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Subwoofer upgrade with BO system

NovaCeine

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Hey guys,

I bought a 2019 Mustang GT a few months back, which has the 12 speaker + woofer BO system, and the lack of bass from the stock subwoofer has been bothering me for a while. Would prefer to install everything by myself, even though I have very limited experience working with audio system, but as an engineer, I believe to be somewhat skilled with my hands :D

Would prefer to have a front-firing enclosure similar to the one attached below, with an upgraded amp also sitting in the enclosure.

What are the advantages and disadvantages of a double 12' vs single 14' subwoofer setup?

Can you guys recommend any good subwoofer + amp combinations, which deliver crystal clear and punchy bass?

Have read a few posts as to where to get the input for the sub. What is the preferred method for a high-quality input? Is any form pre-processing recommended?

My budget is around 3000$.

Looking for ideas and recommendations as to how to best approach this, as well as experiences you guys have had with similar builds.

Cheers

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FreePenguin

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I’d do a high quality 12 fed with power. I am personally running this. It sounds amazing, I actually dialed it back a hair, just so much bass. It’s so clean, extremely clean. The sound quality is wonderful, I started out with a 12 shallow, then went to dual 12’s then ended up with this.

shits expensive but blows my mind how it sounds. Can always return them no questions askedfrom crutchfield. 7.99 return fee

thisgoes for any product from them. I don’t like forward facing subs, it sounds better facing back, and coming back to you. My opinion, but after hearing a ton of set ups, I will never own forward facing subs

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-IqIdrwerDh1/p_13693307/JL-Audio-CS112G-W6v3.html
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https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13698362/JL-Audio-JD500-1.html
 

FreePenguin

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You have a 12 speaker car, you can tap the oem speaker signal for sub. You should have the connectors in trunk but fear not, if not you can tap the amp under driver kick panel. You’ll need molex pos and neg wires w rca end on other side to go onto amp.

you’ll also need to disable factory eq if you have it, cleaner, better audio. You use forscan to do that
 
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NovaCeine

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I’d do a high quality 12 fed with power. I am personally running this. It sounds amazing, I actually dialed it back a hair, just so much bass. It’s so clean, extremely clean. The sound quality is wonderful, I started out with a 12 shallow, then went to dual 12’s then ended up with this.

shits expensive but blows my mind how it sounds. Can always return them no questions askedfrom crutchfield. 7.99 return fee

thisgoes for any product from them. I don’t like forward facing subs, it sounds better facing back, and coming back to you. My opinion, but after hearing a ton of set ups, I will never own forward facing subs

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-IqIdrwerDh1/p_13693307/JL-Audio-CS112G-W6v3.html
+
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13698362/JL-Audio-JD500-1.html
do you think the 500watt rms Amp is enough, or would the sub benefit from a beefier amp?
Literally wanna get the car shaking 😅
 
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NovaCeine

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You have a 12 speaker car, you can tap the oem speaker signal for sub. You should have the connectors in trunk but fear not, if not you can tap the amp under driver kick panel. You’ll need molex pos and neg wires w rca end on other side to go onto amp.

you’ll also need to disable factory eq if you have it, cleaner, better audio. You use forscan to do that
Did you modify anything else except for a new amp, subwoofer and disabled factory eq on your audio system? Was considering to also disable center speaker and potentially get a DSR1 digital processor + mustang harness ( https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/dsr1/ )
 
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FreePenguin

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do you think the 500watt rms Amp is enough, or would the sub benefit from a beefier amp?
Literally wanna get the car shaking 😅
Jl 500 watt amp runs basically 600s in power imo. All mine have been under rated for clean power. My alpines told, 500 watt amps having birth sheets of like 590 etc. but jl Has auto clipping detector for setting gain too. I backed it off a bit more even because I wanted some music with my bass lmao.

but serious, it’s killer. The sub is rated to600 rms, so the amp and sub are perfect to me.

there’s a couple here using same amp and sub. I can take a photo for ya. One guy has his standing up and I have mine on its side lol
 

FreePenguin

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Did you modify anything else except for a new amp, subwoofer and disabled factory eq on your audio system? Was considering to also disable centre speaker and potentially get a DSR1 digital processor + mustang harness ( https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/dsr1/ )
All I did was disable factory eq, I pulled the pin out of the amp connector for center speaker.
Disable eq first using forscan, so that just to see how it sounds

it’s cheap. 20 bucks for cord, free program. And you can change a lot of things too that you may want to do w the car

I will let others chime in. I’m on a 4 inch phone typing all this
 

B-Mitch

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I am currently in the middle of a custom install in my '21 with the B&O. I made that temp box to check how the JL 12w7 sounds in a 1.375 cubic foot sealed enclosure off my JL HD1200. It sounds clean and gets very loud. I just used the 2 sets of high level leads going into the stock DVC sub. I ran those into an LC2i and ran 4ga power/ground. I haven't messed with disabling any factory equalization and it already sounds amazing. I'd go ported with a 12w6v3 or if you go 12w7 you could easily get away with sealed. Sealed will save more trunk space, if you care.
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m3incorp

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I have the same subwoofer and can agree with everything said....I tried two others before settling on this one.


I’d do a high quality 12 fed with power. I am personally running this. It sounds amazing, I actually dialed it back a hair, just so much bass. It’s so clean, extremely clean. The sound quality is wonderful, I started out with a 12 shallow, then went to dual 12’s then ended up with this.

shits expensive but blows my mind how it sounds. Can always return them no questions askedfrom crutchfield. 7.99 return fee

thisgoes for any product from them. I don’t like forward facing subs, it sounds better facing back, and coming back to you. My opinion, but after hearing a ton of set ups, I will never own forward facing subs

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-IqIdrwerDh1/p_13693307/JL-Audio-CS112G-W6v3.html
+
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13698362/JL-Audio-JD500-1.html
 

gpierce

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I put a dayton 10" 4 ohm DVC in the factory sub enclosure with a Fosgate 500 watt mono amp, wired it for 2ohm. Output from the factory sub wires directly to the amps high level input. No disabling factory EQ or any other mods. I have to leave the gain on the amp at about a quarter that thing F$%^ng rocks and shakes my car like you wouldn't believe. So, a couple 12s in a box are going to make the whole neighborhood rattle:)
 

m3incorp

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I also didn't disable any of the factory settings and get great sound. I have the sealed JL 12w6 and it gets plenty loud; this is coming from a guy that always ran ported for the loudness. Keep in mind, going ported does get loud but eats up a lot more trunk space, which there is not much to begin with. Your 12w7 is going to hit hard in both a ported and sealed enclosure.

I am currently in the middle of a custom install in my '21 with the B&O. I made that temp box to check how the JL 12w7 sounds in a 1.375 cubic foot sealed enclosure off my JL HD1200. It sounds clean and gets very loud. I just used the 2 sets of high level leads going into the stock DVC sub. I ran those into an LC2i and ran 4ga power/ground. I haven't messed with disabling any factory equalization and it already sounds amazing. I'd go ported with a 12w6v3 or if you go 12w7 you could easily get away with sealed. Sealed will save more trunk space, if you care.
received_994119351361943.jpeg
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