borrowed the ball joint press. (Since I use it at other points on the car I bought one at a special sale price from Harbor Freight.)
I also borrowed and then later purchased a tie rod tool (OEM Saginaw Tie Rod Tool #27289, $6 closeout price from Autozone). The open side of this tool allows it to reach over the flange of the hub. To hold the receiver tool onto the press arm, I bought some hardware locally. The 7/16" x 2-3/4" hex head bolt fits the tie rod tool best, and it is held in place by two large washers, a split washer, and a flanged nut.
Here is the assembly. Notice the flange nut is used backwards as the hex fits down into the tool while the flange is what actually tightens down.
Here is the setup for pressing out a stud. The pry bar offers counter leverage to the ratcheting wrench. I have to hold things still by squatting down and stepping on the press. It's tough sledding at first but then the stud quickly comes out.
I sourced some short pieces of pipe in an attempt to use them as a centering sleeve around the end of the press arbor and stud, but it did not work as well as I hoped. Still, it was helpful.
For installing new studs, I use the Lisle bearing tool. I find I can't fully press in the stud, but if I go as far as possible, I can then finish out when the hub is back on the car.
I borrowed the ball joint press. (Since I use it at other points on the car I bought one at a special sale price from Harbor Freight.)
I also borrowed and then later purchased a tie rod tool (OEM Saginaw Tie Rod Tool #27289, $6 closeout price from Autozone). The open side of this tool allows it to reach over the flange of the hub. To hold the receiver tool onto the press arm, I bought some hardware locally. The 7/16" x 2-3/4" hex head bolt fits the tie rod tool best, and it is held in place by two large washers, a split washer, and a flanged nut.
Here is the assembly. Notice the flange nut is used backwards as the hex fits down into the tool while the flange is what actually tightens down.
Here is the setup for pressing out a stud. The pry bar offers counter leverage to the ratcheting wrench. I have to hold things still by squatting down and stepping on the press. It's tough sledding at first but then the stud quickly comes out.
I sourced some short pieces of pipe in an attempt to use them as a centering sleeve around the end of the press arbor and stud, but it did not work as well as I hoped. Still, it was helpful.
For installing new studs, I use the Lisle bearing tool. I find I can't fully press in the stud, but if I go as far as possible, I can then finish out when the hub is back on the car.
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